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  • Sometimes reviewing restaurants is fun and swell and delicious and sometimes it is a chore and a bore and requires a good supply of Bromo-Seltzer. (That’s old-school lingo for antacids.) Reviewing restaurants when our season is in full cry requires the driving skills of Mario Andretti, the military acumen of Gen. George Patton, and the stamina of an illegally fortified Lance Armstrong.
  • You can find great recipes for ratatouille, caponata, and eggplant Parmesan in any good cookbook. These are great for combining all the vegetables that are plentiful right now — eggplant, tomatoes, zucchini, etc. But let’s get off the leash for a change and try some more exotic possibilities for this versatile vegetable. This first recipe is from Kylie Kwong’s “Simple Chinese Cooking.”
  • When eggplants were taken from India to England long ago, they were considered an ornamental plant. They are the only major vegetable of the nightshade family (tomatoes, squash, tobacco, peppers, potatoes) that came from the Old World. According to Harold McGee in his book “On Food and Cooking: The Science and Lore of the Kitchen,” “an early ancestor may have floated from Africa to India or Southeast Asia where it was domesticated.” Eggplant was being eaten in Italy by the 15th century and in France by the 18th.
  • First of all, I have to tell you I am not a food snob. I am not even a gourmet, more like a gourmand. I enjoy a chile con queso made with Velveeta “cheese” as much as fresh sea urchin gonads. Yes, uni are gonads, not roe. That being said, we approached Grey Lady East in Montauk with open minds and hearty appetites.
  • This review is dedicated to Freddy the fly, the musca domestica, who died valiantly trying to escape from the glutinous, candied apple syrup of our “hot and numbing crispy beef.” Sorry, Freddy, there was no escape from that quicksand of a sauce.
  • Although I am eagerly awaiting the arrival of big fat beefsteak tomatoes and sweet white corn at the farm stands, there are plenty of interesting fruits and vegetables available right now. Actually, tomatoes and corn are starting to come in from the North Fork, so have at it. You know what to do with them.
  • Cook Them While You Can
  • The Hamptons Greek Festival was held last weekend in Southampton at the Greek Orthodox Church of the Hamptons.
  • These recipes are from Maria Loi and Sarah Toland’s “The Greek Diet.” The beet dip is delicious with toasted whole grain pita chips or zucchini croquettes.
  • There is a time and a place for everything, and maybe this just wasn’t the year for the upscale, Upper East Side, jet set boîte Le Bilboquet to open on Long Wharf in Sag Harbor. No offense to the ladies who lunch, but if we have an urge for saumon au fumé avec avocat or terrine de foie gras maison, we can waddle in our Ferragamos over to the American Hotel.

Blogs by this author:

  • The following is excerpted from Laura Donnelly's restaurant review in this week's Star. More ideas for meals on the go can be found in the Star's Restaurant Guide:

    It's Columbus Day weekend AND the Hamptons International Film Festival is on the East End so I know all of you ladies and gentlemen and black-clad cinephiles want to know where to eat. With movies being shown in 6 locations from Southampton to Montauk your dining options are plentiful.