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News for Foodies 05.03.18

News for Foodies 05.03.18

Local Food News
By
Jamie Bufalino

New on the Scene

The Quiet Clam 2.0, a seafood-centric restaurant, opened on Saturday in the East Hampton location formerly occupied by Service Station. The restaurant’s name references an earlier eatery at the spot, the Quiet Clam, which operated there for many years before the space became Nichols in the late 1990s. According to the Facebook page for the Quiet Clam 2.0, the restaurant will be open year round for lunch and dinner, and serve brunch on Saturdays and Sundays. Word is that it’s run by the family that ran the original Quiet Clam, but calls and messages to the restaurant had not been returned as of Monday.

A new seafood takeout restaurant called Hooked has opened in Montauk. The owners are Brian Mooney, who worked at the Clam Bar at Napeague for more than two decades, and his wife, Gillian, formerly a co-owner of Herb’s Market. The restaurant, which moved into the storefront at 34 South Etna Avenue that was previously occupied by the Red Hook Lobster Pound, serves starters such as crab bisque, steamed mussels, and peel-and-eat shrimp. It offers raw bar items such as clams and Montauk Pearl oysters. Seafood entrees include whole steamed lobsters, grilled swordfish, tuna poke bowls, and fish tacos. Non-seafood options such as salads, burgers, ribs, and a grilled chicken sandwich are also available. The restaurant is open from 11:30 a.m. to 8 p.m. daily.

Also in Montauk, Mtk Lobster House opened in late March at 716 Montauk Highway, above Plaza Surf and Sports. The restaurant specializes in “fast-casual seafood,” according to its Facebook page, and menu items include lobster rolls, lobster and fish tacos, fish and chips, and quesadillas. It is open Monday, Wednesday, and Thursday from 11:30 a.m. until 9 p.m., and until 10:30 on Friday and Saturday. Brunch is served starting at 9 a.m. on Saturday and Sunday.

 

Cinco de Mayo Specials

La Fondita in Amagansett will celebrate the Mexican holiday of Cinco de Mayo with a selection of specials served all day on Saturday. Menu items will include a variety of tamale entrees for $12.50, and chiles en nogada for $16. The latter dish features a poblano pepper filled with cheese and topped with walnut cream sauce and pomegranate seeds. It will be served with rice, refried beans, and tortillas.  

 

Duck Dinner

Almond in Bridgehampton will hold a seven-course duck dinner with Channing Daughters rosé pairings next Thursday at 7 p.m. The cost will be $85 per person, plus tax and gratuity. Reservations are by calling the restaurant. 

 

This Week at the Eagle

The featured artists at Wednesday’s A Night Out With event — a collaboration between the Golden Eagle Studio and Nick and Toni’s restaurant in East Hampton — will be Virva Hinnemo and George Negroponte, who will lead a collage workshop. The event starts at 5:30 p.m. at the Golden Eagle on North Main Street in East Hampton and will be followed by a two-course dinner at the restaurant next door. The cost is $75 and includes the class, supplies, dinner, tax, and tip. Advance registration is on the store’s website; participants have until noon on Monday to register. 

 

Open for the Season

Starting tomorrow, Gosman’s Dock restaurant in Montauk will serve lunch and dinner daily, except on Tuesdays. Beginning Memorial Day weekend, the restaurant will be open seven days a week.

 

Wine Tasting

Wainscott Main Wine and Spirits will hold a workshop focusing on wines from the Finger Lakes region on Wednesday from 5:30 to 7 p.m. Advance registration is by calling the store. 

 

And Finally

Reservations are now being accepted for indoor dining at the EMP Summer House, the East Hampton outpost of Manhattan’s Eleven Madison Park restaurant. EMP is on the corner of Montauk Highway and Spring Close Highway. Only American Express Card members can make reservations at the eatery, which opens for the season on May 25.

Seasons by the Sea: Hats, Horses, and Hooch

Seasons by the Sea: Hats, Horses, and Hooch

A Kentucky “hot brown” sandwich, above, often follows a day or night of drinking the bourbon-heavy mint juleps seen in the background.
A Kentucky “hot brown” sandwich, above, often follows a day or night of drinking the bourbon-heavy mint juleps seen in the background.
Laura Donnelly
Muddle some spearmint in bourbon in preparation for that most deadly of cocktails, the mint julep
By
Laura Donnelly

Saturday is the 144th Kentucky Derby, a.k.a. Run for the Roses, dubbed “the most exciting two minutes in sports.” I love horses and I love the Kentucky Derby. I start to study the field about a week ahead of the race, which is pointless for a novice like me, because as Charlie Whittingham, a trainer, once said “racehorses are like strawberries, they can go bad overnight.” 

Between the time I wrote this, the time you pick up your paper, and the post time (6:34 p.m. Saturday) everything will have changed.

Derby Day is also an excuse to polish the silver julep cups, whip up some Southern food, specifically burgoo, hot browns, and Derby pie, and muddle some spearmint in bourbon in preparation for that most deadly of cocktails, the mint julep. If this drink is too strong for you, there is also the Oaks Lily, or Blush Lily, basically a version of the Cosmopolitan. Last year at Churchill Downs in Louisville, Ky., over 120,000 mint juleps were served and about 40,000 Blush Lilys.

Ninety percent of the ladies who attend the Derby wear big, flowery hats. It’s all about hats, horses, and hooch!

While living in Virginia, one of our best friends was Lisa Thompson, a born and bred Louisvillian. Her father, Buddy, raised thoroughbreds and had a bourbon distillery. She is one of the best cooks I know, and worked at a horse hospital near their farm in Leesburg, so she and her husband, Johnnie, really know their stuff when it comes to the Derby.

If you want to host a Derby party, just about any Southern food will do: deviled eggs, ham biscuits, fried chicken, greasy beans, tea sandwiches, cheese straws, pimento cheese spread, bourbon balls. The aforementioned Kentucky “hot brown” is more of a late-night-after-dancing-til-1-a.m. dish. Lisa would often serve this for Sunday lunches.

While researching recipes for this dish (named after the Brown Hotel in Louisville), I came across some ridiculous variations. You do not put pimentos on the sandwich, nor should you make the Mornay with heavy cream. Oof. Basically, it is Texas toast (thick toasted white bread), topped with roast turkey breast, sliced tomatoes, and Mornay sauce, with crisp slices of bacon crisscrossed on the top. A garnish of chopped fresh parsley and a sprinkling of paprika give this somewhat unattractive dish some pinkies-in-the-air class . . . I suppose.

In the 1920s, over 1,000 guests would attend the Brown Hotel’s nightly dinner dance. After hours of dancing, they’d wander into the restaurant for ham and eggs, but that became boring after a while. The chef, Fred Schmidt, is credited with the open-faced sandwich invention. The Mornay sauce should be simple bechamel to which you add grated Parmesan or pecorino cheese.

Kentucky burgoo is another classic Derby day dish, it consists of three meats — usually pork, beef chuck, and chicken — combined with corn, lima beans, onions, carrots, celery, and okra. Like many Southern dishes, it is cooked and cooked and cooked in a big cast- iron kettle until it is a thick brown concoction. They say “a burgoo is just a stew if you can’t stand a spoon up in it.”

To make a Derby pie, simply follow your favorite recipe for pecan pie and add about three-quarters cup of semi-sweet chocolate chips to the pecan filling before baking. Don’t have time? Tate’s Bake Shop in Southampton makes a fine version of it.

For those who don’t give a hoot (or a hoof) about the Kentucky Derby, Saturday is also Cinco de Mayo. This is the annual celebration of the Mexican army’s victory over the French empire at the Battle of Puebla, May 5, 1862, under the leadership of Gen. Ignacio Zaragoza.

Get your avocados today so they’ll be ripe enough to make guacamole on Saturday. Some other menu ideas are queso fundido, a rich, cheesy dip, red chile chicken enchiladas, chipotle shrimp tostadas, pork carnitas, margaritas, and a simple and silky caramel flan.

When I place a bet on a horse on Saturday, it may be for no other reason than his or her name, or the color of the jockey’s silks. I’m rooting for Mendelssohn, because I have a crush on the actor Ben Mendelsohn, who played a bad guy on Netflix’s “Bloodline.” But Bolt D’Oro’s jockey, Victor Espinoza, will be wearing some snappy orange and purple silks, so maybe I’ll root for him.

Here are some recipes to inspire you for the most exciting two minutes.

Click for recipes

Tate's to Be Sold for $500 Million

Tate's to Be Sold for $500 Million

Tate's Bake Shop on North Sea Road in Southampton will remain open.
Tate's Bake Shop on North Sea Road in Southampton will remain open.
By
Taylor K. Vecsey

The snack food giant that produces Oreo cookies, among other household names, announced plans to purchase Tate's Bake Shop, a company started in Southampton by Kathleen King, for approximately $500 million.

On Monday, Mondelēz International said it had reached an agreement with the Riverside Company, a global private equity firm, and other shareholders, including Ms. King to acquire the company, best known for its thin-and-crispy cookies. Tate's baked goods are distributed across the country and sold online.

The deal is expected to close this summer.

Mondelēz International, based in Deerfield, Ill., said it will operate Tate’s as a separate business and that the senior leadership at the company will continue to run the business from its headquarters on Long Island, including its Bake Shop on North Sea Road in Southampton Village. 

Tate’s will continue to produce all products at its current manufacturing facility in East Moriches.

Ms. King began selling small batches of her chocolate chip cookies at her family's farmstand at North Sea Farms at the age of 11. She opened Kathleen's Bake Shop in Southampton at 21, and began selling a broader range of cookies and pies. Soon Kathleen's Cookies was sold in gourmet food shops throughout Manhattan and Long Island.

After she took on partners and a protracted legal battle ensued, a court ruled Ms. King could not use her own name for the business. She started a business again under the name Tate's Bake Shop, a nod to her farmer father, the late Richard (Tate) King, in 2000.

“My father represented everything to me that the bakery should be about, especially integrity. And tenacity," Ms. King told EAST Magazine in 2016.

In 2014, the Riverside Company purchased a majority stake in Tate's for a purported $100 million. Ms. King remained with the company in an advisory role to develop new recipes.

Tate’s has become one of the fastest growing biscuit brands in the country. According to a press release from Mondelēz International, the brand’s sales have quadrupled over the past five years.

“Tate’s has demonstrated exceptional and very profitable growth, and we look forward to working with the Tate‘s management team to expand distribution and build upon that success," said Dirk Van de Put, chairman and chief executive officer. 

“We’re thrilled and humbled to be joining a portfolio of some of the world’s most well-known and successful snacking brands,” said Maura Mottolese, C.E.O. of Tate’s Bake Shop. “Consistent with Mondelēz International’s purpose to create more moments of joy for consumers, providing an authentic, delicious indulgence has been at the heart of Tate’s Bake Shop since Kathleen first opened her storefront nearly two decades ago. Now, together with Mondelēz International, we’ll have the opportunity to take Tate’s to the next level and offer our cookies and baked treats to many more consumers across North America.”

Mondelēz International boasted net revenues of about $26 billion in 2017, and is considered a world leader in cookies, chocolate, gum, candy and powdered beverages. Some of its brands include Oreos, Chips Ahoy, Ritz Crackers, belVita biscuits, Cadbury Dairy Milk and Milka chocolate, and Trident gum.

News for Foodies: 03.22.18

News for Foodies: 03.22.18

Local Food News
By
Jamie Bufalino

For Passover and Easter 

The Art of Eating in Bridgehampton is offering special catering menus for the upcoming religious holidays. The prepared main dishes for Passover include slow-braised brisket with roasted potatoes and seasonal vegetables, and a whole grilled, boneless salmon stuffed with leeks, citrus, fennel, and grapes. The Easter main dishes include a boneless rosemary-mint-basil-crusted leg of lamb, and a brown sugar glazed Nueske ham. Orders must be placed 72 hours in advance.

Stuart’s Seafood Market in Amagansett is offering Passover specialties including gefilte fish, kosher noodle kugel, brisket, chopped liver, and matzo ball soup. Advance orders are recommended. 

This Week at the Eagle

The featured speaker at Wednesday’s A Night Out With event — a collaboration between the Golden Eagle Studio and Nick and Toni’s restaurant in East Hampton — will be Lesley O’Brock, a mixed-media artist who will lead a workshop on creating monoprints with a gelatin plate. The event starts at 5:30 p.m. at the Golden Eagle on North Main Street in East Hampton and will be followed by a two-course dinner at the restaurant next door. The cost is $75 and includes the class, supplies, dinner, tax, and tip. Advance registration is on the store’s website.  

Sauerkraut Workshop

Nadia Ernestus, a health coach who launched the Hamptons Brine brand of artisanal sauerkraut, will hold a cooking demonstration at Provisions in Sag Harbor on Wednesday from 6:30 to 8 p.m. Advance registration is requested by calling the store.

Sharing the Risks, and the Harvest

Sharing the Risks, and the Harvest

At the height of summer, Amber Waves grows typical farmers market offerings but ups its game with unusual finds such as tomatillos and okra.
At the height of summer, Amber Waves grows typical farmers market offerings but ups its game with unusual finds such as tomatillos and okra.
Laura Donnelly
Paying now for produce later
By
Jamie Bufalino

For those looking forward to having a summer filled with fresh produce from an East End farm, now is the time to sign up for a community-supported agriculture program, or C.S.A. 

The C.S.A. system works by having members pay an up-front fee to cover the cost of planting and harvesting in return for receiving a weekly share of farmer-selected produce. “It takes the work out of deciding what to eat because the expert in the field has made that choice for you,” said Amanda Merrow of Amber Waves Farm in Amagansett. Many farms also offer recipe suggestions and enticing add-ons such as locally made cheeses and breads. Some farms, such as Amber Waves and Quail Hill Farm, grant members access to areas of the farm where they can pick herbs, flowers, or produce themselves. “It takes my breath away seeing so many people in the field enjoying themselves,” said Ms. Merrow. 

Below are the details on what a few of the local C.S.A. programs will offer this season.

 

Amber Waves

In addition to supplying a weekly box of fresh produce and its pick-it-yourself perk, Amber Waves holds events designed to make members feel like a part of its farming community. There is a new member orientation, during which customers will get a tour of the fields, and three potluck dinners are planned for the summer, with Amber Waves supplying music and pizzas made in the farm’s brick oven, and members taking salads and other side dishes. 

Members will also receive a discount at the farm store, a weekly newsletter, and a handbook filled with cooking suggestions. The farm’s programs, which will begin the week of Memorial Day, range from a 10-week membership (July 4 through Labor Day) for $550 to 26 weeks (Memorial Day through Thanksgiving week) for $1,050. Members are required pick up their boxes at the farm on Tuesdays, Fridays, or Saturdays. Full descriptions of the various share types can be found at amberwavesfarm.org.

 

Balsam Farms 

Members of Balsam Farms’ C.S.A. program, which begins May 24, will receive a weekly selection of fresh vegetables, greens, and herbs. Last May, for instance, the produce included asparagus, kale, arugula, lettuce, garlic, chives, parsley, and a head of bok choy. Balsam also offers recipes and occasionally throws in bonus products such as pesto, jam, and tomato sauce prepared from farm produce. 

The membership prices range from $500 for 15 weeks to $860 for 26 weeks. Add-ons of fruit, cheese, bread, flowers, and prepared foods will also be available for an additional cost. Shares are picked up at Balsam’s farm stand in Amagansett. During pickup times, members get 10 percent off additional produce at the stand. Sign up is online at balsamfarms.com.

 

Sang Lee Farms

Sang Lee Farms on the North Fork, which is certified organic, offers C.S.A. shares of vegetables, fruit, cheese, and prepared foods made in-house. Members can purchase either a full share of vegetables, which will include 8 to 12 different items per week for $680, or a half share, which offers 5 to 8 items for $480, including delivery to the farm’s pickup site at the East Hampton Farmers Market. For an additional fee, the farm will also provide home delivery. The 24-week program will start on June 5 and run through Nov. 15. 

The fruit and cheese shares will extend over 18 weeks, spanning from July 3 to Oct. 31. Members will also receive 10 percent off purchases at Sang Lee farm stands, a weekly newsletter featuring recipes and storage tips, and access to events such as herb workshops and tomato or strawberry picking. The farm’s website is sangleefarms.com.

 

Quail Hill Farm

The Peconic Land Trust’s Quail Hill Farm in Amagansett is the oldest C.S.A. on the East End and one of the first in the country. It offers both individual and family shares in its program, which will begin on June 9 and extend into October. The farm gives members a choice between self-harvesting on Tuesdays and Saturdays, or picking up a box of produce. Flowers and herbs are not included in the box shares. Prices range from $375 for an individual box share to $960 for a family summer share. There is also a $50 first-time member fee. Members will receive a handbook with harvesting tips, and a guide to the fruits and vegetables available at various stages of the summer. The farm also hosts various events for members and friends throughout the season. Sign up is online at peconiclandtrust.org. 

Share the Harvest Farm

Share the Harvest Farm, which donates a sizable portion of its produce grown on Long Lane in East Hampton to food pantries and other nonprofits, has a C.S.A. geared to lower-income working families. Now in its third year, the working families C.S.A. will run for 14 weeks, with memberships starting at just $150 for families with incomes of $40,000 or less. The cost for those with household incomes of $40,000 to $70,000 is $250. Pickups will be on Friday afternoons from June 29 through Sept. 28. Memberships are limited, with priority given to those with the lowest incomes and returning members. Applications can be found online at sharetheharvestfarm.org. 

 

Also Available

Although the nonprofit Bhumi Farms, which has moved from East Hampton to Bridgehampton, will not have a C.S.A. program this year, its heirloom tomato farm will be offering a salad C.S.A. starting at the beginning of August and lasting through Labor Day. For a cost of $25 per week, a member will receive tomatoes, lettuce, cucumbers, and hardy greens. Frank Trentacoste, Bhumi’s farmer, said he will also offer a “Friday night love basket,” which will consist of tomatoes, fresh mozzarella, a baguette, and basil at a cost of $25 per week. Mr. Trentacoste can be phoned at 646-496-8364 for details and to sign up.

The Green Thumb organic farm in Water Mill offers a different sort of C.S.A. model in which members who pay an up-front cost choose a set amount weekly of produce, flowers, and garden plants from the farm’s stand on Montauk Highway. Calls to the farm for details and this year’s prices had not been returned as of press time, but a rough outline of the program can be found online at greenthumborganicfarm.com. 

Green Thumb offers box share deliveries to Huntington, Queens, and Brooklyn.

Moby's to Open at East Hampton Point

Moby's to Open at East Hampton Point

The restaurant at East Hampton Point, soon to be home to Moby’s, has indoor and outdoor bars and boasts expansive views of Three Mile Harbor.
The restaurant at East Hampton Point, soon to be home to Moby’s, has indoor and outdoor bars and boasts expansive views of Three Mile Harbor.
By
Jamie Bufalino

East Hampton Point, the resort complex known for its expansive views of Three Mile Harbor, will lease out its restaurant for the 2018 and 2019 summer seasons. Last week, Michael Capoferri, the resort's general manager, wrote a letter to vendors and clients announcing that Moby's, a restaurant that found success with two previous local pop-ups, would be taking over the space.

Lincoln Pilcher, one of the restaurateurs behind Moby's, said that he and his business partner, Nick Hatsatouris, had heard through real estate contacts that the East Hampton Point space was available and decided the site's waterfront locale, which includes a marina, would be perfectly suited to the next iteration of Moby's.

"We've been looking for a space that has that view, and the sunsets, and the boats," said Mr. Pilcher. "We've always had that nautical cachet to the brand."

Mr. Pilcher and Mr. Hatsatouris, who are both Australian, first ventured onto the East End culinary scene in 2012 with the beachside eatery Moby Dick's, which overlooked Lake Montauk. In 2014, they moved the restaurant to a more high-profile spot at the corner of Spring Close Highway and Pantigo Road in East Hampton and shortened its name to simply Moby's. Both restaurants offered a laid-back vibe with outdoor dining, active bar scenes, and menu items ranging from wood-fired pizzas to a selection of fish dishes. The duo plans to stick with the same game plan at East Hampton Point.

"It will still be coastal Italian cuisine," said Mr. Pilcher, who added that the dishes would be "a little bit more elevated," in keeping with the new location's more refined atmosphere. 

Determined to have the restaurant opened by Memorial Day, Mr. Pilcher has his design team working on the decor for the space, and he's in the process of staffing up, hoping to reunite with former colleagues who worked at earlier incarnations of Moby's. He is also plotting out the perfect way that future customers can take advantage of his new venue's best attributes.

"People can boat in, watch the sunset, eat a beautiful pizza, and drink some rose," he said.

News for Foodies: 03.29.18

News for Foodies: 03.29.18

Local Food News
By
Jamie Bufalino

Passover and Easter Dining 

Nick and Toni’s in East Hampton will offer Easter and Passover specials this weekend. Tomorrow and Saturday, the Passover dinner menu will include an appetizer of matzo gnocchi in a vegetable chicken broth for $14, and an entree of citrus-braised short ribs for $36. The Easter Sunday specials will include spring pea agnolotti for $19 and a grilled boneless lamb loin for $42, available on both the brunch and dinner menus.

The Passover specials at Rowdy Hall in East Hampton will include matzo ball soup for $12 and a red-wine-braised brisket for $28, available both tomorrow and Saturday evenings. 

Baron’s Cove in Sag Harbor will offer a special prix fixe Easter brunch menu from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. on Sunday. The price is $38 for adults and $18 for children. 

There will also be an Easter egg hunt and other games on the hotel’s lawn starting at 10:30 a.m.

The 1770 House in East Hampton will begin serving dinner at 4 p.m. on Easter. The restaurant’s regular a la carte menu will be available as will a selection of holiday specials including roast prime rib of beef and rack of lamb.

The Montauk Yacht Club will serve a three-course prix fixe dinner from 4 to 8 p.m. on Sunday. Menu items will include clam chowder, roasted leg of lamb, and branzino. The cost is $34.99 per person.

Lobster avocado toast, squid ink rigatoni, and three variations of eggs Benedict will be on the Easter brunch menu at the Highway Restaurant and Bar in East Hampton. 

Bell and Anchor in Noyac will serve Easter brunch from 11:30 a.m. to 3:30 p.m. on Sunday, with special dishes such as duck hash with egg and frisée, lobster eggs Benedict, grilled pork chop with hoisin, roasted potatoes, bok choy, and pickled shiitake, along with other menu items all served a la carte. Reservations have been requested.

 

Chicken and Beer Dinner

Almond in Bridgehampton will team up with Iacono Farm and the Port Jeff Brewing Company to present a six-course spring chicken and beer dinner next Thursday starting at 7 p.m. The cost of the dinner will be $65 per person.

 

This Week at the Eagle

The featured speaker at Wednesday’s A Night Out With event — a collaboration between the Golden Eagle Studio and Nick and Toni’s restaurant in East Hampton — will be Paul Davis, an illustrator whose work has appeared in magazines, on record album covers, as well as in museums and galleries. The event starts at 5:30 p.m. at the Golden Eagle on North Main Street in East Hampton and will be followed by a two-course dinner at the restaurant next door. The cost is $75 and includes the class, dinner, tax, and tip. Advance registration is on the store’s website. 

 

Shopping for a Cause

Sam’s Beverage Place in East Hampton will honor Autism Awareness Day on Monday by donating 10 percent of the store’s sales to Autism Speaks, an organization that helps advocate for and support people with autism as well as their families.

Seasons by the Sea: Desserts From a Bygone Era

Seasons by the Sea: Desserts From a Bygone Era

An angel food cake can be flavored with lemon, coffee, or other essences and served with blueberries, as in this version of the dessert classic.
An angel food cake can be flavored with lemon, coffee, or other essences and served with blueberries, as in this version of the dessert classic.
Laura Donnelly
Back to basics
By
Laura Donnelly

I woke up the other morning dreaming of pineapple upside-down cake. Who makes that kind of dessert anymore? How about angel food cake, that light, bright white, airy confection that you have to hang upside down on the neck of a bottle to cool after baking?

I used to make these retro, nostalgic desserts at the Laundry restaurant in East Hampton 20-something years ago, along with lemon pudding cakes and sticky toffee date cakes. They were the calf’s liver and onions of the dessert menu, something people just weren’t used to seeing anymore, but had an occasional craving for. At least the sticky toffee date cake lives on on many local restaurant menus, and in one of the Barefoot Contessa cookbooks.

The method of putting sugar and fruit in the bottom of a skillet (or spider as it was once called), topping with cake batter, then flipping over after baking, is several hundred years old. When an engineer working for James Dole invented a contraption in 1911 that cored and sliced pineapples into pretty rings, the cake came shortly after. The oldest recipe found for pineapple upside-down cake is from a 1925 Gold Medal flour ad. To find my favorite recipe, dig out your “Joy of Cooking.”

Angel food cake is believed to have been invented in the late-19th century. It is kind of a riff on sponge cake or snowdrift cake. When rotary egg beaters were patented in 1865, the laborious chore of beating egg whites to frothy peaks became easier. According to Evan Jones’s “American Food: The Gastronomic Story,” the cake may have originated with the thrifty Pennsylvania Dutch folks in the southeastern part of that state. They were making lots of egg noodles with yolks and didn’t want to waste the whites. This theory is supported by the proliferation of bundt pans in the area.

The recipe I used for angel food cake was originally meant to be coffee flavored, but I switched it to lemon and served it with homemade white peach sorbet, which would come out a pretty, pale pink. It was a light, fruity, no-fat dessert, perfect for summertime. Of course you could make it more devilish with something called “church spread,” a ghastly sounding concoction of molasses, corn syrup, peanut butter, and marshmallow creme that is slathered over the cake, no doubt by heathens.

Food and fire have obviously been around for a long time, but it could be said that desserts are a cultural invention. The word “dessert” comes from the French verb “desservir,” or un-serve, in other words, clear the table after the meal. But in medieval Europe, desserts were served with meals. How does eel in marzipan sound? Anchovy salad served next to sugar dusted cream pies? For hundreds of years, all the dishes were served at once, “service a la Francaise.” Eventually, the Russian custom of serving one dish at a time and ending with the sweet became more popular, so they get credit for dessert being the last course.

Dried fruit and honey were the first sweeteners used around the world, until the spread of sugarcane. Sugarcane was grown and refined first in India (around 500 B.C.), and when crystalized, it became easy to transport around the world. It was extremely expensive, so only the wealthy could afford it, and even they saved it for special occasions. By the industrial revolution in America and Europe, a lot of desserts became mass-produced, processed, preserved, canned, and frozen. And that is a shame.

How often do you make a dessert from scratch? A pie, a cake, or just cookies to have on hand for family and friends? It does seem to be a lost art, but it needn’t be. Why don’t you root around your recipe file boxes (if such things still exist), and make one of your grandmother’s old-fangled sweets? Everyone will be surprised and delighted you did!

Here are some retro recipes to inspire.

Click for recipies

Eleven Madison Park Will Pop Up Again This Summer

Eleven Madison Park Will Pop Up Again This Summer

The exterior of EMP Summer House on Pantigo Road and Spring Close Highway in East Hampton
The exterior of EMP Summer House on Pantigo Road and Spring Close Highway in East Hampton
By
Jamie Bufalino

EMP Summer House, the East Hampton outpost of Manhattan’s Eleven Madison Park restaurant, will return to its 341 Pantigo Road location for another season starting on May 25. The restaurant will once again offer both indoor and outdoor dining, feature a seafood-centric menu, and accept reservations from American Express cardholders only. 

Last year, Will Guidara and Daniel Humm, the owners of Eleven Madison Park, which has earned three Michelin stars, launched the EMP pop-up to provide a place for their staffers to work during the renovation of the flagship space. The success of the venture convinced the duo to return. They also have plans to open an EMP Winter House in Aspen, Colo., in December.

Backyard dining at the Summer House will be provided on a first-come-first-served basis. The outdoor space will feature games such as Ping-Pong and pétanque. Reservations, which will start being accepted on May 1, will be available for the indoor space but will require a nonrefundable $50 deposit.

 

 



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News for Foodies: 04.05.18

News for Foodies: 04.05.18

Local Food News
By
Jamie Bufalino

Restaurant Week

East End Restaurant Week will begin on Sunday and continue through April 15. Participating restaurants, including Fresno, the 1770 House, and Nick and Toni’s in East Hampton, will be offering a three-course prix fixe menu for $28.95 per person. In Sag Harbor, Lulu Kitchen and Bar and the Bell and Anchor will be participating, as will Union Cantina and Shippy’s Pumpernickels Restaurant East in Southampton. The deal may only be offered until 7 p.m. on some nights. 

Bostwick’s Is Back

Bostwick’s Chowder House in East Hampton will reopen for the 2018 season today. In the weeks leading up to summer, the restaurant will be open Thursdays through Sundays starting at 11:30 a.m.

Wine Class

Wainscott Main Wine and Spirits will hold a wine class focused on sense memory on Wednesday from 5:30 to 7 p.m. Chimene Macnaughton, the store’s general manager and sommelier, and her colleague Luis Marin will be polling participants in advance about memorable wines they recall from past milestones in their lives. The duo will then serve a flight of wines chosen to evoke those memories. Admission is $10. Advance registration is required by calling the store. 

This Week at the Eagle

The featured speaker at Wednesday’s A Night Out With event — a collaboration between the Golden Eagle Studio and Nick and Toni’s restaurant in East Hampton — will be Lesley O’Brock, a mixed-media artist who is making a return appearance, leading a workshop on creating monoprints with a gelatin plate. The event starts at 5:30 p.m. at the Golden Eagle on North Main Street in East Hampton and will be followed by a two-course dinner at the restaurant next door. The cost is $75 and includes the class, supplies, dinner, tax, and tip. Advance registration is on the store’s website.  

Brunch at Springs Tavern

The Springs Tavern in East Hampton will begin serving brunch on Saturdays and Sundays from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. The menu will include breakfast items such as eggs Benedict, avocado toast, and biscuits and gravy, as well as lunch options such as a chicken cutlet sandwich, grilled cheese, and a B.L.T.

Gardening Guidance

The Long Island Regional Seed Consortium will team up with Suffolk Community College to provide continuing education classes focused on gardening and agriculture. The next class, taking place on the college’s Riverhead campus on Saturday from 9 a.m. to noon will teach students how to attract wild bees to their land to help with pollination. Tuition is $45 and registration is on the sunysuffolk.edu website.