Recent Stories: Food

Isabel Carmichael
August 10, 2017
Imagine a farm that starts at 85 feet across, narrows to 50 feet, and goes back far enough to fill a total of 1.4 acres. Sort of like an extra-skinny railroad flat in New York City, or a much attenuated flag-lot oasis.

Imagine a farm that starts at 85 feet across, narrows to 50 feet, and goes back far enough to fill a total of 1.4 acres. Sort of like an extra-skinny railroad flat in New York City, or a much attenuated flag-lot oasis. 

That is what Darryl and Pamela Glennon’s Spring Close Farms Nursery and Farm Stand in East Hampton is like. At the front, just inside the fence from a shaded parking area, is a koi pond, then the farm stand itself, where the couple sell all sorts of things they grow in their long ribbon, some in large containers and pots, some in hay bales and straw bales, and then, at the back, fields.

Joanne Pilgrim
August 10, 2017
Fresh local oysters will be served paired with wine during a tour of the shellfish hatcheries at the Suffolk County Marine Environmental Learning Center in Southold on Friday, Aug. 18, from 6 to 8 p.m. The Slow Food East End chapter has a potluck dinner planned for next Thursday at Myron and Susan Levine’s residence in Sag Harbor. Reservations are required and can be made at slowfoodeastend.org

The Slow Food East End chapter has a potluck dinner planned for next Thursday at Myron and Susan Levine’s residence in Sag Harbor. Reservations are required and can be made at slowfoodeastend.org. The event is open to both members and nonmembers, with a $15 or $20 per person fee, respectively. Attendees are also expected to provide a dish made from seasonal local ingredients and large enough to serve six to eight people. Additional details are avail­­able on the website. 

Taylor K. Vecsey
August 10, 2017
SagTown Coffee reopened on Main Street this week, bigger and better than before the fire that destroyed it and several other businesses, including the Sag Harbor Cinema, nearly eight months ago.

SagTown Coffee reopened on Main Street this week, bigger and better than before the fire that destroyed it and several other businesses, including the Sag Harbor Cinema, nearly eight months ago.

 “We did it,” said Shane Dyckman, who started the business in 2012. He quietly opened its doors over the weekend. “We finished construction at midnight on Friday and opened Saturday at 6.”

Mr. Dyckman, a volunteer with the Sag Harbor Fire Department, was among those who responded on the morning of Dec. 16, when a fire broke out in the building next door to his coffee shop. While the building was not destroyed, his shop was so damaged that it had to be gutted.

Laura Donnelly
August 3, 2017
Everything about our recent meal at Elaia Estiatorio in Bridgehampton was a delight. From the simple but elegant renovation of the space at 95 School Street to the food to the dinnerware to the friendly staff, the evening was everything one could hope for.

Elaia Estiatorio
95 School Street
Bridgehampton
631-613-6469
Dinner nightly, closed Mondays

Everything about our recent meal at Elaia Estiatorio in Bridgehampton was a delight. From the simple but elegant renovation of the space at 95 School Street to the food to the dinnerware to the friendly staff, the evening was everything one could hope for.

Virginia Breen
August 3, 2017
The families of the Organic Krush founders — Fran Paniccia, James Tchinnis, and Michelle Walrath — have played an important role in what they do and the food they offer at their shops in Woodbury, Lake Success, and now Amagansett.

The families of the Organic Krush founders — Fran Paniccia, James Tchinnis, and Michelle Walrath — have played an important role in what they do and the food they offer at their shops in Woodbury, Lake Success, and now Amagansett.

Joanne Pilgrim
August 3, 2017
Susan and Myron Levine of Sag Harbor will host a Slow Food East End potluck at their house on Aug. 17 from 6 to 8 p.m. Reservations are being taken online at slowfoodeastend.org. Karen Lee, a New York City caterer and cookbook author, will offer two cooking classes in Amagansett this month focusing on using organic and/or local ingredients to make tasty and healthful meals.

Andy Harris and Sally Richardson of Montauk, the owners of the Stonecrop vineyard in Martinborough, New Zealand, will be pouring tastes of the three wines they produce at Domaine Franey Wines and Spirits on Pantigo Road in East Hampton on Saturday from 4 to 7 p.m. Visitors may sample Stonecrop rosé, sauvignon blanc, and pinot noir.

 

Karen Lee Classes

Karen Lee, a New York City caterer and cookbook author, will offer two cooking classes in Amagansett this month focusing on using organic and/or local ingredients to make tasty and healthful meals.

Joanne Pilgrim
July 27, 2017
Share the Harvest Farm in East Hampton will hold its eighth annual sunset barbecue in its farm fields at the East End Community Organic Farm on Long Lane in East Hampton next Thursday from 5 to 8 p.m. A star lineup of chefs will be preparing dishes for the Hayground Chefs Dinner on Sunday at the Hayground School in Bridgehampton. Among the local participants are Claudia Fleming of the North Fork Table and Inn, Josh Capon of Lure Fishbar, Jason Weiner of Almond, and Christian Mir of the Stone Creek Inn.

A rum tasting from 1 to 4 p.m. on Saturday at the Lobster Roll restaurant on Napeague will feature a chance to try Montauk Rum Runners varieties  including coconut-flavored rum, citrus-flavored gin, and honey-flavored whiskey. The spirits can be sipped alone, or savored in cocktails that the Lobster Roll makes using them, including pina coladas, gin and tonics, and Bloody Marys.

 

Hayground Chefs Dinner

A star lineup of chefs will be preparing dishes for the Hayground Chefs Dinner on Sunday at the Hayground School in Bridgehampton. Among the local participants are Claudia Fleming of the North Fork Table and Inn, Josh Capon of Lure Fishbar, Jason Weiner of Almond, and Christian Mir of the Stone Creek Inn.

Mark Segal
July 27, 2017
The East Hampton Library’s Tom Twomey Lecture Series brought together three leading local winemakers to talk about the region's wines.

“He was a bold man that first ate an oyster,” wrote Jonathan Swift, just as it was a brave couple that first tried to turn a Long Island potato field into a vineyard. Alex and Louisa Hargrave, neither of whom had ever grown grapes or made wine, bought a farm in Cutchogue in 1973, and in so doing they launched what has become the Long Island Viticultural Area, now home to some 60 wineries and vineyards.

Laura Donnelly
July 27, 2017
Corn is one of our most precious and plentiful summer treats. Steamed corn on the cob with some good butter slathered all over it is something we look forward to all year, along with that perfectly simple beefsteak tomato sandwich on white bread with mayo.

Corn is one of our most precious and plentiful summer treats. Steamed corn on the cob with some good butter slathered all over it is something we look forward to all year, along with that perfectly simple beefsteak tomato sandwich on white bread with mayo.

If straight-up corn on the cob is the Doris Day of summer side dishes, simple and lovely, then Thai corn cakes, Indonesian fritters (dadar jagung), chow-chow, and Mexican street corn are the fiery starlets that steal the show. Isn’t it time you tried some more exotic and unusual methods of serving this most favorite of summer staples?

Joanne Pilgrim
July 20, 2017
Breakfast is the thing at Sugar, a new eatery in Montauk, which has design-your-own bowls of cereal and fresh-made donuts daily, as well as sundaes and milkshakes. It is open daily from 8 a.m. to 9 p.m. and is downtown on South Edison Street. Dan’s GrillHampton, a cooking competition and tasting event at which eight East End chefs will compete against eight chefs from Manhattan, will take place tomorrow night at the Fairview Farm at Mecox in Bridgehampton.

Dan’s GrillHampton,  a cooking competition and tasting event at which eight East End chefs will compete against eight chefs from Manhattan, will take place tomorrow night at the Fairview Farm at Mecox in Bridgehampton. Grilled fare, beer, and specialty cocktails will be served under a tent overlooking Mecox Bay, with early access for V.I.P.s beginning at 7 p.m., for $195, and the general admission event, for $140, occurring from 8 to 10:30 p.m. The evening will be hosted by Robert Irvine, a celebrity chef and owner of Robert Irvine’s Public House at the Tropicana in Las Vegas, and founder of the Robert Irvine Foundation. 

Laura Donnelly
July 20, 2017
Anybody who’s ever made a pie knows they’re not that easy. Making a good piecrust can be a delicate and somewhat complicated process. If you overmix or add too much water, you may end up with a tough one. Even the humidity in the air can wreak havoc with your efforts. Getting the bottom crust to bake thoroughly without burning the rim is nerve-wracking. Choosing what kind of fruit filling can also lead to mistakes: Do you add cornstarch or flour to bind it? How much? You may end up with a runny mess, a glutinous one, or a dry-as-a-bone one.

Anybody who’s ever made a pie knows they’re not that easy. Making a good piecrust can be a delicate and somewhat complicated process. If you overmix or add too much water, you may end up with a tough one. Even the humidity in the air can wreak havoc with your efforts. Getting the bottom crust to bake thoroughly without burning the rim is nerve-wracking. Choosing what kind of fruit filling can also lead to mistakes: Do you add cornstarch or flour to bind it? How much? You may end up with a runny mess, a glutinous one, or a dry-as-a-bone one. Making a pie takes hours, and when you take into account the cost of good, local fruits and berries, it can also be an expensive endeavor.

Joanne Pilgrim
July 13, 2017
The Ludlow family of Water Mill will have a grand opening of the Farm Store at Mecox Bay Dairy on Sunday from noon to 3 p.m. featuring a barbecue, tastings of the dairy’s cheeses, and farm tours. Tickets are on sale for a Taste of Montauk, a smorgasbord of the hamlet’s culinary offerings to be presented at the Montauk Yacht Club alongside Lake Montauk on July 23 from 6 to 9 p.m.

The pastry chef at Townline BBQ in Sagaponack, Rachel Flatley, is making homemade ice cream pops this summer. Each features homemade ice cream and embellishments; the varieties include strawberry fluff, vanilla, and chocolate. The bars are $5 each. 

Taste of Montauk

Laura Donnelly
July 13, 2017
If bluefish are the Rodney Dangerfields of the fish world (“don’t get no respect”), then surely porgies are the juvenile delinquents. They are tough little fellas — thick-skinned, bony, and travel in gangs. But once you get past that “rebel without a cause” exterior, they are sweet and worthwhile.

If bluefish are the Rodney Dangerfields of the fish world (“don’t get no respect”), then surely porgies are the juvenile delinquents. They are tough little fellas — thick-skinned, bony, and travel in gangs. But once you get past that “rebel without a cause” exterior, they are sweet and worthwhile.

Laura Donnelly
July 6, 2017
We knew going to Duryea’s Lobster Deck on the Sunday night of July Fourth weekend could be a freakout. Navigating the half-naked human traffic by the Surf Lodge was an exercise better suited for the driving skills of Juan Manuel Fangio, arguably the greatest Formula One driver in history.

Duryea’s Lobster Deck
65 Tuthill Road
Montauk
631-668-2410
Daily, noon-10:30 p.m.

We knew going to Duryea’s Lobster Deck on the Sunday night of July Fourth weekend could be a freakout. Navigating the half-naked human traffic by the Surf Lodge was an exercise better suited for the driving skills of Juan Manuel Fangio, arguably the greatest Formula One driver in history.

My guests’ only experience of Montauk up to this point was a breakfast at Anthony’s Pancake House, which we all agreed was a delight because they serve scrapple, I had been to the old Duryea’s a few times and found it to be okay: simple fare, B.Y.O.B., enjoy the view of Fort Pond Bay at sunset.

Joanne Pilgrim
July 6, 2017
Four Long Island restaurateurs will be on the panel at the next “Out of the Question” discussion at the Southampton Arts Center, hosted by Warren Strugatch next Thursday at 7 p.m. A potluck dinner will be held tonight at the Peconic Land Trust’s Bridge Gardens in Bridgehampton from 5 to 8 p.m. in conjunction with Slow Food East End.

A potluck dinner will be held tonight at the Peconic Land Trust’s Bridge Gardens in Bridgehampton from 5 to 8 p.m. in conjunction with Slow Food East End. Besides the meal, the evening will feature a guided walk through the property’s edible landscape with Rick Bogusch, the garden manager. Reservations are required through SlowFoodEastEnd.org as space is limited. The cost is $20 per person or $15 for Slow Food and Bridge Gardens members. Attendees must also take a homemade appetizer or dessert made with local ingredients to share. In case of rain, the potluck will be held next Thursday. 

 

On Winemaking

Christopher Walsh
July 6, 2017
Eighty-three years after opening as the Jungle Inn, a Fort Pond Boulevard watering hole in Springs is once again a restaurant, a place to hear live music, and a community hub.

Eighty-three years after opening as the Jungle Inn, a Fort Pond Boulevard watering hole in Springs is once again a restaurant, a place to hear live music, and a community hub.

The Springs Tavern opened on March 30, succeeding Wolfie’s, an entrenched restaurant and bar for almost 30 years, from 1988 until its closing last year. Substantial renovation has yielded a brighter, airy atmosphere and the menu is reasonably priced, attracting a new, fast-growing clientele, fueled mostly by word of mouth, according to the owners, Dan and Charlotte DeSmet. While mounted flat-screen televisions are a nod to current times, the restaurant recalls an earlier, pre-Wolfie’s era.

Laura Donnelly
June 29, 2017
Let’s begin with the good news: The food at Le Bilboquet in Sag Harbor is excellent. Now permit me to regale you with the gauntlet we had to run to get into the place.

Le Bilboquet
1 Long Wharf
Sag Harbor
631-808-3767 
Dinner seven days

Let’s begin with the good news: The food at Le Bilboquet in Sag Harbor is excellent. Now permit me to regale you with the gauntlet we had to run to get into the place. 

Joanne Pilgrim
June 29, 2017
Rick’s Crabby Cowboy Cafe in Montauk is now open daily for lunch and dinner. The restaurant has added a sushi bar, where the chef will be making platters featuring three, six, or nine rolls from the menu, which includes a choice of 10 local sushi selections. Eric and Adam Miller, the father and son behind Bay Kitchen Bar on Three Mile Harbor in East Hampton, have opened a new restaurant, Flagship, on the docks in Montauk. The menu features local seafood, meat, and poultry entrees, small plates to share, crudos, and raw bar items, and there is a seasonal cocktail menu.

Eric and Adam Miller, the father and son behind Bay Kitchen Bar on Three Mile Harbor in East Hampton, have opened a new restaurant, Flagship, on the docks in Montauk. The menu features local seafood, meat, and poultry entrees, small plates to share, crudos, and raw bar items, and there is a seasonal cocktail menu. Sample dishes include fluke and charred squid crudo with passion fruit, crusted yellowfin tuna with roasted carrots, soba noodles and dashi broth, smoked pork ribs with sweet potato and a honey glaze, and a burger featuring smoked bacon, crispy shallots, and a fried duck egg. 

Joanne Pilgrim
June 22, 2017
Slow Food East End is gearing up for a summertime potluck on July 6 at Bridge Gardens in Bridgehampton. Reservations are being taken online for the event: slowfoodeastend.org. Peter Gethers, the author of “My Mother’s Kitchen: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner and the Meaning of Life,” in which he describes his effort to give his aging mother, the daughter of a renowned restaurateur and a friend and mentor to famous chefs, the final gift of a feast featuring all her favorite foods, will be at the Sylvester & Co. store in Sag Harbor on Saturday from 5 to 7 p.m. for a book signing and cocktail party.

The Harbor Grill in East Hampton served its last meal yesterday; its owners announced last week that they could no longer afford to keep the doors open. Increased costs, they said, have made it impossible to maintain the restaurant, which was designed to be an affordable eatery to serve the year-round community. The Harbor Grill’s sister restaurant, the seasonal Harbor Bistro, which is on Three Mile Harbor, will continue to operate.

 

Garden Potluck

Laura Donnelly
June 22, 2017
Summer is upon us, so now it is time to think about salads and grilling, which means it’s also time to think about oils — olive for salads, peanut for frying up those zucchini blossoms and chips, flavored oils for marinades, etc.

Summer is upon us, so now it is time to think about salads and grilling, which means it’s also time to think about oils — olive for salads, peanut for frying up those zucchini blossoms and chips, flavored oils for marinades, etc.

Information about which oils are the most healthful is constantly changing. Have you hopped on the coconut oil bandwagon? Not me. As far as I’m concerned, it’s fine product to put on your body, not in it. For accurate and up-to-date information about coconut oil, you should consult the most recent studies by the American Heart Association and the Mayo Clinic. Nuff said.

Laura Donnelly
June 15, 2017
It shouldn’t have come as a surprise that dining at the new Cove Hollow Tavern, in its infancy at the time of our visit, was a seamless, professional, and delicious experience. The reason it shouldn’t have been a surprise is that this new restaurant in East Hampton is brought to you by the fine folks of Vine Street Cafe on Shelter Island.

Cove Hollow Tavern
85 Montauk Highway
East Hampton
631-527-7131
Dinner Thursday through Monday

It shouldn’t have come as a surprise that dining at the new Cove Hollow Tavern, in its infancy at the time of our visit, was a seamless, professional, and delicious experience. The reason it shouldn’t have been a surprise is that this new restaurant in East Hampton is brought to you by the fine folks of Vine Street Cafe on Shelter Island.

Joanne Pilgrim
June 15, 2017
Tuesday night is now country night at the Springs Tavern. Besides a light bar menu, with $5 hot dogs, pizza slices, and more, there will be live music by the Spaghetti Westerners at 9 p.m. The Bridgehampton Inn will serve small bites, wine, and beer at a reception this evening from 5 to 7 to celebrate “Sea Rakes,” an exhibit of photographs by Lindsay Morris that will be on view throughout the summer.

Amagansett Less Marvelous

After 15 years in business, the Mary’s Marvelous store in Amagansett has closed. Mary Schoenlein, the owner of the shop and another in East Hampton, announced the intention to close the store some time ago, and it was shuttered this week. In a note to customers, Ms. Schoenlein thanked them for their support and said it was with “sadness and regret” that she and her staff were leaving Amagansett. The shop, which serves prepared foods, pastries, takeout sandwiches, salads, and more, coffee and tea, etc., will continue to do business on Newtown Lane in East Hampton.

 

At East Hampton Point

Joanne Pilgrim
June 8, 2017
Ice cream lovers should head down to Smokin’ Wolf, the takeout barbecue shop on Pantigo Road in East Hampton. The shop has reopened its ice cream freezer for the summer. The folks from the White Room Gallery in Bridgehampton have opened the Squeezery, a juice and coffee bar by day and bar bar by night, on Amagansett’s Main Street.

The Oreya restaurant has reopened at the Capri hotel in Southampton and is now accompanied by the Oreya Lounge. The restaurant, overseen by Greg Grossman, its chef and owner, serves a Med­iterranean-inspired menu and has been redesigned, with the inclusion of the outdoor lounge, cocktail bar, and pool. New dishes on the menu this year include sumac-cured hamachi crudo, wood-fired lamb tenderloin, foie gras hummus, and beet salt-baked red snapper.

 

At the Maidstone

Laura Donnelly
June 8, 2017
Yes, Virginia, there is a Santa Claus. Thanks to the generosity, wisdom, and hard work of Margaret de Cuevas, the Peconic Land Trust, and those coolest-of-cool “lady farmers” Amanda Merrow and Katie Baldwin, the former Amagansett Farmers Market has reopened as Amber Waves Farm Market, and the gals now own the nine acres behind it.

Amber Waves Farm Market
367 Main Street, Amagansett
Open seven days, 7 a.m. to 7 p.m.

Yes, Virginia, there is a Santa Claus. Thanks to the generosity, wisdom, and hard work of Margaret de Cuevas, the Peconic Land Trust, and those coolest-of-cool “lady farmers” Amanda Merrow and Katie Baldwin, the former Amagansett Farmers Market has reopened as Amber Waves Farm Market, and the gals now own the nine acres behind it.