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Nature Notes: Shifting Sands, Lands

Nature Notes: Shifting Sands, Lands

At some point, the inlet to Northwest Creek from Northwest Harbor was arbitrarily moved from the east side to the west, so it now hugs Barcelona Neck.
At some point, the inlet to Northwest Creek from Northwest Harbor was arbitrarily moved from the east side to the west, so it now hugs Barcelona Neck.
Matthew Charron
Some popularly known local spots didn’t exist three centuries ago
By
Larry Penny

The recent to-do about Cartwright Island raises some interesting questions. We are sometimes prone to think of the present as the past, East Hampton today has always been, Southampton has always been, Lake Montauk has always been the way it is, etc., etc., etc. But in fact things, including our local landmasses and their surrounding waters, are fluxing every minute, during the day when we can see the change and at night when most of us are sleeping. So it is with the contours of the South Fork’s north and south coastlines. On land, the high points are slowly wearing down or accreting from material settling in from the atmosphere. On a larger scale, Long Island is attached to the rest of New York, and all of New York and the rest of the United States are very slowly moving westerly, away from the mid-Atlantic rift.

Much of our land after purchase from the Native Americans was deeded out to the original settlers and their kin. The names Russel’s Neck and Jessup’s Neck refer to two longstanding peninsulas jutting out into the Peconic Estuary in East Hampton and Noyac, now popularly referred to as Barcelona Neck and the Elizabeth Morton National Wildlife Refuge. The names of geographic points of interest didn’t necessarily change with new ownership. If so, Barcelona would have deferred to the name Heller’s Point after Ben Heller, the last owner before New York State purchased it.

It is very interesting examining the old maps of eastern Long Island in my possession, some of which go back to 1838, when the U.S. Coast Survey teams were busy mapping America’s coasts, and are signed by a senior surveyor to further authenticate them. The last named federal authority morphed into U.S. Coast and Geodetic Survey, which continued the mapping and setting of federal monuments, many originals of which still exist today. These old maps and the later ones produced by the U.S. Geological Survey are extremely valuable in plotting changes in our landscape and seascape over the past 200 years or so.

Some popularly known local spots didn’t exist three centuries ago. For example, there is a 1787 map of the north coast of the Napeague isthmus that shows Napeague Bay without its Hicks Island. Obviously, sand building to the west from Goff Point and sand moving east from Promised Land had something to do with its formation during the 1800s. After the little island’s formation, inlets were created by floodwater breakthroughs, such that Napeague Harbor became partially separated from Napeague Bay. For a long time the island was a peninsula attached to Lazy Point, and stably so, to the degree that a fish-rendering factory was built on it, a remnant of which is still evident. The 1938 Hurricane came along and broke through such that the west inlet was recreated, and the harbor then had two inlets for the next 70 years or so. For the last eight years or so, the east inlet has been blocked with sand. Only the west inlet remains and was re-dredged by Suffolk County in 2014.

If we add little Hog Creek harbor to the list, Napeague Harbor is one of six East Hampton Town harbors from Northwest Creek on the west to Lake Montauk on the east that open to the Peconic Estuary. Three Mile Harbor, which sits to the east of Northwest Harbor and opens into Gardiner’s Bay, is the only one with an inlet that hasn’t changed since recorded history. The inlet to Northwest Creek from Northwest Harbor was arbitrarily moved from the east side to the west, so it now hugs Barcelona.

The inlet to Accabonac Harbor was recreated such that Louse Point was lengthened, and Gerard Point was shortened. The movement to the north was then accented and further stabilized with a rock jetty built out into the bay at the shortened point. 

Lake Montauk, once the largest freshwater pond on the whole of Long Island, was inletted to Block Island Sound in the mid-1920s and then stabilized with a rock revetment on either side shortly after. As a result, the east side, or Gin Beach side, has built out as the east jetty trapped sand flowing to the west from the north side of Montauk, while the west side has retreated as much as 350 feet to the south, according to a U.S. Geodetic Survey map published in the 1930s.

Sand spits very rarely shorten, but mostly lengthen. Such it is that the Cedar Point sand spit bordering Gardiner’s Bay on the north and Northwest Harbor on the south has extended all the way to Cedar Island, where the Cedar Island Lighthouse stands, and beyond — about 200 feet since 1838.

The 1838 U.S. Coast Survey map has little black dots along the land from Cedar Point County Park on the west to Three Mile Harbor on the east. These dots are taken to be glacial erratics, which fell from the bluff that has been receding to the south while providing the sands for the extension of Cedar Point.

Back to Cartwright Island. It comes and goes with each severe northeaster or tropical storm. It has to fight sea level rise, but it is still fed somewhat from sand moving south along either side of Gardiner’s Island’s south spit, from which it separated. I suppose there is enough sand washing away from both the east and west sides of Gardiner’s Island proper to eventually create additional Cartwright Islands to the south of the existing one.

From April through mid-August, Cartwright Island is an important nesting area for federally endangered and threatened terns and threatened piping plovers as well as oystercatchers and other colonial nesting water birds. The East Hampton Town Natural Resources Department used to take care of them. The spit to the north used to be covered with several active osprey nests built on the sand, some three or four feet high when I visited with Paul Stoutenburgh in the mid-1950s.

But let us not forget little no-longer Hicks Island, in this regard. When there were two inlets, there were piping plovers, roseate terns, least terns, and common terns nesting on it. Before the Natural Resources Department started overseeing it, Carl Safina and his Audubon crew watched over it. Now, no longer isolated, it is hunted over by fox and other mammals and is no longer the most productive piping plover and least tern breeding habitat in East Hampton Town.

That same east inlet, which was maintained year after year, also provided fresh tidal water for a band of eelgrass that ran from north to south along the east side of the harbor. It was the only large eelgrass bed in East Hampton to survive the brown tides of the 1980s and eventually became a Town Trustee Eelgrass Sanctuary.

Two weeks ago, I bumped into the private consultant who put together the last plan for Napeague Harbor under the guise of the Peconic Estuary Program, overseen by the Suffolk County Department of Ecology. The plan’s final recommendation was for maintaining the west inlet at the expense of the east one. When I questioned the wisdom of his decision, “One water body, one inlet” was his reply, a new rule of thumb that apparently the county has adopted. So much for the birds! 

 

Larry Penny can be reached via email at [email protected].

‘If Found’ Stickers Help

‘If Found’ Stickers Help

Waterproof stickers for paddle craft with the owner’s name and number help the Coast Guard determine if an abandoned vessel is cause for a full-fledged search and rescue operation.
Waterproof stickers for paddle craft with the owner’s name and number help the Coast Guard determine if an abandoned vessel is cause for a full-fledged search and rescue operation.
Campbell Conard
Waterproof stickers affixed to the craft include the owners’ names and phone numbers
By
Campbell Conard

Summer is not over yet. In fact, the next few weeks may be among the best of the year for getting out on the water in small paddle craft like canoes, kayaks, and stand-up paddleboards. But storms and high winds can quickly turn a fun excursion into a dangerous situation, separating paddlers from their craft.

When the United States Coast Guard receives a call of an abandoned vessel on the water, it must dispatch a team to begin a search and rescue operation to ensure that the paddler hasn’t been separated from the vessel in an accident. If someone is in trouble it is the Coast Guard’s responsibility to find and rescue them; but sometimes, that abandoned vessel has simply been carried offshore by winds or high tides and the Coast Guard will have spent time and resources on an operation that is unnecessary. 

To solve this problem in the Northeast, the Coast Guard has introduced an optional “If Found” sticker program for small paddle craft. Waterproof stickers affixed to the craft include the owners’ names and phone numbers, giving the Coast Guard an easy way to figure out if an abandoned vessel was occupied at the time it was lost. If the owner of the paddle craft answers, and confirms that no one was on it, the Coast Guard can make arrangements to return it to its owner. If no one responds, or if someone picks up and confirms that an individual was aboard the vessel, a search and rescue operation will continue. 

The Montauk Coast Guard Station has already handed out thousands of “If Found” stickers, which are available at the station on Star Island and from kayak and paddleboard dealers. 

The stickers not only help to keep individuals separated from vessels safe, but they are also are a way for the public to help the Coast Guard. “The ‘If Found’ stickers are not required by law, but they do help out a lot,” said Senior Chief Petty Officer Eric Best.

There are also other recommended safety precautions when operating a paddle craft. A lifejacket and a whistle are required at all times for those paddling outside of a designated swimming area. “We are focusing on lifejackets because they keep people safe, and whistles because they can be used to efficiently get the attention of people onshore or of other vessels if an individual is in distress,” Officer Best said.

The Coast Guard also recommends using a float plan form, which can be filled out with trip details and emailed to a friend or family member, who can check in and make sure you are back by your planned time.

Good Times at the Grand Slam

Good Times at the Grand Slam

Ray Sperling of Sag Harbor, at right, needed help holding the 49.95-pound striped bass he caught on the charter boat Breakaway on Saturday during the Montauk Grand Slam Fishing Tournament. It was the largest bass landed in the history of the event.
Ray Sperling of Sag Harbor, at right, needed help holding the 49.95-pound striped bass he caught on the charter boat Breakaway on Saturday during the Montauk Grand Slam Fishing Tournament. It was the largest bass landed in the history of the event.
Jon M. Diat
Prizes are awarded for a combination of the largest of four species of fish: striped bass, bluefish, fluke, and sea bass
By
Jon M. Diat

In life, sometimes you win. And sometimes you lose.

For the 18th time in a row — since its inception — my friends and I have participated in the Mercury Grand Slam fishing tournament out of Montauk. Held last weekend, the two-day event is presented by the Friends of Erin and the East Hampton Kiwanis Club. Henry Uihlein, whose family has owned Uihlein’s marina on the west side of Montauk Harbor for many years, is the host and it’s always a good time.

The tournament has a local and low-key feel. It’s not fancy, and it doesn’t have high-roller Calcutta side bets as some other tournaments do. Some of these events are real hard core. Money, not the pure joy of fishing or a day on the water, is the real focus. Not here. 

For the Grand Slam (which means prizes are awarded for a combination of the largest of four species of fish: striped bass, bluefish, fluke, and sea bass), laughter and camaraderie are the primary goals, and quite frankly, mandatory. In short, it is a slice of what Montauk used to be, a laid-back, quiet town, even in summer, where everybody knew everyone. Sometimes it’s best to keep it simple and try to relive it. And Henry does well to keep the tradition alive and retain as much of that old-town character.

My group of five friends fished both Saturday and Sunday under the guidance of the skillful Capt. Richard Etzel of the charter boat Breakaway. I’ve known Rick for several decades. He has worn two hats, that of commercial fisherman and charter boat owner, and is a seasoned veteran of the waters that surround Montauk and distant environs. He is one of the finest fishermen I have ever known.

Rick and I attended the same high school back in northern Nassau County, but he graduated about eight years earlier, so we didn’t know each other growing up. Still, I feel like I’ve known him my entire life. He has a wonderful family and his friendship is true. You can never know enough good people.

The fishing was not exceptional last weekend. Fluke were hard to locate, as they have been most of the season, but the sea bass action was consistent from Gurney’s all the way eastward to Block Island. Our largest sea bass was a shade over four pounds. Not huge but a rather decent-size fish. Tracking down a bluefish, normally a pretty easy thing to do, was a challenge. It took a few hours of time and effort on the troll to land a four-pound fish. 

The lone bright spot was the striped bass fishing. It was exceptional. While we only focused on stripers for less than an hour over the two-day period, we landed three bass over 35 pounds, including a whopper of 49.95 pounds, the largest bass ever weighed in the history of the tournament. 

Alas, our fish point total did not equate to a victory at the conclusion of the event. We were close, but we were bested in the charter/commercial division by Charlie Etzel, Rick’s brother. We lost to him last year by a single point. Still, we had no complaints as a great time was had by all of us. We have won the title a number of times in the past, and it’s nice to see that another great person took the honors.

In a true sense, there were no losers last weekend. We will smile at the memories of the laughs and good times again and again. 

Back on land, Harvey Bennett at the Tackle Shop in Amagansett was playing homage to the French as Bastille Day was celebrated on Saturday. “We owe a lot to the French people,” said Monsieur Bennett, who flew the French flag proudly outside his shop. “I got a lot of people who stopped by to ask about the flag. I gave them all a history lesson.”

As for the local fishing scene, Bennett remarked that some big bass continue to be pulled out from the ocean surf in Amagansett. “Some fish up to 35 pounds were landed in the past day or two,” he said. “Sharks continue to hang around chasing the schools of bunker close to shore in the same general area, while some weakfish were landed at Hither Hills, too.”

On the bay side, Bennett said that fluke fishing remains solid off Napeague and that porgy fishing is excellent off Gardiner’s Island and the Navy dock in Fort Pond Bay in Montauk. Want to catch a bluefish? Bennett said they were thick at the Ruins at the northernmost tip of Gardiner’s. 

And if you are looking to land one of those big striped bass, Bennett now has live eels for sale. “I call them bass candy,” he said. “If you want to catch a big bass, eels are probably the best bait around.” 

“Weakfish have been good in Noyac Bay, along with porgies,” said Ken Morse at Tight Lines Tackle in Sag Harbor. “If you want fluke, head out east of Gardiner’s Island. And striped bass fishing has been good at Plum Gut and the Race.”

On the offshore scene, the big story from anyone who has been out hunting shark and tuna is the amount of life out there. “Whales, dolphin, turtles, bunker, and sand eels are all over,” said Scott Jeffrey at East End Bait and Tackle in Hampton Bays. “Whales breaching near the boats are a real show to see. There are mako sharks around, but the new 83-inch minimum size limit is a tough one to make. As for bluefin, they have been holding in the area near the Coimbra wreck with some big fish mixed in.”

On the commercial side, the closure of the fluke fishery on Sunday will remain in effect through July 31. Afterward, the daily trip limit is set at 50 pounds.

We welcome your fishing tips, 

observations, and photographs at 

[email protected]. You can find the 

“On the Water” column on Twitter at 

@ehstarfishing.

Nature Notes: The Remarkable Slug

Nature Notes: The Remarkable Slug

A large leopard slug made a mushroom its late-night meal.
A large leopard slug made a mushroom its late-night meal.
Maryann Buquicchio
What is a slug, anyway?
By
Larry Penny

There are a ton of field guides for birds, butterflies, moths, mammals, fishes, seashells, flowering plants, trees, and even fungi, seaweeds, ants, and, beetles, but who ever heard of a field guide to the lowly slugs. 

Well, wouldn’t you know, there is one! “Field Guide to the Slug” by the Western Society of Malacologists was published in 2002 in paperback by Sasquatch Books.

What is a slug, anyway? Slugs rank right up there with sow bugs, smut fungi, rotifers, dung beetles, and no-see-ums in name recognition and popularity. There is yet no official list of world slug species, but it is estimated that there are at least 2,000 of them, compared to 100,000 or so snails, the group from which slugs derived. England has 40 different species, Kentucky 14.

Slugs are seldom seen. Most of them are nocturnal and only come out to feed and reproduce when the humidity is very high or after rains. The one word that describes them to most people is “slimy.” However few there are locally, they were out in force on Saturday and Sunday evenings following rains. It was 1 a.m. Sunday morning when Maryann Buquicchio, who lives in East Hampton, took her ailing dog out for a walk and came upon a leopard slug feeding on a mushroom. This slug, Limax maximus, is one of the world’s largest, as the scientific name suggests. Only a few other slugs, namely those of the banana slug group on the West Coast and elsewhere, are larger.

Leopard slugs are rather common in gardens and in rich landscapes. They feed on a variety of plant stuffs as well as fungi, of which mushrooms are most favored. They are readily identifiable by the black spots covering their five-to-six-inch bodies. One can go out into the dark on a damp night and find leopard slug slime trails sometimes glistening in the moonlight. By dawn they have mostly dried up and are not easily seen. Leopard slugs can move along at a rate of about six inches a minute, not bad for an animal without  legs or feet.

They make no sounds but have powerful olfactory senses, so it is by these mucous-y trails that the slugs find each other for socializing. 

The leopard slug’s head has two sets of antennae — one for sensing light, the other for smell. They breath air, but only have one lung on one side of the body with a breathing pore to the outside. Slug species are hermaphroditic and capable of self-reproduction, but mating is the preferred way of producing “sluglets.” Interestingly, their penises can be half as long as their bodies.

The fabled banana slugs of California have penises that are up to six inches long, so long that frequently after mating their intromittent organs get stuck and have to be bit off in order to free one slug from the other. They don’t grow back and from that time on sex is a one-way proposition. After fertilization, the eggs are laid in a damp, protected place, hatching out into little slugs three to five weeks later.

The banana slugs take the cake in size but not in manner of reproduction. The leopard slugs engage in one of the most bizarre acts of sex observed throughout the animal kingdom including in humans. Two mature leopard slugs climb up tree trunks, find a suitable branch on which to begin the act of mating, and then, using their rich combined mucous threads, slowly lower themselves down, consummating the sex act in midair, after which they lower themselves to the ground and go on their separate ways.

Hawks and eagles are capable of mating while airborne; one that cannot is a poor mate. Dragonflies and a few other flying insects also mate in the air, none the worse for speed and aerobatics as they go. Such aerial sex naturally selects for the fittest members of the species. 

 While some human sex acts are weird in their execution, nothing yet compares to the erotic antics of two leopard slugs in love. I suppose that one day in the not-too-distant future, during the midst of the ongoing worldwide sexual revolution, we will read in the daily newspapers or hear on the 6 o’clock news that an infant has just been delivered after being conceived in midair by two sky jumpers.

Larry Penny can be reached via email at [email protected].

Blue Crab Bliss, Bigeye Bite

Blue Crab Bliss, Bigeye Bite

Catching blue-claw crabs is fun, but because diamondback terrapins can also be lured to crab traps by the scent of bait, the D.E.C. is offering free terrapin-excluder devices to install on the entryway to commercial and recreational crab pots.
Catching blue-claw crabs is fun, but because diamondback terrapins can also be lured to crab traps by the scent of bait, the D.E.C. is offering free terrapin-excluder devices to install on the entryway to commercial and recreational crab pots.
Jon M. Diat
Short-tempered, feisty, and downright nasty in its demeanor
By
Jon M. Diat

For those who have followed my adventures in trapping lobsters over the past few months, I must freely admit that I have an even greater fondness (and appetite) for a rather close cousin of that popular staple of the summertime clam bake.

It’s the blue-claw crab. Ounce for ounce, nothing in our East End waters is more short-tempered, feisty, and downright nasty in its demeanor. Fast and agile swimmers, blue crabs are also blessed with keen 20-20 eyesight and are armed with a set of sharp pincer claws. If you’re not careful picking one up, the blue crab is more than happy to take a lightning-quick swipe at any careless fingers.

Trust me on this. I learned the hard way as a young kid when I made the immature mistake of teasing a large blue crab in a bucket with repeated waves of my finger. I underestimated its coordination and painfully learned the lesson that day to give the blue crab a lot more respect.

Since that close encounter of the crab kind, I discovered that the delicate meat of the blue crab, whether in hard or soft-shell form, is decidedly delicious, being both moist and sweet. To my taste buds, it is superior to lobster. When explaining this to my friends and family, I usually get a puzzled look in response. What could be better than lobster, most of them wonder?

While lobsters require a bit of work, it is easier to extract more plentiful meat from within their shells. Hard-shell blue crabs are smaller in size and require more effort and intricate knife work to get at all of the pearly white flesh, but the end result is a better payoff in my view. That said, I never refuse a chance to consume lobster.

Catching blue crabs is fun, too. There are a number of ways to pursue them, including the use of a baited wire mesh cage that’s usually left to fish overnight, when blue crabs are more active. However, the use of such traps comes with a significant drawback, as diamondback terrapins are also lured by the scent of the bait inside the cage. Once inside the crab trap, many terrapins can’t find the exit quickly enough to surface and breathe, resulting in death by drowning. Not good.

To reduce the mortality of terrapin in blue crab traps, this spring the New York State Department of Environmental Conservation ordered that terrapin-excluder devices measuring 1.75 by 4.75 inches be installed on the entryways of commercial and recreational crab pots. The devices have been used in other states and have proven to prevent many terrapins from entering crab traps, without impacting the number of blue crabs collected. 

If you own one of these older traps and need a terrapin-excluder device, a small number of them (provided by The Nature Conservancy and Seatuck) are available free on a first-come-first-served basis from the D.E.C. More information can be had by calling the agency at 631-444-0429 or at [email protected]

In addition, the D.E.C. is encouraging recreational crabbers to complete a blue crab survey that will aid the agency’s efforts to manage the population. If you encounter a crab with a yellow wire tag across its carapace or upper shell, it should be reported to the blue crab tagging program.

While the blue crab season got off to a very slow start, activity has perked up a bit over the past two weeks as the waters continue to warm. Last season’s catch was exceptional in many of our bays, creeks, coves, and estuaries, and it lasted well into the fall. Only time will tell if history will repeat itself.

On the inshore fishing scene, striped bass action at Montauk continues to be good but has become a bit more dependent on the tides and baits used. Fluke, porgies, and sea bass remain decent in their usual summertime haunts in Block Island Sound and south of the Montauk Lighthouse.

Farther offshore, action on sharks — blue, mako, and thresher — remains consistent. The big news concerns the appearance of bigeye tuna, and the bite was solid until the winds came on strong over the weekend.

Lots of bigeyes were landed up until Friday, “when the bite turned off,” said Bill Campbell at Westlake Marina in Montauk. “With the strong winds this week, it’s doubtful that many boats will have a chance to see if they have returned.” Campbell added that bass fishing has slowed up a bit and that the fish have shifted their diet to sand eels. “Live eels are not the hot bait anymore,” he added.

“The weather was a bit tough over the weekend but there has been some really good fishing around,” said Harvey Bennett of the Tackle Shop in Amagansett. “Lots of shorts, but Napeague has some really hot fluke fishing going on. Porgies are just about everywhere in either the bay or ocean, and stripers are still in the wash. The other day I weighed in a 41-pounder that was taken on a bunker chunk by an 11-year-old kid. He was thrilled. Snappers are in, too.”

Bennett was also aware of the bigeye bite offshore. “One guy I know landed 11 of them plus two white marlin,” he said. “Lots of bait and life out there, including whales and porpoises.”

An avid New York Yankees fan, Bennett continues his never-ending search for new and used baseball equipment that will ultimately be donated to underprivileged children in the Dominican Republic.

“The camp we donated to early this year is now in the playoffs,” he said, smiling from behind his counter on Monday morning, clutching a baseball that someone had just dropped off. “The pictures I have received the past few weeks from them wearing or using the equipment makes my day. Apparently, a scout from the Yankee system was there too. Wouldn’t that be something if one of the kids got drafted?” No word if Bennett will change careers to be a sports agent.

Beyond the baseball diamond, over at Mrs. Sam’s Bait and Tackle in East Hampton, the owner, Sebastian Gorgone, waxed enthusiastically about the porgy fishing around Gardiner’s Island and in Three Mile Harbor. “Fishing has been excellent and some big fish are mixed in,” he said. “Fluking has been good at Gin Beach in Montauk, too.”

Gorgone also heard a report that blue-claw crabs were crawling about in Georgica Pond. Sadly, on Saturday, the pond was closed to fishing and crabbing due to a blue-green algae bloom.

The warmth of summer usually heralds the arrival of fish not normally found in our waters. And last week was no exception as a dusky shark well over 200 pounds was caught and released from a commercial pound trap in Little Peconic Bay, while a 100-pound tarpon was landed from the east side of Shelter Island. A sheepshead was taken from the commercial dock in Montauk. And while surf­casting at White Sands on the ocean on Friday afternoon, Daniel Fry came across an Atlantic flying fish.

“It was cool to see and I followed him along the trough for a while until he broke the surface and flew off,” he said while casting bucktails and bluefish belly for fluke, where he caught a number of shorts along the beach. “Another guy there caught a 25-inch striped bass on a whole clam, but I had to measure it for him and tell him to put her back.” Anglers are allowed one bass per day over 28 inches.

We welcome your fishing tips, observations, and photographs at [email protected]. You can find the “On the Water” column on Twitter at @ehstarfishing.

Nature Notes: Little Pond That Could

Nature Notes: Little Pond That Could

Another Humpty Dumpty story
By
Larry Penny

This column is about a failed plan to construct a failed recharge basin. It is another Humpty Dumpty story about engineers, town councils, town attorneys, contractors, and the like designing and trying to build a recharge basin to trap runoff water from a farm field in East Hampton on a site along Route 114 in 2010. 

The site was wrong because it was a piece of farmland put aside by the Suffolk County’s agricultural preserve program, in effect since the mid-1970s. One can continue to farm on such dedicated farmland, but you cannot build recharge basins, airfields, residences, and a bunch of other things on it under the letter of the law.

Rainwater draining southwesterly from the fields on both sides of Long Lane has been a problem since that area was first farmed. It became a bigger problem after the modernization of Route 114 and after a subdivision was created on the opposite side of the highway more than 38 years ago. A new culvert was installed during the modernization and the water was allowed to flow into a vacant weedy lot adjacent to that new subdivision. The undeveloped lot couldn’t handle it and some of the houses and lots in that subdivision were exposed to chronic flooding.

The East Hampton Town Board under Supervisor Bill Wilkinson tried to solve the problem once and for all with the help of the town engineer and an UpIsland engineering company, Sidney B. Bowne and Son. Then Councilwoman Theresa Quigley led the charge after the landowner gave permission, and the plan was put in motion. 

The project was put out to bid, and work began, but the excavation was barely a quarter done when someone from the county blew the whistle and the work came to an abrupt halt. It was the demise of the project. And yet water ran into it and from that day on the basin has remained almost full to the top while complaints from the subdivision across the street have been largely silenced. 

So in the absence of any remediation by the county, there is a new pond in East Hampton, one that is not in the town trustees’ jurisdiction and is not at all managed, but is truly a pond, perched well above the water table for all to see as they travel back and forth on that increasingly busy thoroughfare.

Over the years, I have noticed crows, even ducks, in the pond, but crows and ducks can be found in any disturbed area that holds water. The true realization that a pond had been born happened during the evening of July 21 when I attended a lecture at the Nature Conservancy headquarters just south of the pond on the same side of the road. Ironically, perhaps, the lecture was on water, particularly coastal waters and their rise.

After the lecture and discussion that followed, it was still quite light when I prepared to leave the area. Then I heard a familiar sound, in fact, lots of familiar sounds — the mating calls of the gray tree frog, Hyla versicolor. There must have been a good hundred or so, and on approaching the weedy berm on the south side of the pond, I saw them hopping here and there among the weeds. It is the male that calls. It was a perfect evening for reproduction, warm, sultry, and it had rained a day earlier.

Gray tree frogs are expert climbers. They are insectivorous and spend 90 percent of their time near the tops of trees sitting on the topsides of branches. They have one of those in-and-out sticky tongues for grabbing insects. They feed on mosquitoes, gnats, moths, ants, beetles, and the like. Their close relative, the spring peeper, breeds earlier, say in March and April. It is also arboreal and a skilled insect snapper-upper. I bet that if that same incipient pond had been explored in April after a rain, the shrill calls of the spring peeper would have been heard.

Male frogs of both species have expandable skins known as gular folds covering their chins, which they can inflate at will and which become the sound chambers, or amplifiers, for their mating calls.

The gray tree frog has a pretty monotonic warble in the upper C-clef range. It is also different from the spring peeper and a lookalike species, Cope’s tree frog, that is found elsewhere. The only differences between the two are our tree frog has 48 chromosomes while the other has 24 and our tree frog emits sound pulses at half the rate of the other.

The tree frogs aren’t the only opportunists to inhabit the pond and its immediate surroundings. In my brief time there, I also witnessed bullfrogs and dragonflies among the fauna.

The dragonflies are quick to find new breeding and hunting areas, but the frogs? Well, bullfrogs regularly leave one wet spot to find another. The tree frogs, however, are not great travelers. Could they have come from a pond on the south side of Stephen Hand’s Path just west of 114? 

Another thing I noticed about this drainage “mistake” is that this depression, less than a quarter of the size of the intended recharge basin, seems to be capable of handling most of the runoff that was causing the problem originally and was probably built at less than a quarter of the estimated bid price. If it were permissible to flatten out the steep berms on some of its sides, the pond would become an attractive feature along that well-traveled route. 

Alas, the “submarine” that inhabited the pond soon after the project was stopped — a practical joke — was not in evidence. It must have sunk!

Larry Penny can be reached via email at [email protected]

Clamoring for Surf Clams

Clamoring for Surf Clams

Dave Debaun of Southampton landed a large thresher shark off Block Island last week on the charter boat Blue Fin IV.
Dave Debaun of Southampton landed a large thresher shark off Block Island last week on the charter boat Blue Fin IV.
Capt. Michael Potts
And who has the brains and guts to argue with Mother Nature?
By
Jon M. Diat

Last week’s unusually turbulent summer weather, which included extended wind gusts to over 30 miles per hour on several days mixed in with a few tropical downpours, certainly stirred up our local waters. Rip current warnings were posted up and down the coast for most of the week and weekend. It was best to stay out of the drink most days.

Without a doubt, it was not exactly the ideal “Hamptons” week that many of our short-term residents wish for, expect, and ultimately pay for around these parts. It truly was a very tough time if you happened to play or work on or near the water. But it happens. 

And who has the brains and guts to argue with Mother Nature? No matter the wager, I’ve got my money on the old lady. She knows her stuff.

In particular, the strong winds deterred most boats from venturing out to the distant Atlantis Canyon and the Tails east of Montauk to see if the bigeye and yellowfin tuna bite of a week ago was still on. Adverse weather usually alters the fishing scene, sometimes for the better, sometimes for the worse.

While the wild and woolly conditions put a crimp in many fishing efforts, as well as sunbathing in general, there was at least one positive I saw as the much-agitated ocean happened to stir up the bottom sufficiently to unearth a plethora of large Atlantic surf clams (commonly referred to as skimmer clams around these parts). Lined up by the dozens high and dry above the sand in a steady line at the high tide mark, they provided easy pickings for those in the know.

Large in size, the hard shells of this stout mollusk can measure nearly 10 inches in length and adorn many a patio or house as an informal ashtray or aesthetic nautical accouterment. 

While they provide a colorful, local detail to any abode, they are also edible in many forms. If you are old enough, remember the fried clam strips from Howard Johnson’s? Loved them as a kid. The clams have also made their way into sushi restaurants. Enjoy clam chowder or clam juice in your Bloody Mary mix? Most commercial manufacturers use them. Even up north in Newfoundland, Nova Scotia, and eastern Quebec, a burgeoning and lucrative surf clam business has expanded greatly in the past few years. Most of the harvest is shipped overnight to Japan and Asia. 

On the other end, the surf clam is an extremely popular bait to lure anything from flounder to striped bass to porgy to cod to a baited hook. Prices for the mollusks have skyrocketed as well. A few years ago, a bushel of surf clams would go for about $20. Last time I checked, they were selling for around $75 or more, if you can even get your hands on them. Unfortunately, the warming waters off Long Island and New Jersey, a traditional hot spot for over a century, have gradually moved the harvesting of the clams to more cool, northerly climates. Lots of people are clamoring for clams these days.

“It’s almost impossible to get fresh surf clams,” said Ken Morse at Tight Lines Tackle in Sag Harbor. “I ordered as much frozen product before the fishing season started to make sure I had enough on hand. I was not certain my supplier would be able to provide me with enough as the season went along.”

Sadly, by the time I got down to the ocean with a large bucket in tow the day after they washed up, the clams were all gone. You snooze, you lose. I missed my chance. Memo to self: Always keep a five-gallon bucket in the car. 

While striped bass fishing at Montauk continued at a good clip leading up to and after the full moon, the aftermath of the rough seas seemed to pick up the spirits of those focused on fluke fishing, as catches increased in both size and numbers.

“The fishing really turned on when the seas calmed down,” said Kathy Vegessi, the veteran shoreside support arm of the Lazybones party boat out of Montauk. “It’s been the best action we’ve seen all year, with some really nice fluke landed up to nine pounds.” Vegessi even took time to wet a line herself on Friday morning and quickly limited out with four keeper fish. The newly anointed Queen of Fluke donned her crown with pride, along with a big smile and gentle wave of her hand at the end of the trip. God save the Queen.

Over at the Tackle Shop in Amagansett, the owner Harvey Bennett was beaming over the fact that the baseball camp he supports for underprivileged children in the Dominican Republic with donated baseball equipment and clothing, won the local championship last week. “How cool is that?” he asked with a wide grin on Monday morning. “To see the smiles on their faces from the pictures and videos was priceless.” Bennett is still looking for more baseball wares and plans to head to the Dominican in November with his next delivery. “The response from people out here has been great,” he said. “But I’m still looking for more stuff to box up.”

When finally convinced to talk about fishing, Bennett said that the action has been excellent on many fronts. “Snappers are all over and larger blues have moved into the waters around Montauk,” he said. “Fluke up to seven pounds have been taken at Napeague and large porgies are everywhere. If you want blowfish, try the docks in Three Mile Harbor.” Bennett added that striped bass remain plentiful along the various ocean beaches and that a few sharks are around to spice things up. “Don’t forget to try a live snapper for bait if you go fluke fishing,” he finally added. “It’s the best bait around if you want to catch a larger fish.”

Back at Tight Lines Tackle in Sag Harbor, Morse said that weakfish can be had at the Middle Grounds and in Noyac Bay, while bluefish are taking diamond jigs at Jessup’s Neck on the incoming tide. “Fluke fishing has been hit or miss at Gardiner’s Island, but some nice sea bass are around there,” he said. “Plus, porgies of good sizes are there too, as well as over on the north side of Plum Island, along with sea bass.”

On the commercial side, the summer fluke season reopened on Tuesday after a two-week closure; however, the black sea bass season closed on Saturday and will remain closed through Aug. 31. Effective Sept. 1, the daily trip limit is set at a rather paltry 50 pounds for the over- abundant fish.

We welcome your fishing tips, observations, and photographs at [email protected]. You can find the “On the Water” column on Twitter at @ehstarfishing.

Nature Notes: Oh, the Humanity?

Nature Notes: Oh, the Humanity?

A pygmy pilot whale was found beached east of Shagwong Point in Montauk in May 2016 along with another smaller whale.
A pygmy pilot whale was found beached east of Shagwong Point in Montauk in May 2016 along with another smaller whale.
Victoria Bustamante
We are one of the few mammals that engages in combat
By
Larry Penny

Humans are mammals. We Homo sapiens can carry on conversations in hundreds of different languages, keep legible diaries, write histories, sing, act, take tests, practice various vocations, go to schools and universities, indulge in marriage ceremonies and funerals. We are complicated and talented mammals, but in the final analysis, mammals.

Yet we are one of the few mammals that engages in combat. To a much lesser degree, one of our close relatives, the chimpanzee, will fight fellows of its species to the death, as will a few others, including the male African lion, which is known to kill and eat cubs that are not his own. But all other members of the class Mammalia, do not engage in mass killing of each other in the name of conquering or defending. In the first sense, we are the most advanced and most intellectual of all mammals when dealing with each other; in the second sense, the dumbest and cruelest. 

Another thing almost unique to humans is suicide. Very few mammal species take their own lives, save the lemmings and hoofed species that are known to follow the leader over cliffs to their deaths. It is still unproven, but some believe that whales commit suicide. Not all strandings or “beachings,” of whales are suicidal, but some are believed to be. Some whales are mass beachers: The stranding of 1,000 or so pilot whales in 1918 comes to mind, or the beaching of 450 pilot whales in New Zealand in 1985. Some readers may remember the dolphins that for some reason entered Northwest Creek, an arm of Northwest Harbor, in the early 2000s, only to mostly perish despite several days of efforts to get them to deeper water and save them.

We couldn’t talk to them, so we will never really know why they did it. Some cetaceans, such as baleen whales, are more solitary, but occasionally also beach and die. It’s puzzling why six humpback whales, all loners, have beached and died on Long Island since 2017. The Cuvier’s beaked whale is a solitary species that frequently beaches and some of these beachings are tied to naval sonar use. But if not suicide, why do so many beaching rescues end up with the creatures ultimately beaching again? 

Suicides in America are on the rise again after a momentary hiatus. At last count there were some 45,000 deaths from suicide every year in the United States. Yet for every successful suicide, there are about 25,000 attempts that are thwarted.

Murder is also on the rise across the world. While male lions sometimes eat cubs and chimps kill other chimps in raids, even if such are counted as murders, the rate is many, many times less than in humans. In India, Central America, Mexico, and many Caribbean countries, murder rates are very high. In  Scandinavia, England, and other European countries, they are very low.

Wars are another source of the loss of life. More than 35 million civilians and military personnel died in World War II, as many as 44 million in the internecine Taiping war of China in 1844. At last count there were more than 7.5 billion humans worldwide; 44 million is less than a half a percentage point of the world total, but losses from wars, suicides, highway deaths, murders, diseases, and other health problems add up, and the birth rate worldwide is dropping. We may see a death rate that equals the birth rate by the end of the century, and, thus, a stable world population.

Humans, perhaps rodents such as rats, as well as dogs and cats, may be increasing in numbers while almost all of the other vertebrates are either decreasing or have very low numbers to begin with. We have yet to see the havoc wrought by too many people, but we may be on that verge. It goes without saying that we should stop fighting with each other, stop competing with each other when it leads to more have-nots than haves, stop killing ourselves, and continue to progress in medicine, education, and economics. 

It’s been at least 3,000 years since Moses came down from Mount Sinai with the 10 commandments in tow, but they are still as good as any codes contrived today. The handwriting is on the wall, the question is, “Can we read it?” 

Larry Penny can be reached via email at [email protected].

Kayak Racks Now at Gerard Point

Kayak Racks Now at Gerard Point

The East Hampton Town Trustees have racks to house 40 kayaks at the end of Gerard Drive in Springs.
The East Hampton Town Trustees have racks to house 40 kayaks at the end of Gerard Drive in Springs.
Durell Godfrey
By
Christopher Walsh

To accommodate demand, the East Hampton Town Trustees, who manage most of the town’s beaches and waterways west of Montauk on behalf of the public, have added racks to store 40 kayaks at the end of Gerard Drive in Springs. 

The popularity of kayaking in the town’s waterways led to kayaks being left on the grass, which is a violation of the town code. “Last year, we did have Marine Patrol go there and ticket the ones in the grass,” Francis Bock, the trustees’ clerk, said at their meeting on Monday. 

“They were in the dune there, on the grass,” Brian Byrnes, a trustee, said earlier on Monday, “and Ed Michels,” the town’s chief harbormaster, “said they had impounded a bunch because they were all over the place. We said, ‘Let’s set up some racks and clean it up.’ ” A contractor constructed them, Mr. Byrnes said, completing the job late last month. 

Kayakers are required to purchase an annual permit, which costs $200, to store a kayak on the racks. As of Monday, 36 of the 40 spaces had been rented. 

“It looks a million times better,” Mr. Byrnes said of the area, but there are practical reasons for the new setup as well, he added. “There really is an advantage to having your kayak on a rack. It stays clean, it’s off the ground, you can lock it up, and it’s safe.”

At 75, Capt. John Rade Still the ‘High Hook’

At 75, Capt. John Rade Still the ‘High Hook’

Capt. John Rade, seen here with a massive striped bass, will be honored as the Fishing Legend of the Year at the conclusion of the Montauk Mercury Grand Slam Fishing Tournament on Sunday.
Capt. John Rade, seen here with a massive striped bass, will be honored as the Fishing Legend of the Year at the conclusion of the Montauk Mercury Grand Slam Fishing Tournament on Sunday.
By
Jon M. Diat

A survey probably isn’t needed, but if you ask just about any experienced fisherman who shuffles along in his or her weathered oilskins and deck boots among the well-used docks and boats of Montauk Harbor who is the king of rod-and-reel commercial fishing (a “pinhooker” in local slang), most are likely to agree that John Rade, better known as Johnny, is the one who wears the crown.

The legend of Captain Rade’s unique ability to catch fish runs long and deep, more than half a century on the water to be precise, and at the age of 75, he is still at the top of his game. In commercial dockside talk, he is “high-hook” for the large catch of fish he packs out for market almost every day in season.  With a quiet and respectful low-key demeanor, whether on land or at sea, Rade has a sixth sense when it comes to knowing where, when, and how to fish. Few can touch his skill set. Fishermen respect him. Fish fear him. 

“He is by far the most respected man in the harbor,” said Capt. Richard Etzel of the charter boat Breakaway, who has known Captain Rade for several decades.

On Sunday evening, Captain Rade will witness firsthand the admiration of his peers when he is honored as the Fishing Legend of the Year at the conclusion of the 18th annual Montauk Mercury Grand Slam Fishing Tournament, presented by the Montauk Friends of Erin and the East Hampton Kiwanis Club.

Previous tournament honorees selected him to receive the award. “In the history of this tournament and award, Johnny is one of the most deserving to receive this honor and is a true legend in Montauk,” said Henry Uihlein, owner of Uihlein’s Marina in Montauk, headquarters for this weekend’s tournament and festivities. “He exemplifies what a real fisherman is by fishing by himself, on his own boat, with just a rod and reel. I’m personally honored to know Johnny. He is one of the nicest, most wholesome, and most respectful people you will ever meet.”

“I’m really surprised, but I’m very honored by this,” Captain Rade said on Saturday evening after unloading a catch of fluke at the Inlet Seafood dock in Montauk. “I just do what I do. I love fishing, especially bottom fishing. I may have slowed down a bit, but I don’t plan to stop.”

Captain Rade was born in Brooklyn, but his family moved to Montauk in 1945 when he was 2 years old. “Montauk was so simple then,” he recalled. “There were dirt roads and not many people out here, but the fishing business was getting off the ground.”

Drawn at a young age to the buzz of activity around the party and charter boats docked at Fishangri-la at the southeast end of Fort Pond Bay, where loads of New York City anglers would head after getting off the Long Island Rail Road, Captain Rade became a dock rat early in life. “I would do anything, like help clean fish,” he said. “It did not matter. I just loved being on the docks or on the water.”

After graduating from East Hampton High School, Captain Rade joined his father, and older brother, Richard, running the family-owned Marlin II party boat for 15 years. “We were mainly a porgy boat, but we also did a lot of early spring fishing for cod,” he said. “There used to be some incredible cod fishing around Montauk and Block Island.”

Captain Rade continued to sharpen his fishing prowess by working on other charter and party boats, including the Jigger II with Capt. Howie Carroll and with the Forsbergs on their Viking boats. He also fished and worked closely with Johnny Kronuch Sr., who owned Johnny’s Tackle Shop in downtown Montauk with his son for over 70 years.

“I paid attention and learned so much by working with all of these different people and boats,” he said. “I learned about tides, the moon phases, where and when to go, what baits worked best. I tried to absorb and study it all from everyone and I really tried to think like a fish, especially bottom fish like fluke, porgy, sea bass, cod, flounder, and blackfish.”

Taking that wide knowledge base and experience, Captain Rade took the plunge to go independent and bought a 16-foot skiff to fish with a rod and reel by himself. It’s a decision he does not regret. He is now on his fourth boat, a fiberglass 26-footer. While his boats have varied in size up to 32 feet, there has been one constant in all of the craft he has owned over the years. All have been named Starfish. 

“I saw that boat name in a James Bond movie and it has stuck with me ever since,” he chuckled. “It’s a simple name, but I like it.” 

When not on the water, Captain Rade has also worked at Inlet Seafood for the past 30 years packing out fish. “I guess it’s pretty clear that I was built to be working on the water,” said Captain Rade, who also happens to be an enthusiatic birdwatcher. Those fishing genes have been passed on to his son Brian, who gillnets monkfish and traps for lobster. His daughter, Judith, is a special education teacher at the Montauk School. Karen, Captain Rade’s wife of 49 years, retired as the director of the Montauk Library in 2014.  

“I love Johnny, his family, and I wish I had all of his fishing knowledge,” said Capt. Dave Aripotch, owner of the commercial dragger Caitlin Mairead, who has known Captain Rade since the early 1970s, when they did some gillnetting together. “It’s all of the little odds and ends that he knows. He catches fish like no other person I’ve ever seen. And he works as hard today as he did 30 years ago. Look at the great shape he is in. He is tireless and just a great man.”

When asked if he plans to fish on Sunday, the day he is to be honored, Captain Rade replied that “unless the weather is really bad, I’ll be out there. But I will pack my catch out and get to the ceremony in time. Don’t worry.”

Hail to the King.