In the 1830s, when the temperance movement was flourishing in America, fanatic teetotalers took up axes and flailed away at whole orchards of apple trees. With no thought for the delights of warm apple pie or syrupy baked apples or roast pork with applesauce, they were bent on eliminating the evil of hard cider.
Each village out here has its reliable, diner-like breakfast and lunch joints. Southampton has Sip ’n’ Soda, Bridgehampton has the Candy Kitchen, and Montauk has John’s Pancake House. But none of them comes close to the friendly and bustling Fairway restaurant at the Poxabogue Golf Center in Sagaponack. An institution for over 20 years, it was recently, temporarily (and almost permanently) lost. I’ll spare you the details of the saga, but it involved money and mildew.