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Articles by this author:

  • Would it be all Rachel Dolezal of me to write about African-American chefs and cooks? Every year during Black History Month it seems there are no books, articles, shows, movies, anything, about the contribution of black chefs throughout our history. There should be a museum, a comprehensive historical compendium, something. Having previously dedicated a whole column to my idol, Edna Lewis, her “Taste of Country Cooking” and numerous accomplishments, it’s time to focus on some other significant African-Americans who have contributed greatly to the cuisine of our country. It is a fact that every president who has lived and worked in the White House was cooked for and served by African-Americans. There was a brief blip on the radar, of Jackie Kennedy firing the kitchen staff and bringing in all French chefs, but this changed back immediately when Lyndon Johnson became president. He brought along with him Zephyr Wright, who cooked for his family from 1942 to 1969. He consulted her on th
  • Patrick Clark’s Horseradish-Crusted Halibut
  • Nancy Hollister, the co-owner and chef of Breadzilla (now in its 20th year!), is self-taught. She and her business partner and ex-husband, Brad Thompson, used to be marine biologists. They work side by side at Breadzilla, where he does the baking, and are the best of friends.
  • In the interest of full disclosure, I must confess that I have been to the Highway restaurant and bar’s Thursday Thai night three weeks in a row. It is that good.
  • I love Super Bowl parties! The Super Bowl is a day of lager and shouting, gorging and gambling. There are Vegas-worthy halftime shows, and it’s an excuse to eat tiny, deep fried bird-meat parts swathed in muy picoso sauce and celery splinters sidecar-ed with blue cheese dip. I dust off my block of Velveeta cheese (Have you ever noticed it doesn’t require refrigeration?!) and make chile con queso dip.
  • Root for the Food
  • But how does it taste? I know that’s the number-one question on your mind about the new, history-in-the-making, right here on Long Island, this-recipe-was-formulated-by-the God-of-all-fish-cookery-Eric Ripert(!), etc., etc. Dock to Dish Montauk Fishburger introduced at the Bridgehampton School on Friday. Well, you’ll just have to wait a few paragraphs.
  • This is the local adaptation of Eric Ripert’s fish burger recipe, as served at the Bridgehampton School on Friday, made not only with fish landed locally, but with mostly locally grown and produced ingredients.
  • If you have ever been to Il Monastero (R.I.P.) in East Hampton, or Il Capuccino in Sag Harbor, or had a sandwich from Espresso or pasta from Cappelletti on Noyac Road, you have had food made by the Tagliasacchi family. If you haven’t, then you live under a rock and you are missing the best garlic knots, focaccia sandwiches, and their delicious, mysterious dressing “like Caesar without the anchovies,” which could keep a swarm of vampires at bay for centuries. If I were to try to explain the restaurant/Italian deli empire and experience and background of this family, it would take up this entire review. In a nutshell, Luigi Tagliasacchi and his wife, Robin, now own and operate Cappelletti, serving all these iconic gems and more.
  • I have been curious about gluten-free pastas for quite a while, so I conducted a completely scientific taste test in my meticulously organized, pristine kitchen lab. Hah!

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  • The following is excerpted from Laura Donnelly's restaurant review in this week's Star. More ideas for meals on the go can be found in the Star's Restaurant Guide: easthamptonstar.com/restaurants.

    It's Columbus Day weekend AND the Hamptons International Film Festival is on the East End so I know all of you ladies and gentlemen and black-clad cinephiles want to know where to eat. With movies being shown in 6 locations from Southampton to Montauk your dining options are plentiful.