Skip to main content

News for Foodies 10.22.15

News for Foodies 10.22.15

Local food news

Fall Food Festival

The Amagansett Food Institute’s fall festival at the Amagansett Farmers Market on Saturday will have much to offer foodies of all ages. Among the highlights of the noon to 4 p.m. event will be a hands-on workshop on preserving fall foods with Laura O’Brien of Josephine’s Feast, who will share her quick-pickle method. The cost is $5, and this is the only part of the festival for which advance registration is requested. Spaces can be reserved by emailing [email protected].

All afternoon there will be food and drink from the Sea Bean food truck out of Montauk, the Madeline Picnic Co., Gula Gula Empanadas, and Joe and Liza’s Ice Cream, as well as live music and activities for kids. Entrance to the festival is free.

Dinner and Movie

Cinephiles rejoice. Rowdy Hall’s dinner-and-movie deal has returned, and what a deal it is. From Sundays through Wednesdays, patrons can get a burger and ticket voucher for the East Hampton Cinema for just $20. On Thursdays, they get a choice of a burger, fish and chips, meatloaf, or mussels for the same price. A pint of select beer adds $5 to the bill, wine $7, and dessert is an extra $7. For those who don’t eat meat, a vegetarian option will be offered as part of the deal on Sundays through Thursdays. The restaurant opens for dinner every day at 5.

Thai at Highway

Starting next week, Thursday nights will be Thai night at the Highway Restaurant. The chef, Anand Sastry, will prepare a selection of authentic Thai dishes each week. An example: wing bean salad, followed by green chicken curry, with coconut ice cream for dessert. The three-course meal will cost $35.

The restaurant, which is on Montauk Highway west of East Hampton Village, is also serving Sunday brunch from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. It is open for dinner Wednesdays through Mondays from 5 p.m. and for lunch on Saturday.

At Fresh

Todd Jacobs, the executive chef at Fresh Hamptons in Bridgehampton, will teach a series of cooking classes starting tonight and continuing on Thursdays through Dec. 3 at 6:45 p.m. Participants can attend just one class for $105 or all six for $575.

The first two classes will focus on raw vegan meals. On Nov. 5 and 12, students will learn to prepare some of Fresh’s signature dishes. Thanksgiving foods will be the subject of the Nov. 19 class, and on Dec. 3, it will be football party food. Spots can be reserved by calling the restaurant or emailing [email protected].

Bell and Anchor Specials

October brings a number of specials at Bell and Anchor in Noyac, including a two or three-course prix fixe from 5:30 to 6:30 p.m. on Saturdays and all night from Sundays through Thursdays. The two-course option, at $30, has just an appetizer and entrée; dessert can be added for $5. Also at the restaurant, Wednesdays are lobster nights, and a prime rib special is offered on Thursdays.

Osteria Salina

Osteria Salina in Wainscott is taking reservations for a Sicilian “carnival” Halloween celebration that will include a buffet dinner from 8 p.m. and dancing until midnight on Oct. 31. The cost is $75 per person including an open bar.

Wine-Tasting Workshop

Andrew Bell, the co-founder of the American Sommelier Association and president of Wine Symphony, will lead the next tasting workshop at Wainscott Main Wine and Spirits on Wednesday at 5:30 p.m. “Since Andrew is a leading wine educator in Manhattan, we like to basically just wind him up and let him go,” said Chimene Visser Macnaughton, the shop’s general manager. The workshop begins at 5:30 and costs $10. Space is limited, so advance reservations are recommended at wainscottmain.com or by calling the shop. On Nov. 4, Kareem Massoud, the winemaker at Paumanok Vineyards on the North Fork, will talk about life in the family business. Upstairs at Pierre’s

Pierre’s Upstairs, a members-only private addition to Pierre’s in Bridgehampton, is ready for prime time, the restaurant announced this week. “Upstairs is discrete, comfortable, and most importantly limited in the number of guests in order to provide excellence and privacy,” the restaurant said in a release.

The space, which opened on Friday, is a lounge and bar on the second floor of the restaurant. Membership is open to regular restaurant customers and those recommended by them. The cost is $5,000 for a “lifetime membership” for couples, which includes a special rental rate of the space once a year for a private event not on a weekend or holiday, and preferred seating in the restaurant. They’ll also get a bottle of Johnny Walker Blue that will be kept in the Upstairs cellar. An annual membership will cost $2,000 per couple, including a $1,500 joining fee, and include a bottle of Champagne on the first visit. Annual membership renewals will be $500. There will also be 30-day memberships at $750 per couple. Lifetime members can take three guests at a time; annual members can take two.

Seasons by the Sea: Four Days in Seattle

Seasons by the Sea: Four Days in Seattle

Seattle’s Pike Place Market is not just for seafood, it also has a great bounty of fresh fungi.
Seattle’s Pike Place Market is not just for seafood, it also has a great bounty of fresh fungi.
Laura Donnelly
The Pike Place Market is a publicly owned national historic district that supports local farmers, small businesses, and fishermen from the area
By
Laura Donnelly

“Why Seattle?” asked so many people when I told them I was whisking my son away for a long weekend recently. “Well,” I’d explain, “I was born in Northern California but have never been to the Pacific Northwest.” But the real answer is that it’s one of the few places my offspring was willing to explore with his old, old, uncool mom.

Ninety percent of my research beforehand was on where to eat. Guidebooks are always out of date, Yelp, TripAdvisor, and OpenTable are usually skewed by the restaurant’s own employees and therefore not that reliable, and our host was not a foodie. I found one grand establishment for our last night, Canlis, for which my son would be required to wear a jacket. Other than that firm plan, we were free to explore the city and all of its culinary offerings.

We stayed four nights in two different hotels, the first two at the Palladian, a recently restored Kimpton hotel that had weird portraits in the lobby of Kelsey Grammer (Frasier!), Dave Matthews, Bill Gates, and Jimi Hendrix, dressed as Napoleons. Our last two nights were at the Edgewater, the only waterfront hotel in the city built for the 1962 World’s Fair and famous for a visit from the Beatles in 1964 during their first world tour. All other hotels in the city refused them. Both hotels are downtown, and more important to me, within walking distance of the Pike Place Market.

The Pike Place Market was established in 1907, but even earlier than that, in the 1800s, the native tribes of the Puget Sound region — the Duwamish, Suquamish, Tulalip, and Muckleshoot — traded and shared their goods. It is now a publicly owned national historic district that supports local farmers, small businesses, and fishermen from the area, including Cambodians, Chinese, Danes, Egyptians, Ethiopians, Filipinos, Greeks, Hmong, Italians, Koreans, Japanese, Laotians, Malaysians, Mexicans, Russians, Sephardic Jews, South Africans, Thais, Turks, Vietnamese, and more. There are also numerous homeless shelters and a lot of low-income housing in the surrounding area, interspersed with a gazillion cranes building high-rises for Amazon, Expedia, and other big companies. Seattle is, without a doubt, the most egalitarian city I have ever visited.

To say I achieved nirvana (Ha, ha. Seattle grunge humor, get it?) at Pike Place Market would be an understatement. I went several times a day: in the morning for breakfast apples, in the afternoon to admire the flower vendors and fish tossers, and just about anytime to sample things I have never tried before, like tayberries, marionberries, and Chukar cherries. I have never seen such a staggering array of mushrooms: cauliflower, lobster, fresh porcini, and chanterelles. There were Kusshi, Totem Point, Kumamoto, and Mirada oysters, averaging $12 to $18 per dozen! Dungeness crabs were in season, but alas, Walla Walla onions were not. Lavender grows well in Washington State as do palm trees. Go figure! Finding good restaurants was a hit or miss experience. There is a local chef, Tom Douglas, who has an empire of eateries, from Greek to Italian to fish to biscuits. We sampled his Dahlia Lounge on our first day and tried Tibetan “tingmos,” steamed breads stuffed with eggplant and other goodies. Most excellent. Another lunch was at Matt’s in the Market, where a little piece of super fresh halibut was served with cauliflower puree, romesco cauliflower, toasted pine nuts, sultana raisins, and a garlicky parsley sauce.

Another great score, food-wise, was Cafe Campagne, renowned for its cassoulet this time of year, which is exactly what we had. It was perfect, served in a piping hot, individual cast iron casserole full of white beans, sausage, and duck, and topped with breadcrumbs.

However, not all of my research resulted in success. On an evening foray into the Chinatown-International District, comprising Chinatown, Japan-town, and Little Saigon, no doubt an area full of delicious restaurants, we experienced an epic fail at a Thai establishment called Green Leaf. A good rule of thumb is go where there are a lot of people. This place was packed. Good sign. Another good rule is: If the place looks filthy, don’t go! We made the mistake of eating there anyway. The dismal food and a staff freakout over a toilet overflowing into the carpeted dining room added to the whole charming experience.

At this point, I realized I couldn’t just keep going to Pike Place Market and admiring the local delicacies. I had to cook. Our host was aghast. “You shouldn’t have to on your vacation!” he yelped. But cook we did, and it was such a treat to fill a bag with pounds of fresh chanterelles and sautee them in butter with shallots. It was heaven to pick out a supremely fresh piece of wild salmon and marinate it with ginger, garlic, honey, and soy sauce.

My son whipped up a spinach salad with pomegranate seeds and toasted walnuts, and we feasted withsome Washington State wine. Other than these food adventures, we did explore the aquarium; the Experience Museum, a Frank Gehry-designed music, sci-fi and whatnot museum; the Dale Chihuly Garden; ride the monorail; stare in wonder at the Gum Wall (yes, it’s an alley covered with chewed chewing gum); visit the Fishermen’s Memorial and the Seattle Locks, and glance at the Space Needle. We only got a brief glimpse of majestic Mount Rainier one day, as it was predictably raining for a good part of our visit. For each tortuous activity my son in-dulged me in (shoe and umbrella shopping, wheeee!), he got to choose another activity. One was a visit to Archie McPhee’s, a crazy shop of gag gifts, costumes, and novelties. Who doesn’t need a Sasquatch Research Kit? Another stop on his list was a bar called Shorty’s, where the walls and ceiling are decorated with creepy clowns and marionettes, the P.B.R.s flow like water, and the booths are pinball machines.

I’d like to say we bonded over a visit to Hashtag, one of the legal marijuana dispensaries, but I probably embarrassed him by proclaiming to the tattooed and pierced salesman that I am a pastry chef, and asking which of these cookies or chocolates was actually tasty and not just some T.H.C.-laden way to get high.

On our last afternoon, we returned to our hotel rooms exhausted and not very psyched for our last meal, at the best restaurant with the best view in the whole city. So we agreed to cancel it and just wallow in our bathrobes enjoying the noisy seagulls outside our windows and order some salads and burgers from room service.

I had hoped our last night would be an opportunity for a mother-son talk, a little delving into his heart to see how he is faring since his father died last year. But that talk didn’t take place. Or as he reminded me on the plane ride home: “Mom, we can do that anytime you want when you come into the city.” Yes, we can, and I suppose we will.

For now, I am just grateful that he was willing to spend four whole days and nights with his mama, exploring, tasting, and learning. Together.

East End Eats: Flawless and Innovative at 1770

East End Eats: Flawless and Innovative at 1770

The 1770 House in East Hampton has several dining options, indoors or outdoors, and “two adorable smiling hostesses” — Ingrid Pizarro and Katherine Sequero.
The 1770 House in East Hampton has several dining options, indoors or outdoors, and “two adorable smiling hostesses” — Ingrid Pizarro and Katherine Sequero.
Morgan McGivern Photos
The service on the night of our visit was impeccable
By
Laura Donnelly

1770 House

143 Main Street

East Hampton

631-324-1770

Dinner, seven days

The first time I dined at the 1770 House it had only been open a few weeks. It wasn’t for a review; it was for a raucous birthday dinner. We were dressed to the nines, the gents wore ties, and we tried to behave ourselves, but we were noisy and happy and delighted to be in this marvelous new restaurant. Upon our departure we apologized to our waiter for being so “lively.” His response was “Oh, no, not at all. We want people to enjoy themselves here.” And that is the 1770 House in a nutshell. Classy, tolerant, and, most of all, delicious.

I reviewed the restaurant when Kevin Penner was at the helm, and now Michael Rozzi, his long ago chef de cuisine at Della Femina, is in charge and keeping this place in tip-top shape. This is one of the few restaurants I have reviewed twice.

My editors at the paper made the reservation for us under the name Larry Donaldson. I’ve never understood why people sometimes make up a fake name that is so close to the real name; it’s a dead giveaway. It’s kind of like a 2-year-old hiding under a blanket. She thinks she’s invisible, but all the grownups know she’s under there. When my cellphone lit up with the number 324-1770, the restaurant calling to confirm our reservation, I panicked and knew they would see my real name. Long story short, full disclosure, I’m pretty sure I was busted.

There are two dining options at the 1770 House. The upstairs is luxurious with comfortable cushioned chairs and a grandfather clock, botanical prints, orchids, and Oriental rugs on the dark wood floors. The tavern downstairs is tiny and cozy and has a more casual menu as an option. There is also a lovely garden dining area, but we opted for the upstairs, indoors.

When we arrived, we were greeted by two adorable, smiling hostesses, always a good sign. At the table we were offered a variety of breads. On this evening it was sourdough rolls and a light-as-a-feather house-made focaccia. Next some superbly fruity, green olive oil is poured into a little dish for dipping.

We began our meal with a special appetizer of fluke tartare and a peach salad with prosciutto. This place always has a fish tartare on the menu (often salmon), and it is the best on the East End. This version had a paper-thin layer of cucumber slices topped with hijiki seaweed, then the fluke tartare, then tobiko, and lastly some little matchstick pieces of magenta and pink radishes. The tartare was bound with a slightly spicy mayo. The cucumbers, hijiki, and tobiko introduced some crunch to the tender fish, and the presentation was as pretty as the dish was tasty: green topped with black, then pink, then green, then pink, with a sprinkling of chopped chives and drizzles of the mayo dressing.

The peach salad was also delightful. It was a tightly bound bundle of the best Balsam Farm arugula, super peppery, wrapped in prosciutto and drizzled with a mild vinaigrette made with Banyuls vinegar and a hint of vanilla. Perfectly ripe local peach chunks were scattered about the plate. Each bite was a bit salty, sweet, and peppery.

For entrees we ordered the striped bass, sea scallops, and a side dish of mushrooms. The striped bass was seasoned and cooked perfectly. The happy surprise was the presence of skin, crisped beautifully. Not every restaurant serves fish with the skin on; it makes some people freak out. The sauce had a generous amount of lobster meat, and the dish was topped with crisp shoestring potatoes. While this dish was wonderful, I think my guest’s sea scallops were even better.

Three plump, perfectly caramelized scallops were set upon a bed of black rice, dotted with tiny slices of crispy pork belly with a puddle of bright orange carrot ginger puree, and topped with slivered snow peas, radishes, and herbs. Again, the flavor, color, and texture combinations were inspired. Sweet scallops and sweet carrots, chewy black rice, rich, salty pork belly, and then the light crunch of snow peas in each bite, were simply divine.

The mushroom side dish was a mixture of sauteed wild mushrooms, rich and earthy, served in its own little black cast iron Le Creuset casserole.

The service on the night of our visit was impeccable. Our waitress, Debbie, knew her stuff, was helpful with our wine selection, a reasonably priced and delicious Viognier, and was able to answer all of our questions, such as “What is that awesome olive oil?” It’s the Jewel of Tuscany. The ever-present manager was there, greeting and charming the guests.

Prices at the 1770 House are high, but worth every penny. Each entree has so many extra treats on the plate, one barely needs to order side dishes. Appetizers are $16 to $24, entrees are $33 to $55, sides are $9, cheese selections are $8, and desserts are $10 to $12.

For dessert we tried the Stella Pollock cherry upside down cake and ricotta cheesecake. Mr. Rozzi tested and tinkered with the recipes for Robyn Lea’s “Dinner With Jackson Pollock” cookbook, so I’m guessing he improved upon the original in the book, a recipe calling for canned cherries in syrup boiled down with cornstarch. Best of all, the plate looked like a Jackson Pollock painting. The cherry upside down cake had puddles of cherry sauce and artful drips and dashes of caramel sauce, crunchy toasted pistachios, and a house-made pistachio ice cream. The cake itself was moist and buttery, almost like a financier.

The ricotta cheesecake was also outstanding, simple, smooth, rich, and creamy with a blueberry compote on top and hazelnut crust.

There wasn’t a single thing about our dinner that could have been improved upon. Mr. Rozzi isn’t just a good chef, his food is innovative. He uses the best of local ingredients and combines them in downright awe-inspiring ways. Flawless would not be too strong a word.

News For Foodies: 09.10.15

News For Foodies: 09.10.15

Local Food News
By
Joanne Pilgrim

Weekly Springs Market

The Springs Farmers Market will continue through September, offering produce, fish, baked goods, flowers, and more — including music and a chance to view exhibits inside Ashawagh Hall — each Saturday from 9 a.m. till 1 p.m.

Best Tomatoes

The top five winning tomatoes from the taste-off last weekend at Quail Hill Farm in Amagansett will be featured for sale at the Amagansett Farmers Market beginning today and for as long as the season lasts. The market is now run by the Amagansett Food Institute, a nonprofit formed to support East End farmers and food producers, and is expected to stay open until December.

At Momi

At Momi Ramen in East Hampton, Monday will bring the beginning of a new schedule. The restaurant will be open from 5 to 11 p.m. on Mondays, Wednesdays, and Thursdays, on Saturdays from noon to 3 p.m. and 5 p.m. till midnight, and on Sundays from noon to 3 p.m. and again from 5 to 10. N.F.L. football games will be screened on Monday nights at Momi, with bar bites specials offered during some games.

Sunsets to Continue

At Bay Kitchen Bar overlooking Three Mile Harbor, happy hour will now take place twice per night. From 5 to 7 and again from 9 to 11, specials at the bar will include $10 glasses of rosé and oysters or clams on the half shell for $1 each. At an end-of-summer party with music on Saturday from 10 p.m. to 1 a.m., Bay Kitchen Bar will serve complimentary champagne and light appetizers. Specialty cocktails will be $10. Those who make a reservation to dine at the restaurant at some point through Saturday will receive a 10-percent discount.

La Fondita Celebrates

Mexican Independence Day is Wednesday, and La Fondita in Amagansett will celebrate with specials: chiles en nogada, a traditional Independence Day dish, and pozole rojo. Chiles en nogada, which is poblano pepper filled with picadillo, with a walnut cream sauce and pomegranate seeds, served with rice and refried beans, puts on the plate the red, green, and white colors of the Mexican flag. La Fondita is now closed on Mondays and Tuesdays.

Brunch Plans

Beginning this weekend, Nick and Toni’s restaurant in East Hampton will reinstitute its Sunday brunch service from 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Brunch will be served from an a la carte menu, which includes traditional breakfast and lunch-style items as well as the eatery’s wood-oven baked pizzas. Specialty brunch cocktails will also be served.

Meal Prep Demo

Douglas Gee will give a demonstration at noon on Wednesday at the Rogers Memorial Library in Southampton, making a meal of vegetables from his garden. Mr. Gee oversees a new culinary program and tends the community garden at the Bridgehampton Child Care and Recreational Center. Those interested must register with the library by Sunday by calling or visiting myrml.org.

Seasons by the Sea: Late Summer Dessert Stars

Seasons by the Sea: Late Summer Dessert Stars

Beach plums, now in abundance, make great jams, chutneys, and crostatas, and can even be infused into vodka.
Beach plums, now in abundance, make great jams, chutneys, and crostatas, and can even be infused into vodka.
Laura Donnelly
This has been one of the best years for beach plums
By
Laura Donnelly

The calendar may say it’s the end of summer, but it’s really not. We still have a good four to six weeks of glorious weather, warm ocean and bays, fewer tourists, and plenty of fruits and vegetables still growing. So before you resignedly trudge through an apple orchard thinking this is the only fruit you have to work with this time of year, think again.

For starters, this has been one of the best years for beach plums; I’m assuming the relentless sunshine and very little rain had something to do with it. If you don’t mind the amount of labor for not much yield, beach plums can be a versatile, free, and delicious addition to sweet or savory dishes. I have already picked about four quarts from a few bushes in Amagansett, and they still have plenty more ripening. I have made chutney, Dutch baby pancakes, cros­tadas, and infused the fruit in vodka, turning it a bright, hot pink.

Peaches and berries are still around, but probably the stars of late summer are plums. The types we see often, and that are the most agreeable for eating out of hand or in cooking, are Damson, French prune, and Santa Rosa. Dam­sons are a more tart variety, French prunes are smaller and sweeter, and Santa Rosas are more reddish than purple. Plums are an excellent source of vitamin C, vitamin K, copper, dietary fiber, and potassium. If you purchase them unripe, leave them out until they soften a bit and become fragrant. After that, it is okay to refrigerate them.

Summer pudding is an old-fashioned British dessert that utilizes stale bread with any variety of berries you wish. You simply layer the bread (a Pullman loaf or Pepperidge Farm Very Thin bread are good for this) with sweetened fruit, press it into a bowl, and let it sop up the juices overnight. Unmold before serving and top with whipped cream.

Pavlova is another easy and inexpensive dessert, requiring only egg whites, sugar, and whatever fruit you wish. You can make the meringues in advance, store them airtight for up to three days, and serve whenever you want. The name came from the Russian ballerina Anna Matveyevna Pavlova, who performed throughout New Zealand and Australia in the 1920s. Both countries claim the recipe as their own, but it is most likely from a chef at a hotel in Wellington, New Zealand, who is said to have created the meringue to look like her tutu, layered it with kiwi fruit to mimic leaves, red fruit for roses, and topped it with whipped cream to give the illusion of tulle. If you want to make a sloppy version of this dish, go for Eton Mess, basically a mixture of all of the above, smashed up in a bowl, also English.

Another good dessert for the segue into fall is pound cake topped with whatever fruit you like, fresh and macerated, or cooked into a compote.

Lastly, why should late-summer fruits be the only stars for dessert? How about all that zucchini still growing in your garden? Make a zucchini bread and incorporate it into a bread pudding. Same for corn, it only gets better at this time of year, and I like to add fresh kernels to little corn cakes or financiers and top these with a slightly boozy berry sauce.

I love fall as much as the next person and enjoy spending more time by the stove than the barbecue. But I also cling to the end of summer and try to stretch its bounty to the very end.

Click for recipes

Seasons by the Sea: Cauliflower Power!

Seasons by the Sea: Cauliflower Power!

Making cauliflower “pizza crust” creates quite a mess.
Making cauliflower “pizza crust” creates quite a mess.
Jennifer Landes
Cauliflower is a member of the cabbage family, along with kale, Brussels sprouts, and kohlrabi
By
Laura Donnelly

Cauliflower is one of Long Island’s best-known crops. Our climate, with cool evenings and moist air, is perfect for growing firm, sweet, Brassica oleracea var. botrytis.

I love cauliflower. It is one of the most versatile and healthy vegetables. You can eat it raw, pickle it, roast, steam, stew, bake, puree, and grill it. There are even some vegan and vegetarian recipes using cauliflower as a substitute for pizza crust and risottos with cauliflower in place of Arborio rice. More on those later. . . .

Cauliflower is a member of the cabbage family, along with kale, Brussels sprouts, and kohlrabi. Other family members are mustard greens, cresses and arugula, turnips, horseradish, and Asian greens such as tatsoi and mizuna. There are also accidental hybrids such as rutabaga and the intentional hybrid broccolini. If you are one of those people who can’t stand the smell of any cabbage-y vegetable cooking, you should be happy to know that cauliflower is very low in the amount of “sulphur pungency precursors,” rating a mere 2 compared to 35 for Brussels sprouts, according to Harold McGee in his “On Food and Cooking: The Science and Lore of the Kitchen.” It is interesting and ironic that these vegetables, which nowadays are so revered for their health benefits, were also used during World War I to formulate poisonous mustard gas.

My favorite methods of cooking cauliflower are roasting and pureeing. To roast, I simply toss the florets with olive oil, sliced onion, salt and pepper, and a bit of curry powder. Easy peasy! My favorite puree is Daniel Boulud’s recipe, which has apples and onions and pairs beautifully with duck and pork.

In India a different variety of cauliflower that can tolerate the less hospitable growing conditions is extremely popular and is incorporated into all kinds of curries and bharwan gobhi, gobhi masaleder, tandoori gobhi, and more.

The health benefits of cauliflower are impressive: It is full of vitamin C, antioxidants, essential micro-nutrients, and fiber. The sulfuraphane in it is a cancer-killing compound and helps lower blood pressure.

It is popular as a pizza crust substitute, rice substitute in risotto, and roasted whole with mustard and spices and then sliced like a big albino steak.

In my dreadful attempt at cauliflower pizza crust I came upon an abominable recipe on a paleo diet website. First it suggested mixing it with a “healthy” fat, such as butter or lard. Then it recommended topping it with pepperoni, Canadian bacon, chicken sausage, and prosciutto. Apparently, these are all acceptable foods on the stupidest and most dangerous diet fad since the Atkins diet. Other recipes for the crust, such as Rachael Ray’s, are a wee bit better. Unfortunately, if you are going to try this, be prepared to spend a lot of time and toil and a lot of your kitchen equipment because it is labor intensive.

First you grind up the cauliflower in your food processor, then steam or microwave it, then cool it and wring it out in several dish towels, then mix it with eggs, cheese, and spices, then bake anywhere from 10 to 45 minutes depending on which recipe you believe, then add toppings, bake some more, and nap, ’cause that’s what I had to do after three hours of this. My guinea pig son described the final product as tasting like the inside of a vegetable lasagna. I am definitely going to try the cauliflower risotto, because that sounds like a lot less work and quite delicious.

When buying cauliflower, look for creamy white heads with no little black spots. The green leaves enveloping the head should look fresh as well, not yellow or wilting. Cauliflower keeps well in the refrigerator for up to two weeks, and once cooked, about two to three days. And by all means, seek out the beautiful green, orange, and purple cauliflowers at the markets.

Maybe cauliflower is “nothing but cabbage with a college education” as Mark Twain wrote in “The Tragedy of Pudd’nhead Wilson and the Comedy of Extraordinary Twins,” but that is probably what makes it the most feisty and versatile of all the cruciferous vegetables.

Click for recipes

News For Foodies: 09.17.15

News For Foodies: 09.17.15

Local Food News
By
Joanne Pilgrim

A series of dinners featuring local wines and beer will begin at East by Northeast restaurant in Montauk next Thursday. Jeremy Blutstein, the restaurant’s chef, will prepare a menu to complement wines by Macari Vineyards. The meal, for which reservations have been suggested, is $70 per person plus tax and tip.

 

Oktoberfest Begins

It’s that time of year again: Rowdy Hall will kick off its annual Oktoberfest celebration on Saturday with a festival from 3 to 5 p.m. featuring an outdoor German beer garden setup with picnic tables in the restaurant courtyard and communal dining tables inside. German bar snacks will be on the menu, and there will be Bavarian music from 4 to 6 p.m. outdoors, weather permitting, with a live broadcast on the radio station WEHM. Beer specials, including an Oktoberfest tasting flight, will be offered.

Rowdy will feature daily German fare specials through Oct. 4, with a $25 prix fixe starting nightly at 5. From Saturday through Wednesday, the special will feature knockwurst, bratwurst, and bockwurst as an entree, served with German potato salad, sauerkraut, and mustard, and apple strudel for dessert. Beginning next Thursday the special will be kassler rippchen with braised red cabbage and grilled apples.

 

Fall at Fondita

Fall hours at La Fondita in Amagansett begin at 11:30 a.m. Wednesdays through Mondays and continue till 8 p.m. Daily specials are as follows: tacos rancheros on Wednesday, tacos al pastor on Thursday, on Friday a choice of chipotle chicken tacos, tostadas, or quesadillas, and on Saturday tacos de cochinita pibil (orange-marinated pork tacos).

 

At Winston’s

At Winston’s Bar and Grill in East Hampton, complimentary appetizers will be served at the bar during Monday night football games. On Tuesdays from 5 to 7 p.m., Montauk Brewing Company draft beers will be on special, at two for one, and on Thursdays during the same hour a Red Stripe draft will be served with a plate of wings, any style, for $10.

On Thursdays between 5 and 6 p.m., a lucky table of diners will be selected for a surprise, such as a complimentary dish or bottle of wine. Every day from 5 to 7 p.m. at Winston’s there is a happy hour with two-for-one margaritas and a three-course prix fixe offered for $24.

 

Wine Wednesdays

Wainscott Main Wine and Spirits is once again offering its series of workshops on wine, taking place on Wednesdays at 5:30 p.m. beginning on Oct. 7. The eight-week session will cost $10 per week and feature various experts leading tasting sessions and discussions on a range of wine-related topics. Details will be provided on the shop’s website, wainscottmain.com.

 

Sen Hours

In Sag Harbor, Sen, a Japanese restaurant, is now serving dinner from 5:30 to 10 p.m. Sundays through Thursdays and until 10:30 on Fridays and Saturdays. Lunch is also served on Saturdays and Sundays from noon to 2:30 p.m.

 

Momi Ramen

Momi Ramen in East Hampton has a daily happy hour from 5 to 7 p.m. at the bar. The restaurant is open for dinner daily, except Tuesdays, and for lunch as well on Saturdays and Sundays.

The Other Bay Kitchen Bar

An item last week about Bay Kitchen Bar on Three Mile Harbor was included in error. The specials and other events referred to are taking place at Bay Kitchen Bar’s Manhattan location.

Seasons by the Sea: Online Recipes: Gack!

Seasons by the Sea: Online Recipes: Gack!

Who doesn’t appreciate a culinary mash-up like butter chicken poutine?
By
Laura Donnelly

How does Spam tonkatsu sound to you? Would you like to try a tasty paleo breakfast burrito with ham and not much else? Let’s find a recipe for Cowboy Casserole; this is a mixture of Tater Tots, canned soup, canned vegetables, and cheeeeeese. Christmas will be upon us before you know it, so why not perfect your Christmas crack now, your dentist will thank you! This is a mixture of Saltine crackers, lotsa sugar, a cup of butter, and melted chocolate.

And who doesn’t appreciate a culinary mash-up like butter chicken poutine? This would be a combination of a wonderful Indian dish poured on top of one of the more disgraceful Canadian national dishes — French fries with gravy and cheese curds.

For a while I have been thinking that the Internet could be the best/worst thing to happen to medicine (self-diagnoses) and online dating (self-doubt and lies). I have recently come to the conclusion that it is also the best/worst thing to happen to cooking.

This frustration usually takes place when I am attempting recipes using coconut oil instead of butter, or cauliflower in lieu of pizza dough (see frustration episode # 1067 in last week’s column on cauliflower). Don’t get me wrong, there are a gazillion great food websites and blogs. They may even test the recipes for you and illustrate them with actual photographs of that recipe. But then there are the doozies, the sprawling petabytes of bandwidth extolling the virtues of family, hearth, frugality, comfort food, and some of the worst, without-a-doubt-untested recipes you will ever waste your time on.

I think if you stick with the good ones — Food 52, Epicurious, Smitten Kit­chen, David Lebovitz, Saveur, and many more — you’ll be okay. But when you venture into Pinterest territory, all bets are off.

First of all, when I look at Pinterest, I feel like I’m watching Japanese anime cartoons. It’s so busy, I think I’m going to have a seizure. Then there are the blogs/websites that get all personal and say things like “this recipe will make you sit down and reminisce.” No, it won’t, it will make me sit down in front of reruns of “Real Housewives of the Hamptons” and wonder why I tried your recipe for porcinis, foie gras, and Douglas fir.

Another recipe claims to “ground you in that okay place.” I ponder what could be my okay place. Perhaps the bathroom after I’ve indulged in Sandra Lee’s Kwanzaa cake (pre-made angel food cake, canned frosting, canned apple pie filling, and corn nuts — gack).

There are “homesick” cooks, “prairie” cooks, “pioneer women” cooks, and “detoxinistas.” I like the last one because she admits that the Barefoot Contessa’s recipe for mac’n’cheese is her favorite.

There are entertaining names for many of these cooking websites: Offalgood, Meathenge (“this Kaliflornia kid kan kook kewl”), Punchfork, Shiksainthekitchen, Veggienumnum.

The Food Network is for sure guilty of posting some nonsense recipes. How about Ellie Krieger’s “recipe” for “Dark Chocolate as a Snack.” Ingredients: one ounce dark chocolate. Brilliant!

From there, let’s try Rachael Ray’s “Late Night Bacon.” Basically, you just nuke eight slices of bacon in the microwave.

Paula Deen shares her scintillating recipe for English peas: one can of peas heated up with half a stick of butter. Robin Miller’s Carrot Ginger Salad is a bag of shredded carrots and bottled dressing. No doubt about it, these inspiring recipes transport me to my okay place.

Lastly, back to Sandra Lee. I enjoy wondering if she captured the heart of Andrew Cuomo with her recipe for white chocolate polenta?

Often the problem with these online recipes is that they haven’t been tested, tested, and retested. Sometimes the viewer/reader making the recipe is not terribly adept in the kitchen. As a professional chef, I am confident in my abilities with just about any moderately simple recipe. Read it through first, do your prep, and follow to the letter. Even the most reliable and foolproof recipes can be flubbed by a careless cook.

While it’s fun doing a bit of recipe-bashing, even I have been the recipient of some online bullying. I have contributed several recipes to the Barefoot Contessa cookbooks and TV show, most notably sticky toffee date cake. One day I read the comments section for this recipe. Most were positive, but one person wrote “supposedly Laura Donnelly writes about food for The East Hampton Star and she’s a pastry chef.” The next comment was “she sounds like a moron!” I’m not sure which of these two occupations makes me a moron, but I was thrilled to have evoked such a visceral response. Now let’s try some “recipes!”

Click for recipes

News For Foodies: 09.24.15

News For Foodies: 09.24.15

Local Food News
By
Joanne Pilgrim

International Brunch

The Watermill Center, in concert with the Topping Rose House restaurant in Bridgehampton, will host a series of Sunday brunches this fall. Each one will reflect the cuisine of one of the center’s artists-in-residence.

The events begin this week from noon to 2:30 p.m. at the art center in Water Mill, featuring a meal focused on fare typical of the United Kingdom, where Oliver Beer, one of the artists, is from. The cost of each brunch is $75; proceeds will support the Watermill Center’s artist residency, education, and International Summer programs. Advance registration is required.

 

Oktoberfest Specials

Oktoberfest continues at Rowdy Hall in East Hampton with German fare specials. Today through Sunday, the special will be kassler rippchen with braised red cabbage and grilled apples, and Black Forest trifle for dessert. Monday through Wednesday, the Oktoberfest dinner will consist of wienerschnitzel with herbed spaetzle and gold beets, and bienenstich for dessert. Next Thursday, sauerbraten will be served.

 

Navy Road

Navy Road restaurant in Montauk will remain open on weekends through Oct. 11. On Saturdays and Sundays, lunch and dinner will be served.

 

Learn to Ferment

The Amagansett Food Institute is taking reservations for an Oct. 4 workshop on making fermented foods, to be presented by Nadia Ernestus of Hamptons Brine. The session will take place at the Amagansett Farmers Market at 11 a.m. and cost $30. Ms. Ernestus will demonstrate how to make sauerkraut and honey ferments and will discuss the health benefits of eating fermented foods. Reservations can be made by emailing [email protected].

 

Football and Snacks

The fall football season brings not only games on the TVs in the bar at Indian Wells Tavern in Amagansett, but a lineup of specials served during Sunday football games. They include a $5 order of wings, mussels and fries for $7.50, crispy calamari or Caprese salad for $6, and special pricing on varieties of nachos and quesadillas. Also on special will be chili, onion soup, clam chowder, and more.

There will be drink specials as well on Sundays, and on Monday nights during football games.

At Cittanuova in East Hampton during football games there will be $4 draft beers at the bar and free wings served at halftime.

 

New at the Helm

The Topping Rose House has a new chef. Ryan Murphy, a native of Ireland, where he was executive chef at Ballfin, a luxury mansion, took over in midsummer and has changed the restaurant menu. It now reflects his Irish roots and French culinary influence and is centered on seasonal produce, much of which is grown on the Topping Rose site.

 

News For Foodies: 08.27.15

News For Foodies: 08.27.15

Quail Hill Farm held its annual benefit dinner, At the Common Table‚ in its orchard on Sunday. Guests sat at one long undulating table that stretched for yards and dined on offerings from Almond’s Jason Weiner, Nick and Toni’s Joe Realmuto, The Star’s Laura Donnelly, and many others who used the farm’s produce as the basis for their courses.
Quail Hill Farm held its annual benefit dinner, At the Common Table‚ in its orchard on Sunday. Guests sat at one long undulating table that stretched for yards and dined on offerings from Almond’s Jason Weiner, Nick and Toni’s Joe Realmuto, The Star’s Laura Donnelly, and many others who used the farm’s produce as the basis for their courses.
Durell Godfrey
Local Food News
By
Joanne Pilgrim

As the busy, busy, (can I emphasize, very busy?) season for East End eateries wraps up, there is not much word about new initiatives, menu shifts, specials, and whatnot. Presumably, our restaurateurs and their staffs are just hanging in there, serving summer customers, and will come up for air post-Labor Day.

One thing that will continue through September is the weekly Sunday barbecue at Topping Rose House in Bridgehampton. It starts at 6 p.m. and features wine pairings by Wolffer Estate Vineyards. Space is limited, so reservations have been requested. The cost is $95 per person plus tax and gratuity.

Those who like the al fresco scene may wish to reserve the firepit at Topping Rose for an outdoor gathering. The restaurant is also continuing a summer prix fixe, daily from 5 to 6:30 p.m. for $35 plus tax and gratuity.

Peanuts at Stuart’s

Stuart’s Seafood market in Amagansett will be handing out bags of peanuts to customers this weekend, suggested snacks for watching a Mets game on Monday at which Dante Sasso, the 11-year-old son of the market’s proprietors and the winner of the NY 529 Plan SNY Kidcaster Contest, will call an inning.

The game, against the Phillies, airs on SNY at 7 p.m., and the proud parents will celebrating all weekend by passing out the packs of peanuts.

 

Osteria del Circo

If the impending autumn turns one’s cravings toward hearty Italian food, a $39 early prix fixe at Osteria del Circo in Southampton might be just the thing. The Tuscan-style restaurant is the East End representative of a chain that includes Manhattan and Abu Dhabi locations.