Who's The Best Sommelier Of All?
Who's The Best Sommelier Of All?
Imagine this scenario: You have a baroness and a Venetian doge seated at a table in the restaurant where you are the sommelier, and since they speak no English you must communicate with them in French. They've selected a bottle of champagne as well as a bottle of red (a Long Island red, of course), and you have 10 minutes to serve both wines properly.
Doesn't sound so difficult, right? Well, not necessarily. This scenario was the final test, the practical portion, put to four of the country's leading sommeliers who competed Sunday at Pellegrini Vineyards in Cutchogue, on the North Fork, in the Sommelier Society of America's championship round.
Two of the four hadn't quite completed their tasks for the practical test when the 10 minutes were up, including the one contestant who was proclaimed the winner Sunday night at a dinner at the American Hotel in Sag Harbor.
The Winner
Competing for the first time, Andrea Immer, the only woman among the four finalists and one of only three women in the United States to hold the title of master sommelier, won the competition.
Ms. Immer, a member of the society's board, will represent the United States in Austria in the spring of 1998, at the Concours Mondial des Sommeliers of the Association de la Sommellerie Internationale. She is the beverage director for B.E. Group, the company that operates Windows on the World and the Rainbow Room, both in Manhattan.
The other contestants included the runner-up (by a very slim margin), Michael McNeill, a master sommelier and the sommelier at Lespinasse restaurant in Manhattan, who was judged the best sommelier in the U.S. in French wines and spirits in the Foods and Wines From France (SOPEXA) 1994 contest, and competed in Tokyo in 1995, after winning that year's Sommelier Society of America contest.
Written Exam
Joseph Spellman, a master sommelier and the sommelier at Charlie Trotter's in Chicago, the 1996 winner in French wines and spirits in the SOPEXA competition, and George Serna, the maitre d'hotel at the Regency Club in Los Angeles, who has experience working in Monte Carlo, Italy, and France, also competed.
Before the practical exam, in a quiet room, the contestants had completed a two-hour written exam, including 60 questions on wine theory, correcting mistakes from a nine-page wine list, precisely identifying and describing a red and a white wine after a blind tasting, and then naming what wines they would pair with a meal, in this case Austrian food from Hans Gasthaus in nearby Aquebogue. The chef's grandmother, those gathered were told, was a chef in Austria and had suggested the menu.
While the questions on the written exam were tough, the pressure intensified with the practical exam. Not only the judges but members of the press and public watched as they tried to do everything as perfectly as possible against a time limit and in a non-native language.
In the average restaurant one does not encounter a sommelier or have wine served the most elegant, proper way. It is a sight to behold.
The Wine List
The sommelier's work at a restaurant, of course, begins with compiling the restaurant's wine list. A sommelier must pair selections with the restaurant's cuisine, gear it toward the price range of the average customer, and have a thorough knowledge of the wines so as to be able to help the diner choose what best suits their meal and palate.
But the selection is only the beginning, as Sunday's practical exam made clear. Roger Dagorn, the chairman of the Sommelier Society of America, a master sommelier, and one of several judges of the exam, introduced the service scenario.
The fictitious lunch menu brought chuckles from those gathered since it played on the names of both contestants and judges, like "Long Island Immer duck," named after the winner, and smoked Olson salmon with Petroske caviar, named after two judges, Steve Olson, the secretary of the society, and Barbara Petroske, another judge and the society's administrative manager.
Points Deducted
Contestants were judged on a checklist of some 60 items, approximately half for the bottle of champagne and half for the red. They ranged from the competitors' general appearance and cordiality to their French language skills, choosing the proper glasses, cleaning up, and properly clearing away the ashtray with the cigarette butt in it.
Points were deducted for spills, for clinking the bottle or, in the case of the red wine, the decanter, if the bottle rested on the lip of the decanter, for blowing out the candle used for decanting, as opposed to putting it out with one's fingers, and for not bringing one's own corkscrew and matches.
The champagne should be opened without a pop, the cork presented on a plate, a taste poured for the host, the guest served, and the bottle returned to a bucket of ice and water. The red wine should be presented in a basket, properly decanted, tasted first by the sommelier and then the host, and served in the proper glass, only half-full.
Distinct Styles
Even the casual observer could notice some of the mistakes made by the contestants, as well as some of the differences in their styles. Different styles do exist, said Ms. Immer in a telephone interview Monday, and part of her preparation for next spring's international contest will be working and studying with different sommeliers.
Her preparation will also include practicing her French, making herself more comfortable with the different kinds of equipment used in serving, and blind tasting practice. She said she found the blind tastings and the practical exam the most difficult.
Ms. Immer worked as an investment banker in New York before switching careers to indulge her "real passion," wine. She has included some Long Island wines on the lists where she currently works, she said, including a Lenz Chardonnay, a Palmer merlot, and SagPond's Domaine Wolfer Chardonnay. Limited supply prevents her from including some others that she particularly likes, like Bedell's Reserve merlot and Paumanok's late harvest dessert-style wines.
Ideal Conditions
Following Sunday's competition, Russell Hearn, Pellegrini's winemaker, offered barrel tastings of Chardonnay, cabernet franc, merlot, cabernet sauvignon, and "Select" red wines not yet ready for the bottle to the contestants, judges, and others attending Sunday's event. Fittingly the tasting took place in the cellar among rows of oak barrels.
He also discussed Long Island's ideal growing conditions, which can be attributed to a long growing season, sandy soil that can handle our rainfall, and a maritime climate that keeps the weather mild. The area has been described as having a similar climate and rainfall as Bordeaux, one of France's premier wine-producing regions.
"Perhaps no other wine-producing area has achieved the level of recognition that Long Island has attained in such a brief time," a society release said of choosing the island for the event. Indeed, in relatively few growing years, Long Island wines have come a long way.
Backhanded Compliment
Bob Pellegrini mused that a recent French visitor, though not completely adept at speaking English, tried (he thinks) to pay his wines a compliment when she said, " 'It tastes like real wine.' "
Having the society hold its final competition at his vineyard was an honor for Mr. Pellegrini. "These people know wine. They live and breathe wine," he said.