Covered-dish parties, one of East Hampton’s more venerable social institutions, are meant to provide tasty surprises. The hit of one several years ago was Picadillo, a dish provided by a participant born in Cuba. I have been making it ever since.

The cultivated apricot has about the shortest seasons of any fruit. In the colder seasons, the intensified flavor of jams, preserves or the dried fruit is always on hand to enhance pastry, mousses, and bavarians. One delightfully refreshing preparation is apricot sherbet, offering a bright finale to a hearty dinner.