Anybody who’s ever made a pie knows they’re not that easy. Making a good piecrust can be a delicate and somewhat complicated process. If you overmix or add too much water, you may end up with a tough one. Even the humidity in the air can wreak havoc with your efforts. Getting the bottom crust to bake thoroughly without burning the rim is nerve-wracking. Choosing what kind of fruit filling can also lead to mistakes: Do you add cornstarch or flour to bind it? How much? You may end up with a runny mess, a glutinous one, or a dry-as-a-bone one. Making a pie takes hours, and when you take into account the cost of good, local fruits and berries, it can also be an expensive endeavor. Is it any wonder then that a favorite shortcut in the summertime is to get a pie at a farm stand or market?

Over the last couple of years I have done random taste tests of fried chicken and pizza by the slice. Since it is impossible (and too expensive) to try every single batch of chicken or pizza slice out here, I scribbled out some names, threw them in a hat, and drew 10. To taste test pies (even more expensive), I used the same process, drawing seven. 

Unfortunately, one of the farm stands that was chosen (Round Swamp in East Hampton) could not set aside a pie for me to pick up, and ran out before I could get there. For the record, I already know their pies and baked goods are excellent. The pies there are $29.99 for the large and $14.99 for the small. I was also crestfallen that the Sag Harbor Bakery, Carissa’s, and the Lobster Roll’s pies didn’t make the random cut, but what can you do? 

 The pies we ended up trying were from Briermere Farms in Riverhead, Tate’s Bake Shop in Southampton, Loaves and Fishes in Sagaponack, Blue Duck (available almost everywhere), Breadzilla in Wainscott, and Balsam Farms in Amagansett. Some of the pies were reheated, some were eaten fresh at room temperature, some were served a la mode with vanilla ice cream. Over a period of a few days we had a number of taste-testers, three of them professional chefs.

I considered limiting the taste test to all blueberry or all peach raspberry, but this was impossible. We tried everything from double-crust apple to streusel crumb-topped sweet-and-sour cherry to mixed berry to the adorable tractor-shaped dough cutout pie of Balsam Farms.

Briermere Farms is a true destination for pie lovers. The storefront is tiny, but the volume produced is staggering and the prices quite reasonable. Right now, Briermere has 33 pies on its summer menu. Most of the fruit used in the pies is grown on the farm and you can buy the pies frozen for future use. Prices range from $17 to $34 with most in the $17 to $19 range. 

It is not known what the crust is made with (a wee bit of lard? Margarine?), but it is a superb one, flaky but substantial with a good balance of salt and sugar. The raspberry pie is my favorite in the summer, and I love the apple dumplings in winter. For the record, I have no problem with a bit of lard or shortening in a pie crust. Butter alone gives it flavor but it is difficult to work with. Shortening mixed with butter lightens it and makes it flaky.

The Balsam Farms pie was by far the cutest, the surface adorned with little dough flowers, letters spelling out B-A-L-S-A-M, and a tractor. At a whopping $42 it was the most expensive pie we tasted. The filling, a mixture of raspberries, blackberries, blueberries, and cherries was absolutely delicious and one of our favorites. Unfortunately, the crust was one of our least favorites, lacking salt, sugar, and . . . flavor. It was rolled thin, cooked all the way through, and had a good “short” texture, but sorry guys, this one needs tweaking. 

Next stop was Breadzilla, where Nancy Hollister insisted I try the apple pie. F.Y.I., for years Breadzilla made the pies for the Halsey’s Milk Pail and they are excellent, especially the streusel topped ones. The pies at Breadzilla are $25. This apple pie had an excellent and sturdy filling, sweetened just enough, and a crust with the perfect amount of salt and fat. 

When I called Sybille Van Kempen at Loaves and Fishes, she agreed to set a pie aside for pickup and even offered to bake one off fresh the next day. Loaves and Fishes pies are all $34. We tried the peach blackberry with a streusel crust, and she told me all pies have an all-butter crust. “We’re European, we don’t use margarine or shortening.” This was absolutely one of the best pies we sampled, from the generous amount of juicy, gingery peaches to the miraculously flaky crust and the oatmeal-laced topping.

At Tate’s Bake Shop in Southampton, most of the pies are $17.95. The raspberry peach had one of the best crusts we tried — short, flaky, and with the perfect amount of salt and sugar. The consistency and flavor of the filling was also excellent.

The Blue Duck Bakery’s sweet and sour cherry crumb-topped pie was the least expensive at $17 and one of the best. The filling had a good blast of tartness from the sour cherries and a good, thick but not gluey, consistency. The bottom crust was flaky and tasty and the streusel topping crunchy.

The final consensus was that the top three pies we tasted were from Loaves and Fishes, Tate’s, and Blue Duck. We also agreed that if the Balsam Farms mixed berry filling could have been baked into any of these other pies’ crusts, it would have made the most perfect, stupendous, splendidly marvelous pie of all.

If you’re up to the task, here are some recipes for you to try at home. Happy baking . . . or buying!

Click for recipes

A rum tasting from 1 to 4 p.m. on Saturday at the Lobster Roll restaurant on Napeague will feature a chance to try Montauk Rum Runners varieties  including coconut-flavored rum, citrus-flavored gin, and honey-flavored whiskey. The spirits can be sipped alone, or savored in cocktails that the Lobster Roll makes using them, including pina coladas, gin and tonics, and Bloody Marys.

Hayground Chefs Dinner

A star lineup of chefs will be preparing dishes for the Hayground Chefs Dinner on Sunday at the Hayground School in Bridgehampton. Among the local participants are Claudia Fleming of the North Fork Table and Inn, Josh Capon of Lure Fishbar, Jason Weiner of Almond, and Christian Mir of the Stone Creek Inn.

The event, beginning at 4:30 p.m., will be hosted by Toni Ross, a founder of the school, and Eric Ripert of Le Bernardin. This year’s honorees will be Tinka Topping, another of the school’s founders, and Bill Telepan, the executive chef of Oceana and of Wellness in the Schools, a nonprofit program. Silent auction items will include a stay at a villa on Mustique and dinners at restaurants including Blue Hill New York, Gotham Bar and Grill, Gramercy Tavern, and Nick and Toni’s.

Tickets start at $1,200. The event benefits the Jeff’s Kitchen culinary and other programs at the school.

New in ’Gansett?

An auction item at the upcoming Hayground Chefs dinner includes an opportunity to attend the soft opening for friends and family of a new restaurant to be opened by the team behind Nick and Toni’s, Rowdy Hall, and La Fondita. While the team is usually mum about new plans, we have learned this: The restaurant will be in Amagansett and will be called Coche Comidor.

Food Truck Derby

Tickets are on sale for another upcoming event at the Hayground School, the sixth annual Great Food Truck Derby sponsored by Edible East End. On Aug. 11 from 4 to 7 p.m., more than a dozen food trucks, and a host of beverage companies will be on hand. A $65 ticket for adults will entitle the holder to one serving at each food truck, and three beverages. Tickets for kids are $20 and include four servings and one drink. V.I.P. tickets, allowing early access to the food trucks, starting at 3:30 p.m., are $100 each.

At Grey Lady

The Grey Lady in Montauk has a nightly happy hour from 5 to 7 p.m. featuring oysters for $1, beers for $5, and house cocktails for $8. The cocktail and beer specials continue during a live music show on Thursday nights from 6 to 9 p.m.

Wine Award

The 1770 House in East Hampton once again this year received a Wine Spectator Award of Excellence for its wine list. The selection, under the aegis of Michael Cohen, the restaurant’s wine director, includes 250 labels and an inventory of 2,500 bottles. The 1770 House has received the award annually since 2007.

Sunset Barbecue

Share the Harvest Farm in East Hampton will hold its eighth annual sunset barbecue in its farm fields at the East End Community Organic Farm on Long Lane in East Hampton next Thursday from 5 to 8 p.m. The evening will start with music and cocktails and be followed by a farm-to-table meal. Proceeds support the farm’s efforts to provide food to local organizations and individuals through donations and an affordable farm share program. Tickets range from $150 to $1,000. In case of rain, the dinner will be held on Aug. 6.

Corn is one of our most precious and plentiful summer treats. Steamed corn on the cob with some good butter slathered all over it is something we look forward to all year, along with that perfectly simple beefsteak tomato sandwich on white bread with mayo.

If straight-up corn on the cob is the Doris Day of summer side dishes, simple and lovely, then Thai corn cakes, Indonesian fritters (dadar jagung), chow-chow, and Mexican street corn are the fiery starlets that steal the show. Isn’t it time you tried some more exotic and unusual methods of serving this most favorite of summer staples?

If you own an ice cream maker, you should make some sweet corn ice cream with chunks of toasted cornbread swirled through it. Serve on corn financiers with a warm blueberry compote. Thai corn fritters served alongside fried fish with sweet chili sauce are a nice change, and the fritters can be made in advance and frozen or refrigerated. Pickle some raw kernels to serve as a relish, fold them into a rich corn pudding to serve with a poached salmon or with a salad for a light lunch or brunch. Mexican street corn is particularly good for barbecues and welcomes many variations on the seasonings and garnishes. For instance, try an Italian version with marjoram, basil, and chives mixed into the mayo, then top with grated Parmesan cheese in place of the cotija cheese.

Corn is one of the plant foods that has to be cultivated and does not grow in the wild. Its closest relative is a grass, and the corn we are familiar with today does not resemble its ancestor “teosinte,” a tiny, hard-shelled pod growing on a stalk thousands of years ago. Scientific evidence shows that early Europeans relied on some form of wheat, fava beans, peas, turnips, onions, radishes, and cabbage. Around 3,500 B.C., corn, beans, hard squashes, tomatoes, and avocados were grown in Central America. Native Americans domesticated nine of the most important food crops in the world, including corn, a.k.a. maize, which now provides over 20 percent of nutrition around the globe.

The archaeological excavation (approximately 10 years ago) of the Balsas region of southern Mexico by botanists from Temple University, the University of Wisconsin, and the Smithsonian Museum of Natural History revealed that people were growing and improving, harvesting and milling, an early form of corn 9,000 years ago. They were also weaving the husks into bedding, clothing, baskets, and toys.

Aside from its more common food uses — masa for making tortillas and tamales, polenta, popcorn, and hominy — corn is also used as animal feed, to make ethanol, cosmetics, corn syrup, laundry starch, alcohol, ink, and even shoe polish.

Once you’ve had your fill of simple, sweet corn on the cob, let it off the leash and try some of these more exotic recipes.

No matter what you make with fresh corn, make sure it is just that, fresh. Keep in mind that as soon as it is picked, the sugar can convert to starch as much as halfway, within a few hours. Same with fresh peas.

Click for recipes

“He was a bold man that first ate an oyster,” wrote Jonathan Swift, just as it was a brave couple that first tried to turn a Long Island potato field into a vineyard. Alex and Louisa Hargrave, neither of whom had ever grown grapes or made wine, bought a farm in Cutchogue in 1973, and in so doing they launched what has become the Long Island Viticultural Area, now home to some 60 wineries and vineyards.

Last Thursday, the East Hampton Library’s Tom Twomey Lecture Series, now in its third year, brought together three of the Island’s leading winemakers, who were asked by Amy Zavatto, director of the Long Island Merlot Alliance, to talk about the region, its wines, and what brought them to the East End from as far away as Germany’s Black Forest and the Napa Valley.

There was a consensus among Kelly Urbanik Koch, head winemaker at Macari Vineyards in Cutchogue, Kareem Massoud, winemaker and partner at Paumanok Vineyards in Aquebogue, and Roman Roth, winemaker and partner at Wolffer Estate Vineyard in Sagaponack, about what defines Long Island wines.

“I think the quick answer is that they’re moderate, well-balanced wines, and they’re delicious,” said Mr. Massoud.

“Well-balanced and refreshing,” said Ms. Koch. “The moderate alcohol is a big thing.”

“The best wines in the world have elegance, balance, and intensity,” said Mr. Roth. “Nobody in America can make more food-friendly wines than Long Island.”

Mr. Massoud said it was “easier for the wine to become more out of balance the higher you go in alcohol. Balance is having fluidity and harmony in the wine and not having any one component stand out more than any other.”

“Small wine regions and cooler climates have finally made enough noise,” said Mr. Roth, charting a typical wine drinker’s progress from Liebfraumilch and Mateus to the “big guns” of California, Australia, and Argentina, to the eventual realization that less can be more.

While the entire East End shares a cool maritime climate, there are minor differences between the North and South Forks, and even on the North Fork alone, where the west is somewhat warmer than the east. “Over in Riverhead we say we’re in the banana belt of the East End,” said Mr. Massoud. The relatively warmer climate allows for fuller ripening of red varietals, he said.

Ms. Koch agreed about the climatic differences, but said that “in the end, those things balance out, because we’re all surrounded by the water and its effect of moderation on our climate.”

A recurring subject was terroir, which refers to the complete natural environment in which a wine is produced, including the soil, topography, and climate. Both the North and South Forks share sandy, gravelly, well-draining subsoils, which are essential to winemaking here, since, unlike many of the world’s best sites, Long Island’s topography is flat.

The three winemakers arrived on the East End by very different paths. Mr. Roth, whose father was a winemaker and wine merchant, began his wine-making apprenticeship in Germany at the age of 16. He worked in California and Australia before returning to Germany. In 1992, Christian Wolffer invited him to Sagaponack.

“One reason I agreed to come was that he said Manhattan was a half-hour away from the Hamptons. It was a little stretch of the truth, but it worked.” Like Macari and Paumanok, Wolffer has always been a family-owned estate. “It’s the passion of the winemaking that counts, not the profit margin.”

Ms. Koch grew up in St. Helena, Calif., in the heart of the Napa Valley, and received a degree in viticulture and enology from the University of California at Davis.

“After working in Napa, I was curious to see what the rest of the world looked like. I came to Long Island looking to stay for a couple of years, but I never went back. I love Long Island, I’m really proud of the region, and I stand behind the wines here. We’re still kind of defining or creating the history of a new region, and that’s pretty cool.”

All the winemakers emphasized the risks inherent in their field. Mr. Massoud’s parents, who founded Paumanok Vineyards in 1983, “took the biggest gamble of all,” he said, “which was buying a potato farm on the East End and planting grapes. They weren’t the first to do that, but today Paumanok is one of a handful of the first estate wineries that are still owned and operated by the founders.”

Ms. Zavatto remarked that some people consider Long Island wines too expensive. Mr. Massoud pointed out that the Island’s geographic distance from any wine center means that a premium has to be paid for every piece of equipment shipped here. “Then there’s the cost of real estate, of property taxes, of electricity, of labor. These are about as high as anywhere in the world.” Ms. Koch noted that there was also a lot of hand-harvesting and care that go into the making of Long Island wines.

“We are a small wine region,” said Mr. Roth. “If a California winery does it, it’s terrific. We have to work twice as hard to prove ourselves.”

When asked about vintages, 2013 and 2014 were cited as ideal, with high yields and high quality. Mr. Roth said his 1995 pinot noir was probably the reason he is still here. “It got us into four-star restaurants in New York — Jean-Georges, Lespinasse, and Chanterelle — and Christian changed the name from Sag Pond Vineyards to Wolffer Estate because of it. Every vintage is special, though, since you give your heart and soul to each one.”

Andy Harris and Sally Richardson of Montauk, the owners of the Stonecrop vineyard in Martinborough, New Zealand, will be pouring tastes of the three wines they produce at Domaine Franey Wines and Spirits on Pantigo Road in East Hampton on Saturday from 4 to 7 p.m. Visitors may sample Stonecrop rosé, sauvignon blanc, and pinot noir.

Karen Lee Classes

Karen Lee, a New York City caterer and cookbook author, will offer two cooking classes in Amagansett this month focusing on using organic and/or local ingredients to make tasty and healthful meals.

Each will take place at a private residence and be limited to 12 students, who will make and then partake of a complete dinner. The first session, to be held next Thursday from 6 to 10 p.m., will center on a menu of steamed artichokes with lemon aioli, grilled local swordfish or halibut with salsa verde, pasta with local cherry tomatoes, green salad with sautéed mushrooms, and peach crisp with crème chantilly. The menu for the second session, on Aug. 27, will be Chinese cuisine, a specialty of Ms. Lee’s.

She is the author of five cookbooks, including “The Occasional Vegetarian” and “Chinese Cooking for the American Kitchen.” The cost is $120 per person. Participants may take their own wine. Those interested may sign up online at karenleecooking.com or by calling 631-267-3653.

Harvest East End

Harvest East End, a Long Island Wine Council event that highlights the wines produced by local wineries, will be held on Saturday from 2 to 7 p.m. at Martha Clara Vineyards in Riverhead. More than 20 Long Island wineries will offer beverages, and hors d’oeuvres by Lombardi’s Love Lane Market will be served. Other food, including local shellfish courtesy of the Long Island Oyster Growers Association, will be available for purchase, as will local artisans’ wares, and there will be a silent auction and a live band.

Tickets are $125 each for a “winemaker experience,” which includes a 2 p.m. opportunity to meet winemakers and a tasting of library and reserve wines, or $75 for general admission, which begins at 3 p.m. Attendees must be at least 21. Proceeds from the event benefit initiatives dedicated to supporting viticulture, sustainable agriculture, and community relations. Founders of the Long Island wine community who have died will be honored at this year’s event. Tickets may be reserved by going to liwines.com.

Restaurant Donates

The Sabrosa Mexican Grill, a chain with restaurants in Water Mill, Riverhead, Ronkonkoma, and Commack, selected the Flying Point Foundation for Autism as its June charity of the month, and has presented the Southampton group with a $500 check.

The restaurants are owned by Jay Andreassi, a Water Mill resident and local contractor, who is also the director of development for the Association for Habilitation and Residential Care of Suffolk. A fifth restaurant is slated to open soon in Hauppauge.

With his restaurant business, Mr. Andreassi has embraced the concept of “eat for good,” which applies both to the healthy and calorie-conscious menu items at the grills and to his monthly donations to various local charities. Recipients have included the East End Young Arts Initiative and the Coalition for Women’s Cancers at Southampton Hospital; more than $50,000 has been donated to nonprofit groups over the last three years.

Community Potluck

Susan and Myron Levine of Sag Harbor will host a Slow Food East End potluck at their house on Aug. 17 from 6 to 8 p.m. Reservations are being taken online at slowfoodeastend.org. There is a fee of $20 per person, or $15 for Slow Food members; in addition, attendees have been asked to take an appetizer, main course, side dish, or dessert made with seasonal local ingredients. Those interested can sign up on the Slow Food East End website.

At Baron’s Cove

On Wednesdays, Baron’s Cove in Sag Harbor is pairing crudite made with farm stand vegetables with rosé for a sip and a nibble, at $18. Also at the same price point are “sliders and suds,” mini sandwiches with a can of Montauk beer, or a half-dozen oysters served with muscadet.

On Sundays, when Alfredo Merat’s band, Europa, plays, a pitcher of the restaurant’s signature rosé sangria is available for $55 from 4 p.m. to closing. There is live entertainment nightly, and a happy hour on Mondays through Fridays from 4 to 6 p.m.

Elaia Estiatorio

95 School Street

Bridgehampton

631-613-6469

Dinner nightly, closed Mondays

Everything about our recent meal at Elaia Estiatorio in Bridgehampton was a delight. From the simple but elegant renovation of the space at 95 School Street to the food to the dinnerware to the friendly staff, the evening was everything one could hope for.

When a manager stopped by our table to greet us, one of my dates for the evening was convinced we had been found out as reviewers. Not so. Chris, or Datenight, as I call him here, is simply still recovering from his traumatic experience a few weeks ago at Le Bilboquet. We assured him that hospitality and friendliness are usually (hopefully!) the norm at a dining establishment.

Elaia Estiatorio is light and white with tall windows all around, skylights, and a huge U-shaped bar. It is divided into two dining rooms. To the right of the entrance, all of the tables are along a wall of banquettes, comfortably cushioned with a pale beige striped fabric. There are some pretty blue and grey plates displayed up high along the walls and some black and white photographs here and there.

A basket of slices of excellent bread was delivered to our table along with a bowl of olives and little bocconcini-sized balls of yogurt to spread on the bread. We began our meal with a variety of spreads, the skordalia, melitzanosalata (eggplant), and fava. We also ordered some fried haloumi cheese, spanakopita (spinach pie), grilled octopus, and keftedes (meatballs).

All three of the spreads were excellent. The skordalia, which is a garlicky potato puree, was light and a bit lemony. The eggplant was slightly chunky with flecks of parsley and cilantro, and the fava spread, made with yellow split peas, was slightly sweet and topped with pickled red onions and capers. They were served with thin, salty olive oil crackers.

The fried haloumi cheese was served as little rectangular logs on top of a sweet grape compote. The spanakopita was as good a version as we’ve ever tried. The filo dough was crisp and thin, the spinach filling was fresh whole leaves mixed with just the right amount of feta and dill. The grilled octopus was also one of the best renditions of this dish. It was super tender and very smoky from the grill. It was served with more of the fava spread, pickled onions, cherry tomato halves, and a few drops of good olive oil and vinegar.

The meatballs were another winner, four tender, fluffy, moist, and perfectly seasoned meatballs on a pool of good tomato sauce and topped with some kefalograveira cheese, a salty sheep’s milk cheese similar to Parmesan or pecorino.

For entrees, we ordered roast chicken with lemon potatoes, grilled lamb chops, baked stuffed eggplant, and leg of lamb cooked in parchment paper. We all agreed that our meals were like going to a good friend’s house for Sunday supper: rustic, tasty without being fussy, simply just right.

The roast chicken was perfectly cooked, tender, and coated with herbs, and the Greek lemon potatoes were an excellent rendition of this classic side dish. The grilled lamb chops came out medium rare as ordered and were beautifully seasoned, served with briam, a combination of potato slices, zucchini, and eggplant.

The stuffed eggplant was a lovely presentation of a small eggplant half stuffed with caramelized onions, peppers, onions, and pine nuts and topped with some Manouri cheese. A side of zucchini wedges was as carefully prepared as every other thing we tasted. Ellen declared it “a fabulous vegetarian dish.” A vinegary red pepper sauce on the plate added some nice zip to the eggplant.

The parchment-wrapped leg of lamb was another beautiful presentation, the charred paper constructed into a perfect round pouch. When opened and emptied onto the plate, the aroma of lamb and herbs wafted up. The lamb was melt-in-your-mouth tender and the potatoes, carrots, and onion served with it had absorbed all the marvelous juices.

As our meal progressed, we noticed how beautiful all of the settings were — some blue-gray pottery, some white stoneware, hammered flatware, small vases on each table with wild flowers, everything adding to the atmosphere and charm. The service on the night of our visit was excellent, which was quite remarkable considering the restaurant had been open for only three weeks.

The wine list is all Greek wines, so we needed help figuring out the grape juice situation. Our waitress, Crystal, was knowledgeable and helpful.

Prices are moderate to expensive. Spreads, salads, and appetizers are $11 to $25, main dishes are $26 to $55, sides are $11, and desserts are $14.

For dessert we tried the baklava, a yogurt with fruit, ekmek kadaifa, and galaktoboureko. The baklava was rolled filo dough filled with walnuts and honey syrup, rather than the usual layered in a sheet pan and cut into squares or diamonds. It was crisp and lightly cinnamon-y.  The yogurt was a rich, creamy swirl topped with sour cherries and toasted sliced almonds. Ekmek kadaifa is comprised of threads of kadaifa (similar to filo dough) baked beneath a milky custard seasoned with vanilla and cinnamon and topped with fresh whipped cream. This was also drizzled with some syrupy cherries. Galaktoboureko is a semolina custard baked in layers of filo dough. This one was delicious and fresh, garnished with a candied orange slice.

Most Greek desserts are super sweet and syrupy and these were no exception, but each one was absolutely divine.

We completed our festive meal in the spirit of the place with glasses of tsipouro, a clear brandy made from grape skins, similar to grappa or marc.

My friend Alex asked a question halfway through our meal that I had never been asked before: “What makes a successful restaurant out here; one that can last all year round?”

 I started to point around the room, “food like this, the little things like these flowers, the friendliness of the staff, warmth and hospitality, atmosphere. This. Just this.”

Elaia Estiatorio is a brand spanking new restaurant. It was filled with happy diners by the time we left, and we all agreed that this is a place with staying power, a place that we would look forward to coming back to.

Le Bilboquet

1 Long Wharf

Sag Harbor

631-808-3767 

Dinner seven days

Let’s begin with the good news: The food at Le Bilboquet in Sag Harbor is excellent. Now permit me to regale you with the gauntlet we had to run to get into the place. 

There are no signs on the front door or anywhere else outside the restaurant. There is no phone number listed, but if you call the New York City location, someone will give you the Sag Harbor number. He or she will inform you, however, that the Sag Harbor spot does not take reservations, and yet, upon our arrival, the hostess asked, “Do you have a reservation?” To which we replied, “We were told you don’t take reservations.” Some peculiar hemming and hawing ensued, with references to technology and booking systems not being in place, yadda yadda. WTF Number One.

WTF Number Two. The front door is locked. You must walk to the back, where the paddock gate, I mean, entrance, is blocked by the Imperial Praetorian Guard. Actually, this big, burly security guard was a delightful fellow who allowed me out of the corral halfway through our meal so I could take a picture of the glorious sunset. The hostess, however, clearly suffers from prosopagnosia, or face blindness, because every time a member of our party made a move, she would stop us and say in a not very friendly way, “Can I help you?” No, thank you, we are already in here, dining in your establishment.

WTF Number Three. The Star’s photographer was told she could not take pictures without clearance. This has never happened before. So my editor said that I had to stealthily take my own pix for this review. This sent me into a frenzy of agita-induced research of First Amendment rights. Here’s what I learned: If you are in a public space you can take pictures; if you are in a privately owned restaurant, you can take pictures, but if you are asked to stop, you must. Gosh, this made me nervous.

So I got all dolled up (so they’d let me in) and my gang and I went at a frightfully early, un-chic hour on a weekday (so they’d let us in) and we got in. But we couldn’t sit outside. I think the outside was for people who had somehow made reservations.

The interior of Le Bilboquet has received a lovely makeover. There are pale wood floors and ceilings, light green tile around a see-through fireplace, celadon and cream bistro chairs, raffia light fixtures, and rosemary and lavender plants inside and out. The restaurant is light and airy, and the outdoor deck wraps around to the back where there is another bar.

After receiving a basket of slices of warm, crusty baguette with a disc of butter, we began our meal with calamari, octopus, tuna tartare, and a crab avocado salad. 

The calamari was a warm dish of frisée, beautifully tenderized squid bits, diced tomatoes, zucchini, peppers, and parsley. It was delicious and just needed a bit of salt. Or as my dining companion Datenight put it: “It had no backup orchestra.” 

The octopus appetizer was a zestier dish with a bed of hummus, a scattering of chickpeas, mellowed slices of red onion, and well charred tentacles. With a few dollops of garlicky aioli and well charred tentacles. With a few dollops of garlicky aioli on the plate and lots of parsley, we all agreed this was an excellent hors d’oeuvre. 

The tuna tartare was beautifully presented. The tall round mound of diced tuna was seasoned with the usual suspects — soy, sesame, and a hint of spice. Some shredded red cabbage and brunois of cucumbers peeked out from the tuna, there was a ring of mild, creamy vinaigrette sprinkled with black sesame seeds around the plate, and it was topped with a crisp, fried wonton round. 

The crab avocado salad was pretty, but this, too, lacked acid and salinity. It had a smooth puree of avocado and tomato on the bottom, a good-sized portion of jumbo lump crabmeat bound in what tasted like a classic crab Louis sauce, and an attractive mound of baby oak leaf and other lettuces with shredded carrot and more parsley. This was also enhanced with a swoosh of the mild vinaigrette.

For entrees, we tried the steak tartare (yeah, I was on a tartare tear that night), black bass, Cajun chicken (one of Le Bilboquet’s signature dishes), skirt steak, and two sides, asparagus and string beans. 

The steak tartare was an absolutely perfect rendition of this classic French dish. It was rich and loosely bound with every flavor shining through, with mustard, capers, perhaps cornichons, creamy from the addition of raw egg yolk, a twirl of anchovy on top, and served with pale, crispy fries and a delicately dressed salad. Best of all, it was served at room temperature, not ice cold.

The black bass was perfectly cooked with skin on, served with some smashed potatoes, wilted bok choy, and a sauce Grenobloise, usually made with browned butter, capers, and bits of diced lemon flesh. This one had a lot of diced tomatoes and parsley. This restaurant is definitely mad for mirepoix and brunois and parsley. 

The cajun chicken deserves to be a signature dish. It was a generous portion of moist, tender, boneless slices of chicken breast bathing in a buttery, spicy sauce. Think Paul Prudhomme’s blackened redfish fad of the early ’80s and add a stick of butter. This was also served with the excellent shoestring fries and a lightly dressed salad. 

The skirt steak was the only semi-dud of the bunch. The steak was tough (as is often the case with skirt or hanger steak), and the chimichurri sauce tasted mostly of mild parsley, not so much of the traditional gutsy additions of red wine vinegar, oregano, and garlic. The sides of asparagus and green beans were quite good, if a bit too al dente. The green beans were romanced with a topping of frizzled shallots.

We had an excellent waiter on the night of our visit, Baptiste, who hails from Paris. There were lots and lots of bussers and runners scurrying about, along with what appeared to be a manager/maitre d’ type, but he never alighted upon tables to greet, nor made any kind of eye contact. He was an attractive fellow, clad in a tight-fitting Euro-hipster suit, and we dubbed him “Milo Ventimiglia via Boogie Nights.” We also spied Phillipe Delgrange, founder of the original Le Bilboquet, who once declared “the Bilboquet was where the most rich and famous came together, but I wouldn’t let everyone in. There was no sign outside and we didn’t answer the phone.” Quel putain Number Four.

A bilboquet is a little wooden toy with a handle with a hole, a string, and a ball. You try to catch the ball in the hole. A company called Les Jouets en Bois describes it thus: “What could be more exciting than these little games that give us great joy when we finally arrive to solve?” A table outside, that’s what.

The menu is short and printed in un petite peu pidgin Francais. It is moderately priced. Les hors doeuvres et les salades are $16 to $27, les poissons et les viandes are $32 to $48, sides are $11, and les desserts are $12.

The desserts we ordered were disappointing. We tried the tarte tatin, chocolate mousse, and lemon meringue tart. The tarte tatin was very soft and sweet and caramely, the apples surrendered to the overdose of sugar, and the crust was soggy-bottomed. The chocolate mousse was very dry, thick, and dense, almost cakey. The lemon tart’s bottom crust was raw, the filling very sweet and not very tart. One wag of a guest said the dabs of bruléed meringue resembled wolf teats, which brought to mind the mythical Lupa Capitolina that suckled the twins Romulus and Remus. Yup, we were amusing ourselves, as the restaurant began to fill with young lasses taking many, many selfies.

At the end of our meal I asked my guests the usual question: “Would you come back?” The answer was a unanimous yes, although the eminently quotable Datenight said “the menu is going to have to retreat from Paris or Deauville in winter and enter central France, perhaps Perigord. It should be warm and countrified for the locals, with wines at half the price they are now.”

Our final thoughts? Keep the food, lose the ’tude.

A potluck dinner will be held tonight at the Peconic Land Trust’s Bridge Gardens in Bridgehampton from 5 to 8 p.m. in conjunction with Slow Food East End. Besides the meal, the evening will feature a guided walk through the property’s edible landscape with Rick Bogusch, the garden manager. Reservations are required through SlowFoodEastEnd.org as space is limited. The cost is $20 per person or $15 for Slow Food and Bridge Gardens members. Attendees must also take a homemade appetizer or dessert made with local ingredients to share. In case of rain, the potluck will be held next Thursday. 

On Winemaking

Three East End winemakers — Roman Roth of Wolffer Estate Vineyard, Kareem Massoud of Paumanok Vineyards, and Kelly Urbanik Koch of Macari Vineyards — will participate in a panel discussion at the East Hampton Library from 6 to 7 p.m. on July 20. 

They will discuss the evolution of Long Island into one of the country’s most important wine regions. Amy Zavatto of the Long Island Merlot Alliance will serve as moderator. After the discussion, there will be a tasting of wines from each of the represented vineyards in the library’s courtyard. The program, part of the library’s Tom Twomey talk series, is free; no R.S.V.P. is required.

Tacos and Clams

This weekend will bring two food events presented under the Dan’s Taste of Summer umbrella. Dan’s Corona MonTaco will take place tomorrow night at Gurney’s Montauk Resort and Seawater Spa. Local restaurants that will serve their own takes on classic Mexican cuisine include 668 the Gig Shack, Tacombi Montauk, South Edison, La Esquina, Street Taco, and Pompano Restaurant. Beverages will include Mexican beer, Spanish cavas, and tequila. Adam Richman, the host of the Travel Channel’s “Man Finds Food,” and the author of “Straight-Up Tasty” will be the host. 

Tickets for the 7:30 to 10 p.m. event are $125 for general admission or $200 for V.I.P. access, which includes an after-party that will take place from 10 p.m. to midnight.

On Saturday, Gurney’s will be the location for Dan’s Clambake MTK, to be hosted by Geoffrey and Margaret Zakarian. Mr. Zakarian is a chef who has appeared on the Food Network’s “Chopped” and “The Kitchen,” and in his newest show, “Cooks vs. Cons.” The author of the cookbook “My Perfect Pantry,” he is the chef and owner of several restaurants including the Lambs Club and the National in New York City.

The menu will include surf and turf dishes prepared by Montauk and Manhattan restaurants such as Duryea’s Lobster Deck, Westlake Fish House, Seamore’s, Scarpetta Beach, and Smokin’ Wolf BBQ.

Early, V.I.P. access begins at 7 p.m. and costs $275, while general admission tickets, at $165, cover the 8 to 10:30 p.m. event. A portion of the proceeds from both events will be donated to the Retreat in East Hampton.  

Four Restaurateurs

Four Long Island restaurateurs will be on the panel at the next “Out of the Question” discussion at the Southampton Arts Center, hosted by Warren Strugatch next Thursday at 7 p.m. Eric Lemonides, a co-owner of the Almond restaurants in Bridgehampton and Manhattan; Mark Smith, a partner in Nick and Toni’s, La Fondita, and Rowdy Hall; David Loewenberg, an owner of Bell and Anchor, the Beacon, and Fresno, and Guy Reuge, the chef and founder of Mirabelle, Mirabelle Tavern, and Le Vin, will discuss “what’s hot and what’s up-and-coming in the food and restaurant world.” After the discussion, there will be a chance to meet and mingle during a reception, at which small bites and desserts from the participants’ restaurants will be served. Tickets are $15.

Duryea’s Lobster Deck

65 Tuthill Road

Montauk

631-668-2410

Daily, noon-10:30 p.m.

We knew going to Duryea’s Lobster Deck on the Sunday night of July Fourth weekend could be a freakout. Navigating the half-naked human traffic by the Surf Lodge was an exercise better suited for the driving skills of Juan Manuel Fangio, arguably the greatest Formula One driver in history.

My guests’ only experience of Montauk up to this point was a breakfast at Anthony’s Pancake House, which we all agreed was a delight because they serve scrapple, I had been to the old Duryea’s a few times and found it to be okay: simple fare, B.Y.O.B., enjoy the view of Fort Pond Bay at sunset.

From the outside, Duryea’s looks the same, just spruced up. It is still a plain, white, wooden building with a fish market attached. Upon entering the Lobster Deck, you notice that the atmosphere has been improved by sturdier teak tables and chairs and sailcloth stretched here and there for shade, and it still has that marvelous view. The inside has an industrial chic look to it, with high ceilings with huge white glass float fishing balls hanging from the ceiling, some high-top stools around a shucking (and napkin folding) bar, and a counter looking out to the water with more stools. We couldn’t get a table outside on this extremely busy night, but were perfectly happy when the friendly hostess seated us immediately at the inside bar. 

Then it starts to get confusing. You get a clipboard with paper menus attached. You circle the items you’d like (for the entire meal), take it to a counter, and then hope for the best. For the people who have said Duryea’s is too expensive, I don’t think they’ve read the menu thoroughly. Many of the items are “family-style,” as in each portion serves two to three people. So an order of corn on the cob at $15 is not so bad considering it is a big bowl of sweet, fresh corncob halves bathed in clarified butter and parsley. Service is also already included in the price, although there is still a humongous tip bowl at the ordering counter, hint, hint. 

We began our meal, and the most excellent people watching, with calamari, tuna tartare, baked clams, and some Montauk Pearl oysters. The calamari was excellent: tender, with a savory coarse cornmeal coating. This was served with eel sauce, nitsume, a Japanese condiment made up of soy, mirin, sugar, and sometimes a bit of dashi, or fish stock. This was an interesting and tasty departure from the usual marinara or aioli accompaniment. We all loved it. 

The tuna tartare was also delicious and a bit different from the frequently used soy and lots of sesame oil versions often served. It was slightly sweet. Perhaps a few drops of eel sauce found their way into the tuna cubes. The tuna was mixed with some ripe avocado bits, julienned radishes, slivers of scallion, and came with some crisped panko bread crumbs and black sesame seeds on top, giving it some welcome crunch. 

The baked clams were quite good: five large ones to a serving, well minced, and seasoned with garlic, parsley, and lemon. The topping looked like breadcrumbs, but wasn’t crisp, so that was the only disappointment with this appetizer. The Montauk Pearl oysters were superb. They are small and briny and sweet at the same time. They were served with cocktail sauce and a creamy aioli, which we didn’t see as being an enhancement. A bit of lemon juice will do.

For entrees, we ordered a lobster roll, the fish po’ boy, corn on the cob, French fries, and a cheeseburger. The lobster roll was as good as you can expect. Served on a potato hot dog bun, it was a generous portion of finely chopped lobster meat mixed with just enough mayo, parsley, and finely minced celery. This was topped with larger chunks of tail and claw meat and served with sweet potato chips and a little cup of very good, lightly dressed coleslaw. 

The fish po’ boy was okay. It was a few small pieces of fluke breaded in the same seasoned cornmeal as the calamari served with shredded lettuce, diced tomato, and tartar sauce on a chewy, dense, ciabatta-style roll that just made it too bready. The delicacy of the fluke was kind of lost in this aggressively hearty bread. 

The corn on the cob was very good, already generously doused with clarified butter and a sprinkling of parsley. The French fries were insanely good. They were shoestring cut, coated with a crispy batter, and perfectly salted. The cheeseburger was cooked to order with good charred flavor, and served with excellent bread and butter pickles along with the other traditional accompaniments of lettuce and tomato. “It’s the little things,” said one of my guests approvingly.

The prices at Duryea’s are moderate, especially for the quality of the food. Prices are $14 to $95 for appetizers, raw bar seafood towers, salads, soups, and small plates. Rolls and shared plates are $18 to $49. Kids menu items are $9 to $18. Sides are $4 to $19. Desserts are $12 to $24. Keep in mind many of these dishes serve two to three people.

The atmosphere is frenetic, the ordering system can be confusing, and a few of the gals behind the ordering counter can be quite brusque. You order all the food at once, including your drinks and dessert. The food is delivered to you as it is ready, but if you want your second beer (or 14th bottle of Domaine Ott rose) you have to go back to the counter, wait in line again, and remind them that you are thirsty. In spite of it being crazy busy and filled to the brim on the night of our visit, all of our food came out in a timely and logical manner. Plus we got some excellent local celebrity sightings: Brian Halweil of the Edible magazines was dining with his wife, Sarah, and some friends (they liked the food, too), and we saw Martha Stewart wandering about.

The dessert options are limited. On this night there were banana split sundaes, fresh fruit, a cookie platter, and warm bread pudding. We know what bananas and other fruits taste like and they had run out of bread pudding, so we only ordered the cookie plate. My attempt to find out if the cookies were made in house caused a flurry of confusion behind the counter, with the answer coming back “yes.” We got a plate with oatmeal, white chocolate chip, chocolate chip, chocolate chocolate chip, and one mystery cookie. They were of the lumpy, undercooked variety and tasted more like David’s Cookies frozen cookie dough cookies than homemade. 

We escaped the scene just after sunset as the scantily clad Svetlanas, Veronikas, and Natalyas were arriving with very smooth and groomed gents. How does one navigate a boardwalk in six-inch stilettos?

The food, the setting, and the renovation of Duryea’s are all a delight. I think we shall return when it is quiet.

The pastry chef at Townline BBQ in Sagaponack, Rachel Flatley, is making homemade ice cream pops this summer. Each features homemade ice cream and embellishments; the varieties include strawberry fluff, vanilla, and chocolate. The bars are $5 each. 

Taste of Montauk

Tickets are on sale for a Taste of Montauk, a smorgasbord of the hamlet’s culinary offerings to be presented at the Montauk Yacht Club alongside Lake Montauk on July 23 from 6 to 9 p.m. Sponsored by the Montauk Chamber of Commerce, the event highlights the fresh seafood and local produce-centric dishes served at Montauk’s restaurants as well as local wine and craft beer. Among the participating restaurants will be Coast Kitchen at the Montauk Yacht Club, Backyard Restaurant at Sole East, the Saltbox, East by Northeast, Joni’s, 668 the Gig Shack, Westlake Fish House, Surfside Inn, Duryea’s Lobster Deck, Arbor, and Swallow East. There will be live music by the Lynn Blue Band. Tickets are $75 in advance and will be $85 at the door, if available.

Seamore’s Opens

New in Montauk is a branch of Seamore’s restaurant from New York City. The restaurant, in the Breakers Hotel, centers its offerings on sustainable seafood, and is the brainchild of Michael Chernow, a co-founder of the Meatball Shop. There is a deck for outdoor dining, and a bar by the pool where patrons can order cocktails, or even take a dip, while waiting for takeout orders. 

Seafood Cooking Class

Slow Food East End will present a two-session course on selecting and cooking sustainable seafood on Aug. 2 and 9 at Jeff’s Kitchen at the Hayground School in Bridgehampton. The sessions, presented by Al Goldberg, a fisherman, amateur chef, and Slow Food leader, will cover the basics of prepping and cooking fish, and the preparation of fish dishes including ceviche, chowder, and roasted whole fish. Each session will include a dinner of what is prepared. Reservations may be made on the Slow Food website; a maximum of 15 students may attend. The cost is $100 per class, or $75 for slow food members. 

Last Thursday’s Slow Food East End community potluck at Bridge Gardens in Bridgehampton was rained out, and has been rescheduled for tonight from 5 to 8 p.m. The evening will include a guided walk through the garden of edible plants. The cost is $20 per person, or $15 for Slow Food members, and the contribution of a dish that serves six to eight and is made from local fresh ingredients. Sign-up is through the Slow Food website, where one can find a listing of the dishes fellow diners intend to take. 

Conca d’Oro Sold

The folks from LT Burger in Sag Harbor have reportedly purchased the village’s iconic pizzeria, Conca d’Oro. Word is that plans don’t include too much change, though burgers will be added to the menu. 

Mecox Bay Dairy Store

The Ludlow family of Water Mill will have a grand opening of the Farm Store at Mecox Bay Dairy on Sunday from noon to 3 p.m. featuring a barbecue, tastings of the dairy’s cheeses, and farm tours. 

Supper Club

Stefanie Sacks, the author of “What the Fork Are You Eating” and a culinary nutritionist, will present three themed suppers in the barn at Good Water Farms in Bridgehampton in the coming weeks. Each will feature nutritious and tasty dishes using local and seasonal ingredients, served family-style with beer, wine, and other refreshments. The series will begin on Tuesday from 6 to 9 p.m. with a vegetarian meal; a pescatarian menu will be served on Aug. 15, followed by an omnivorian meal on Aug. 29. The cost is $165, and reservations are essential as there is space for only 16 people. 

Ms. Sacks also offers Reboot Food 4 Grown Ups cooking classes to inspire a healthy revamp of eating habits and provide instruction in cooking techniques. The next session, with a theme of healthy snacks and desserts, will take place on Monday at Scoville Hall in Amagansett from 3 to 6 p.m. The cost is $150, which includes recipes and an apron. A discussion will be followed by hands-on cooking instruction. 

Reservations for the dinners or classes may be made at Ms. Sacks’s website, Reboot-Food.com.