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News For Foodies: 11.06.14

News For Foodies: 11.06.14

While Bloody Marys are always in season, something about their tomato-y richness suits the fall harvest, as these tempting offerings from c/o the Maidstone in East Hampton demonstrate.
While Bloody Marys are always in season, something about their tomato-y richness suits the fall harvest, as these tempting offerings from c/o the Maidstone in East Hampton demonstrate.
Morgan McGivern
Local Food News
By
Joanne Pilgrim

The Jamaica Specialties shop in East Hampton has weekly lunch specials for $8.95 from 10 a.m. to 3 p.m., Mondays through Thursdays. Every Friday there is a fish special, with different fish — kingfish, porgy, red snapper, and more — served Jamaican style. A fried fish special is $12, while steamed fish is $15; the specials are served with a choice of rice, yellow yam, boiled dumplings, or boiled banana.

In Montauk

East by Northeast restaurant in Montauk, which is open Fridays through Tuesdays beginning at 5 p.m., offers a happy hour in the bar and lounge area with specials on drinks and appetizers all night on Tuesdays, and from 5 to 7 the other nights. A three-course prix fixe is available for $24 from Sunday through Tuesday, and on Fridays and Saturdays until 6:30 p.m. The restaurant’s sushi bar remains open, and there is live music every Saturday night starting at 8.

The Montauk Yacht Club offers a 4 to 7 p.m. happy hour Sundays through Thursdays and a three-course prix fixe menu for $29.95 on those nights. Prime rib is the special on Thursdays; Fridays are clambake nights. The restaurant offers 25 percent off all bottles of wine, and a 10 percent discount to locals who have obtained a yacht club keychain after proving their residency.

Autumn Dishes

Art of Eating Catering in Amagansett has a new lineup of autumnal dishes on its take-out menu. Orders must be placed 48 hours in advance and can be picked up at the shop Tuesdays through Sundays. Among the new appetizers are several varieties of deviled eggs, potato, leek, and celery-root latkes, salmon terrine, rosemary-gruyere cheese puffs, and grilled goat cheese jalapeno poppers. Other items include lentil hummus with tomato and thyme, organic kale popcorn, red curry coconut rice noodles and vegetables with tofu, steakhouse salad, cauliflower and cheese gratin, and organic kale salad, along with grilled pork ribs, whole grilled salmon, woodland mushroom lasagna, and smoked barbecue pulled pork.

Fall menu items have also been added at little/red in Southampton, which serves dinner nightly and lunch from 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m., along with an “in-between menu” from 3 to 5 p.m., Fridays through Sundays. The new dishes include roasted cauliflower and radicchio salad, chilled poached shrimp and smoked salmon, and seared sea scallops with mashed cauliflower, sautéed shaved Brussels sprouts, and bacon beurre blanc.

Artists and Writers Night

Jessica Soffer will read from her novel, “Tomorrow There Will be Apricots,” which has been excerpted in The Star, at an artists and writers dinner on Tuesday at Almond in Bridgehampton. The evening will feature a three-course prix fixe served family style, with a glass of local wine or craft beer, and a discussion by Ms. Soffer about the meaning of food references in her book. She is a New York City-based writer whose work has also appeared in The New York Times, Vogue, Martha Stewart Living, and The Wall Street Journal.

Advance registration is required. The cost is $45 per person, which includes tax and gratuity.

Dinner and Movie

At Rowdy Hall in East Hampton, diners who order the “Rowdy Classic” special of the night Sundays through Thursdays, which costs $20 plus tax and gratuity, will receive a free voucher for the movies. The special on Sunday will be meatloaf, burgers on Monday, Tuesday, and Wednesday, and on Thursday, moules frites, steamed wild Cape Cod mussels served with fries.

Cooking Class

James Carpenter, the chef at Page 63 in Sag Harbor, will give a cooking class, along with the restaurant’s manager, Jamie D’Oliveira, at Old Whalers Church in Sag Harbor next Thursday at 6:30 p.m. The meal will include kale and roasted squash salad, roasted chicken with autumn vegetables, and pumpkin mascarpone ravioli. There will be chocolate banana bread pudding for dessert. The cost is $20. Wine and water will be available for purchase. Reservations may be made by calling the church.

Restaurant Week

Long Island Restaurant Week has a few more days to go. Participating restaurants, a list of which can be found at longislandrestaurantweek.com, are offering a three-course prix fixe for $27.95, through Sunday.

News for Foodies: 09.25.14

News for Foodies: 09.25.14

Local Food News
By
Joanne Pilgrim

A prix fixe for fall at Almond in Bridgehampton is offered Tuesdays through Thursdays, and on Sundays, between 5:30 and 7 p.m. Three courses, with different choices nightly for each course, are offered for $29. Among the entrees are whole roasted dorado, marinated Sagaponack beefsteaks, and roast chicken. An appetizer and dessert are included as well.

Manly Mondays

“Manly Mondays” at Fresh Hamptons bring specials at the bar, with sports on the TV. A dinner special featuring a grass-fed beef burger or a grilled veggie burger includes a draft beer or glass of house wine and costs $14 plus tax and gratuity.

Personalized Prix Fixe

The Living Room restaurant at c/o the Maidstone inn in East Hampton will allow diners who order a $42 prix fixe to choose either three courses, or two  (appetizer and entree or entree and dessert) with a glass of wine included.  The special is available Sundays through Thursdays.

Winemakers’ Dinners

Noah’s restaurant in Greenport has invited local winemakers to discuss their vintages and choose wines to pair with a five-course tasting menu, at a series of dinners this fall. The first, on Sunday at 6 p.m., will feature Kelly Koch of Macari Vineyards and Winery. The dinner will include a first course of red crab and rock shrimp cake, followed by seared local sea scallops, roasted eggplant soup, pepper-crusted lamb loin, and a dessert of wine-poached pears with Mecox Bay Dairy cheeses and local honey. The cost is $95 per person plus tax and gratuity.

Oktoberfest Continues

This week at Rowdy Hall in East Hampton, the Oktoberfest German special served today through Sunday will be kassler ripchen with pretzel spaetzle and apple mustard, along with apple strudel. Beginning on Sunday, and through next Thursday, sauerbraten with braised red cabbage and root vegetable puree will be served. The dinners are $24.

Sake at Sen

Sen restaurant in Sag Harbor will celebrate the start of the sake brewing season in Japan with an “all about sake” seminar on Wednesday at 7 p.m., when there will be a discussion about how the national drink of Japan is made and which types are best, as well as sake to taste. Also that night, diners will receive a complimentary sake sample.

On Oct. 7, Sen will have a sushi-making session. During the 90-minute class, participants will learn how to roll and cut sushi rolls, and more. The cost, $30 per person, includes four rolls and eda­mame, along with a glass of sake.

Space may be reserved by calling the restaurant or sending e-mail to info@ senrestaurant.com.

Seasons by the Sea: Family Meals at Quail Hill

Seasons by the Sea: Family Meals at Quail Hill

For dessert the farmers served fresh, many-hued watermelon slices with Thai basil, lime juice, and honey.
For dessert the farmers served fresh, many-hued watermelon slices with Thai basil, lime juice, and honey.
Laura Donnelly
The food grown at the farm is transformed by local chefs into a feast for 200 people
By
Laura Donnelly

It began, as no doubt many wonderful things do, At the Common Table. This is the annual dinner served out in the orchard at Quail Hill Farm in Amagansett. The food grown at the farm is transformed by local chefs into a feast for 200 people. There is music; there is no tent. Mother Nature, the senior partner in all growing endeavors, almost always cooperates. Along with various other items for auction was lunch for two prepared by and shared with the Quail Hill farm team. My college friend Mallory won the lunch and invited me along on a late September Wednesday.

It could have been June, July, or August, Mother Nature cooperating again. The Quail Hill apprentices had an extra challenge, besides showing off their culinary skills to someone who had paid for this: Mallory eats a raw vegan diet. This delighted them no end.

We were led out to the orchard where a huge grill had been set up and a table was decorated with late season zinnias. A truck trundled down the hill with platters of every imaginable combination of vegetables, legumes, seeds, and juices. Oh, and there was freshly caught striped bass for fish tacos for the rest of us. The juices were a combination of beets, cantaloupe, peaches, and ginger. There was gazpacho to begin. There were two green salads, one with tatsoi, sweet peppers, and red onion, another with romaine, summer crisp lettuce, fennel, and Swiss chard. A mason jar of Jesse’s wicked good hot pepper sauce waited for those who dared to partake. There was a delicata squash dish with sauteed leeks, caraway, and nutmeg. Spaghetti squash with sunflower nut butter, honey, coriander, cilantro, and ginger. There were more salads, one of shredded beets with olive oil and balsamic vinegar, a carrot slaw, and hemp seeds with brazil nuts, grated squash, and sweet peppers. For dessert, fresh many-hued watermelon slices with Thai basil, lime juice, and honey, along with slices of MacIntosh apples from the trees over our heads, for dipping into the farm’s honey. To say the late season wasps hovering around us were having a drunken bacchanal would be an understatement.

Our talented cooks that day were this year’s farm apprentices, some new, some returning — Layton Guenther, Jesse Schaffer, Morgan Lynn, Ella Fleming, Nick Berini, Brendan McMullan, and Matt Dell. I asked whose idea it was to offer this wonderful lunch as an auction item. “Everyone’s” they said together. Who does most of the cooking each day? “Everyone” came the reply again. This is a good-looking, whip-smart group, and the camaraderie is obvious. One of the Quail Hill members described their work as “glarming,” a clever portmanteau of “glamorous farming.” These kids came up with their own triple portmanteau and call themselves “glarmets,” “glamorous-farmer-gourmets.”

I began to wonder what kind of meals they cooked up for themselves on a regular day, what would be akin to “family meals” in the restaurant world. These are the often slapdash, thrown-together meals eaten quickly before lunch or dinner service begins. They can be anything from dubious leftover fish to pasta, pasta, pasta to more creative international dishes, thanks to always having a great variety of nationalities in our restaurant’s kitchens.

“Could I come back for one of your everyday meals?” I asked. “If you give me some of your apples, I’ll bring a galette for dessert.” Mallory joined in and offered to bring some of her vegan chipotle ice cream with chocolate sauce.

So there we were again, back at Quail Hill a few days later, about to enjoy another freshly harvested, made up on the fly, mostly vegetarian feast. The kitchen is tiny, perched on the top floor of the shop. It is messy, yet organized. The crew moves around each other like professional chefs, performing a little ballet with hot dishes, sharp knives, questions, and tastes, never bumping into each other.

This day’s meal was another wonder. Shakshuka, an Israeli-Tunisian dish of tomatoes, peppers, onions, and spices topped with eggs, is bubbling on the stove. Some recently caught bluefish has been smoked and turned into a salad to go on bread made with Quail Hill wheat. There is a black bean salsa, a gratin of purple and sweet potatoes spiced with curry and cardamom, and more green salads whipped up by Morgan, the free-spirited sprite of the group. It was another warm day and we sat outside the shop. This time we were fortunate to have Scott Chaskey, the grand poobah of Quail Hill, godfather of soul, seeds, poetry, and all things botanical, joining us.

“What is your favorite season?” I ask them. This time of year is the unanimous answer. “What are your favorite foods to make?” Eggplant Parmesan is a favorite. They also love using the farm eggs every which way, there are a lot of frittatas and Spanish omelettes. “What do you do for each other’s birthdays?” Ella is the baker, creating profiteroles and chocolate cakes with salted caramel icing and lemon lavender cakes.

We all agree that these fine young apprentices should write their own cookbook, and they already have a title: “Farmers Forks.”

Some may be back next year, some may not. Brendan originally came to record work songs, Matt is moving upstate to farm, Jesse is going to farm school at University of California Santa Cruz, and Ella hopes to teach farming.

At the end of each meal, as cleanup begins, they spontaneously break into song, “Shake These Bones” being a favorite. Brendan and Layton seem to remember most of the words, but other voices float in and out, as compost is gathered and dishes are washed.

We all enjoyed the apple galette, but Mallory’s ice cream was a revelation of what you can do with raw vegan ingredients. Here are some recipes from the young farmers of Quail Hill, with thanks to them for letting us be a part of what is, truly, a family meal.

Click for recipes

News For Foodies: 10:02:14

News For Foodies: 10:02:14

Local Food News
By
Joanne Pilgrim

A series of classes at Wainscott Main Wine and Spirits, to be held on Wednesdays through November, offers an education for aspiring oenophiles. Each begins at 5:30 p.m. and costs $10. On tap for Wednesday is “First Person: The Case for Stewardship. Taste — Why It Matters,” to be presented by Liz Willette Danneels of Grand Cru Selections and Jordan Salcito, the wine director at Momofuku Restaurant Group.

Montauk Yacht Club

October specials at the Montauk Yacht Club include an Oktoberfest beer, Warsteiner, for $5 every day, and happy hour Sundays through Thursdays from 4 to 7 p.m., with drink specials as well as orders of fried calamari and crispy chicken wings for $5, and peel-and-eat shrimp for $7. A three-course prix fixe menu is offered for $29.95 Sundays through Thursdays; prime rib is a Thursday-night special, and Friday is clambake night. Local residents who have obtained a Montauk Yacht Club keychain signifying that status will be offered a 10-percent discount.

Fall Brunch

Cafe Max has a fall brunch special on Sundays from noon to 2:30 p.m. The East Hampton restaurant will offer diners three courses, with choices including eggs Benedict, French toast, omelettes, crab cakes, flounder, and mussels, for $20.

Hamptons Wine Club

An online wine club, based at thehamptonswineclub.com, focuses exclusively on Long Island wines. Members receive a variety of wines — red, white, and rosé — each month, delivered to home or office addresses. Three, six, or 12-month memberships are available and can be purchased as gifts.

The club, formerly the North Fork Wine Club, was purchased recently by the B and D Wine Company, a New York City-based business.

Happy Hour Apps at Gig Shack

Appetizers are half price, along with the drinks, at 668 the Gig Shack’s happy hour from 5:30 to 7 p.m. from Mondays through Fridays. The Montauk restaurant continues to serve dinner daily beginning at 5:30 p.m., and also serves lunch on Saturdays and Sundays.

Chef’s Tasting Menu

The restaurant at c/o the Maidstone inn in East Hampton, called the Living Room, is offering a tasting menu prepared by Mathias Brogie, the executive chef, from Thursdays through Sundays. The six-course special must be ordered by an entire dining party, and costs $100 per person. Among the items are grilled oysters, foie gras tacos, duck confit, grilled halibut, filet mignon, and peach tartine.

Nosh and Compete

Townline BBQ in Sagaponack is restarting its quiz night trivia games beginning tonight at 7. Teams of five may be formed in advance, or will be formed at the event. The entry fee of $10 per person will create a grand-prize pot. Additional prizes will be awarded throughout the games, and participants will receive a 10-percent discount on menu items not already on special.

New at Sen

New menu items at Sen in Sag Harbor have been added to reflect the changing season. Among them are a number of ramen soups — chili chicken, double pork, and vegetarian — and steamed buns filled with pork, chicken, or crispy cod. Also new are chicken lemongrass dumplings, crispy panko calamari, ginger-scallion skirt steak, miso salmon, and garlic-miso mussels.

Oktoberfest Finale

The final German Oktoberfest special at Rowdy Hall in East Hampton, to be served from tomorrow through Sunday, includes an entrée of currywurst with hand-cut French fries and house-made sauerkraut, with bienenstich (almond cake) for dessert. The prix fixe dinner is $24. German bar snacks and beers are also available. 

Football Victuals

Victuals for noshing while watching Sunday football games are available at Smokin’ Wolf, a barbecue takeout shop in East Hampton. Choices include a bucket of wings for $50, which includes celery, carrots, and blue cheese, nachos for six or eight for $25, with a choice of brisket, chicken, or black beans, and 24 bite-size chicken, brisket, or pork sliders for $24. Quesadillas are on special, with one free for every three purchased.

 

Hand-Crafted Sauerkraut That Heals

Hand-Crafted Sauerkraut That Heals

After years of teaching others, Nadia Ernestus is now marketing her own raw sauerkraut products.
After years of teaching others, Nadia Ernestus is now marketing her own raw sauerkraut products.
Mark Segal
Nadia Ernestus's “classic” sauerkraut consists of organic green cabbage, organic carrots, sea salt, Himalayan salt, and water.
By
Mark Segal

If you spend an hour with Nadia Ernestus, you will learn that sauerkraut is more than the base for choucroute garnie or something you put on a hot dog. Ms. Ernestus is the force behind Hamptons Brine, the producer of three kinds of raw sauerkraut and two versions of kvass, or sauerkraut juice.

Ms. Ernestus, a Sag Harbor resident who came to the United States from the Soviet Union in 1981, traces the beginning of her interest in fermented foods to a diagnosis of Type 2 diabetes. “I wasn’t overweight, and the doctors didn’t offer anything but drugs,” she said.

Having cooked all her life, she made vegetables and fiber the mainstays of her diet and regained her health. When her youngest child left home three years ago, she enrolled in the Institute for Integrative Nutrition’s health coach training program, a yearlong online course in the healing properties of food.

“We learned about 102 different dietetic theories,” Ms. Ernestus said. When she graduated, she began running workshops with programs provided by the school. “I discovered that when I was in front of 40 people I loved it.”

She conducts regular workshops at the Hayground School in Bridgehampton and has given classes at other East End locations as well as Up­Island. Not long after she started teaching fermentation and making sauerkraut and kombucha, local stores contacted her with requests to carry her products.

Peter Garnham, a writer and chairman of the EECO Farm in East Hampton, told her she would need a food handler’s certificate if she wanted to sell her sauerkraut commercially. That led her to the Calverton Business Incubator, a part of Stony Brook University, where she was able to take the required course.

“The incubator is an amazing facility,” she said. “Its goal is to help all kinds of businesses to grow, not just food service, by removing the financial cost of infrastructure.” The incubator’s food-production facility is a state-of-the-art, 8,400-square-foot kitchen shared by people unable to afford their own professional kitchens.

Every step of production, from chopping the cabbage to putting it in jars to applying the labels to preparing it for shipment, is done by hand by Ms. Ernestus, with help from five part-time assistants. The cabbage, all of it organic, is grown in different locations, most of them in New York State. Ms. Ernestus even designed the company’s website and online store, with help from GoDaddy’s website-building tools.

Keeping up with the demand is daunting. During the past summer, she sold her products at three farmers markets, leaving her little time to travel to Calverton. “I was out of product all the time.” At the moment, she isn’t producing enough to sell to local stores. She makes four times as much money online as selling wholesale, but hopes eventually to be able to do both.

The production process is simple. Her “classic” sauerkraut consists of organic green cabbage, organic carrots, sea salt, Himalayan salt, and water. The first stage is to mix cabbage with salt. This kills many of the pathogens but doesn’t kill the lactobacillus. “They like the salt,” she laughed, referring to the “friendly” bacteria that live in our digestive systems without causing disease. The bacteria begin to digest the sugar from the cabbage, creating a byproduct of lactic acid, which makes the cabbage sour. The more salt, the more sour.

Canned, pasteurized, or cooked sauer­kraut doesn’t have the same benefits, because extended exposure to high heat kills the probiotic microorganisms. “Raw sauerkraut has 200 times as much vitamin C as cabbage,” according to Ms. Ernestus. “When something becomes bioavailable, the body can capture nutrition from it.” Heat treatment of raw cabbage is unnecessary because it is still alive. “It contains live bacteria. If you leave a bottle in a hot car it will explode.”

There is no question as to the product’s vitality. A bottle of her spicy kraut was bubbling when opened.

Eating raw sauerkraut on a regular basis, said Ms. Ernestus, can benefit the immune system, lower LDL cholesterol, assist in managing Type 2 diabetes, improve digestive function, and decrease allergies. A number of scientific studies, including one published in the journal Nutrition Cancer two years ago, have found that consumption of cabbage and sauerkraut is connected with significant reduction of breast cancer incidences.

The word “artisanal” is applied today to a vast range of products. In the magazine Inc., which targets owners of small businesses, the writer Tim Donnelly asked, “With  Tostitos, Dominos, and Sargento adopting the adjective, what’s a genuine hand-crafter to do?”

You can’t get much more hand-crafted than Hamptons Brine. And the weight of evidence says it’s good for you. Ms. Ernestus’s sauerkraut and kvass can be ordered at hamptonsbrine.com.

News For Foodies: 10:09:14

News For Foodies: 10:09:14

Local Food News
By
Joanne Pilgrim

Restaurants will be lively this weekend, with the Hamptons International Film Festival in town and Montauk’s Fall Festival taking place, but for some it will be a last hurrah before they scale back or shut down for the season.

On Three Mile Harbor, Bay Kitchen Bar at the Harbor Marina will remain open in its waterfront spot through this month, but will be available through the winter for holiday parties and other private events. Through Food & Co., the catering company run by Eric Miller, the chef, orders may be placed for catering at off-site spots as well. Bay Kitchen Bar is currently open from Wednesday through Sunday. During a 5 to 7 p.m. sunset happy hour, oysters or clams on the half shell are offered for $1 each, and glasses of muscadet for $5.

Fall Festival

Solé East restaurant in Montauk will have its own lineup of fall festival-style activities tomorrow through Sunday, with live music, pumpkin decorating, pony rides, hay rides, and face painting. On Saturday night a special fall menu will be offered, and s’mores, the traditional campfire dessert treat, will be prepared on the patio over a fire pit. This time of year, Solé offers dinner Thursdays through Sundays, and lunch on Saturdays and Sundays.

Moby-Dick at Almond

Next Tuesday, Almond restaurant in Bridgehampton will kick off another of its series of Artists and Writers Nights with a third annual reading of “Moby-Dick.” Beginning at 7 p.m., readers will take turns reading aloud from the Melville tome while a three-course dinner is served family style. It will include a glass of wine or a local craft beer and cost $45, including tax and gratuity. Reservations are required.

Wine Education Wednesdays

This week’s tasting and talk on wine at Wainscott Main Wine & Spirits, on Montauk Highway in Wainscott, will feature Cliff Batuello, a master sommelier with Michael Skurnik Wines, with “What’s in the Bottle? Decoding Spain.”

The class starts at 5:30 p.m. and costs $10. Those interested can register by calling the store or sending an email to [email protected]. The Oct. 22 session will center on sake.  

November Deals

Next up on the red-letter-date list for foodies may be Long Island Restaurant Week from Nov. 2 to 9. All across the island, participating eateries will offer $27.95 prix fixes.

Restaurateurs who wish to sign up, or diners who want to see which restaurants are participating, can find more information at longislandrestaurantweek.com.

Tuesdays for Tacos

Fresh Hamptons in Bridgehampton, is tapping Tuesdays as taco night, and offering a family-style taco dinner for $22 per adult, $12 for kids under 12, plus tax and gratuity.

 

East End Eats: Food With Your Films

East End Eats: Food With Your Films

Thin pizzas, light salads, and fritto misto are the items to get at Cittanuova on Newtown Lane in East Hampton.
Thin pizzas, light salads, and fritto misto are the items to get at Cittanuova on Newtown Lane in East Hampton.
Morgan McGivern Photos
The lowdown on where to dine
By
Laura Donnelly

The festival is coming, the festival is coming, the Hamptons International Film Festival is coming! By Thursday the swarm of over 18,000 black-leather clad cinephiles will begin descending upon our lovely villages. They know where the films are being shown, East Hampton, Sag Harbor, Southampton, Montauk, and Westhampton, but do they know where to eat? Have no fear, I am here to “direct.”

When the festival began 22 years ago, it was a modest endeavor. There would be a superfamous actor or director interviewed on the last day of the festival, and it would be kept secret until that day. It became a guessing game among locals. If we happened to see Isabella Rossellini strolling through town, but she wasn’t in any of the films being shown, we would guess correctly she was that year’s “A Conversation With . . .” surprise guest. One year, young filmmakers were given a movie scavenger-hunt project. They had to find and shoot various things, one being “a famous person.” The results were hilarious because Alec Baldwin (one of our more known and visible men about town) ended up appearing in most of them.

The local newspapers and magazines have published some excellent and comprehensive guides to the film fest, but none give you the lowdown on where to dine. Let’s start in East Hampton. Probably the most obvious and closest to the theater is Rowdy Hall. This is the place where you can get the best burgers, mussels, and fish and chips in town. There are wonderful and creative salads and excellent beers on tap. John Papas Cafe is great for diner-style breakfast and lunch items. Try the Greek salad with grilled chicken and the milkshakes.

For those who like organic, Babette’s is a great choice with primo people watching. Cittanuova is the place to go for thin pizzas, light salads, and the best calamari and zucchini fritto misto. Off the beaten path but still within the village is Fresno, a charming spot with a pretty patio and sophisticated food. For those with Founder’s passes, i.e., $$$, there’s 1770 House. Upstairs is grand; the tavern downstairs is cozy and warm. Try the famous meatloaf! You also can’t beat Nick & Toni’s, one of our most famous and enduring restaurants and well worth a visit. I assure you, you will be treated just as graciously as Messrs. Balaban and Spielberg. The headquarters and press office of the film festival, c/o the Maidstone, is quirky and pretty with one of the best restaurants in town — the Living Room. It is Swedish-lite, and your doggies are welcome as well. You didn’t actually bring your dog to the festival, did you? If you have a barbecue craving, check out Smokin’ Wolf in East Hampton or Townline BBQ in Sagaponack. Bostwick’s, located on Route 27, is the place to go for simple seafood and great local clams.

For those heading to Sag Harbor, the American Hotel is a highlight, serving continental cuisine in a series of beautiful rooms. LT Burger is the place for, you guessed it, burgers. Sen has the best sushi in town. If you’re craving old school Italian fare (think garlic knots and raffia-clad Chianti bottles), try Il Cappuccino. For more high-end Italian, Tutto Il Giorno, down by the water, is tiny, beautiful, and serves some of the best homemade pasta dishes around. Start with the pan carasau, paper-thin flat breads grilled with rosemary and garlic oil, paired with burrata cheese and tomatoes. Hubba hubba!

Dockside in Sag Harbor is a popular place with a great variety of healthy choices and is across from the water as well.

Passing through Bridgehampton between theaters? Within a few blocks of each other are some of the best restaurants out here. Almond and Pierre’s both serve superb bistro fare.

The fairly new Bridgehampton Inn is one of my favorite restaurants. Think Ottolenghi meets River Cafe, with the menu changing weekly. Tom Colicchio’s Topping Rose House is grand, with impeccable food served in a lovely setting. World Pie has your pizzas and Yama Q vegetarian food and sushi.

In Southampton try red/bar brasserie or little/red. Red/bar has awesome and refreshing fluke crudo and hearty Long Island duck with lentils and butternut squash. La Parmagiana, a restaurant within an Italian market, is great for big family-style feasts.

There are plenty of places to eat between movies, from high end to low, and we can’t fit all of them in here. Welcome to our beautiful villages. Enjoy the beaches, the over 125 films being shown, and our fine restaurants.

I shall now get up on my little soapbox. Wouldn’t it make sense to forgo the two-hour parking limit for the mere five days of the festival? Just sayin’.

News for Foodies: 09.11.14

News for Foodies: 09.11.14

Local Food News
By
Joanne Pilgrim

Nick & Toni’s Brunch

Sunday brunch is served at Nick & Toni’s in East Hampton weekly from 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m., with an a la carte menu that includes specialty brunch cocktails.

Bistro Date Night

Thursday is date night at the Harbor Bistro in East Hampton, where a sunset view is included along with a complimentary glass of wine with each entrée ordered.

Football Season Specials

During football game screenings on Sundays and Thursdays, the Indian Wells Tavern in Amagansett will offer a bar menu of $6 items, along with $6 pints of beer and $4 cans of Pabst Blue Ribbon or Miller Lite. During Monday-night games, a “burger, brew, and wings” special will be offered at the bar and in the dining room for $17.

Townline BBQ in Sagaponack has also instituted football season specials, which will be offered on Thursdays and Fridays between 3 and 8 p.m. and all day on Saturdays, Sundays, and Mondays. Mondays at the restaurant are also industry days, when those in the restaurant biz will be offered discounts. The deals include discounted cocktails, shots, and beer, and snack food specials.

Seafood Festival

This weekend will draw seafood lovers to Montauk for the hamlet’s second annual Seafood Festival at the Montauk Marine Basin and Uihlein’s Marina. On Saturday and Sunday from noon to 5 p.m., rain or shine, chefs from local restaurants, caterers, and vendors will be on hand offering all kinds of sea fare, from lobster rolls to seafood crepes, chowder, sushi, tacos, and raw shellfish. Local beers and wine will be available, as well as some landlubbers’ grub: burgers, hot dogs, and steamed corn. There will be dessert stations as well.

The festival, which is sponsored by the Montauk Friends of Erin and the Kiwanis Club of East Hampton, will also include live music and activities for young and old, as described elsewhere in this issue.

Snail Supper

Slow Food East End is taking reservations for a “snail supper” on Sept. 21, which will mark the group’s 10th anniversary. Attendance at the potluck is free, though participants have been asked to take a favorite slow-food dish to share, serving six to eight, along with a serving utensil and their own beverages.

The event will be held at the Havens House barn on the Shelter Island Historical Society grounds from 4 to 7 p.m. Those who wish to attend can sign up at the slowfoodeastend.org website. Volunteers are being sought to lend a hand with set-up and clean-up, and can offer their help by sending an email to Linda Slezak at [email protected]

Fall at Topping Rose

The Topping Rose House restaurant and inn in Bridgehampton has some special offers of interest to foodies this fall. A “Swirl, Sniff, and Sip” special available until Nov. 3 includes one night’s accommodation, breakfast for two in the restaurant, and a walking tour of the Wolffer Estate vineyard in Sagaponack featuring a “hands-on winemaking experience” and a wine, cheese, and charcuterie tasting. The cost is $999 plus tax and gratuity.

A “Harvest in the Hamptons” special, for $659 plus, offers a one-night stay with breakfast, along with a three-course dinner and apple or pumpkin-picking at the Milk Pail farm in Water Mill. Visitors may take home an apple pie or a pumpkin pie, or apple or pumpkin butter made from their harvest by Topping Rose’s pastry chef.

Lunch and Recital

A champagne lunch and recital at the American Hotel in Sag Harbor on Sunday will celebrate the hotel’s decade-long support for the Judy Carmichael Trio, which will perform. The cost is $150. Reservations may be made at JudyCarmichael.com.

Mexican Celebration

La Fondita in Amagansett will have some specials on its takeout menu tomorrow through Sunday in honor of Mexican Independence Day. They include tamales with chicken, pork, or poblano peppers; chicken in red mole sauce, and, for dessert, chocolate churros.

Sustainable Fisheries and Lunch

A forum on sustainable fisheries taking place at the Coast restaurant in Montauk on Sept. 20 will include a series of panel discussions moderated by Paul Greenberg, the author of two books on sustainable fisheries, and a light lunch prepared by Tony Berkho, the restaurant’s executive chef.

The forum, from 12:30 to 3 p.m., is sponsored by Concerned Citizens of Montauk; admission is free but reservations are required and may be made by emailing Deborah Klughers at dklughers @preservemontauk.org.

Meet the Winemakers

A series of dinners at Noah’s restaurant in Greenport will celebrate the harvest season with a focus on East End vineyards. Representatives of a particular winery will be on hand for each dinner to discuss the wines paired with a five-course meal. The cost is $95 plus tax and gratuity; members of the featured vineyard’s wine club will receive a 10 percent discount. Reservations have been strongly recommended for these Sunday-night events, which begin on Sept. 28 with Kelly Urbanik of Macari Vineyards and Wines.

 

Brewing for 20 Years

Brewing for 20 Years

Andres and Cheryl Bedini have been roasting Java Nation’s beans from the start, a way to ensure the freshness of the coffee they sell and serve.
Andres and Cheryl Bedini have been roasting Java Nation’s beans from the start, a way to ensure the freshness of the coffee they sell and serve.
Taylor K. Vecsey
By
Taylor K. Vecsey

Java Nation in Bridgehampton, a coffee roastery that for 18 years had been in Sag Harbor, celebrated its 20th anniversary earlier this month.

More than two decades ago, Andres Bedini and his then girlfriend, Cheryl, had an idea while visiting her parents in Sag Harbor that led them to completely switch gears — she was in law school and he was working as a financial analyst — and start their own business. Living in California, where Mr. Bedini said the coffee movement really began, they drank a lot of coffee. “On one of our summer trips back here, we’re sitting in the Main Street Tavern in Sag Harbor, and we’re like, ‘Man, we’d love a cup of coffee right now. How could there be nowhere to get coffee?’ This was 1992 — there was nowhere to get coffee.” They said to each other, “ ‘What if we opened up a coffee shop?’ ”

At the time, Mr. Bedini said, they were thinking along the lines of a “funky coffee house” with poetry readings. On the advice of coffee shop owners on the West Coast, they decided to roast coffee so they could control the freshness and how dark they wanted the beans.

They weren’t exactly coffee connoisseurs yet. “We loved coffee, but we didn’t know anything — nothing. I’m still learning and it’s been 20 years,” Mr. Bedini said, adding that they immersed themselves in education over the years, from seminars on roasting and making espresso to traveling to coffee-growing regions, where they would see how coffee was picked, processed, and shipped.

Bridgehampton was actually supposed to be the roaster’s location to begin with. They had picked out a spot at the Bridgehampton Commons, only to be told after months of negotiations that they couldn’t locate there because of the competition it would pose for Rossano’s, which once occupied Panera Bread’s location. “I was crying in the kitchen, ‘I don’t want to practice law,’ ” Ms. Bedini recalled.

Mr. Bedini found a spot in the Shopping Cove in Sag Harbor, an alleyway off Main Street. They weren’t able to open until Labor Day weekend.

Back in 1994, roasteries were still somewhat of a new experience. “It was hard at first. No one was buying beans back then. There wasn’t a big brew-at-home market. It was something maybe you picked up at the market. People still wanted regular coffee,” he said. Starbucks had only just opened its first store in New York City. “Starbucks helped us a lot. It kind of converted people from the deli coffee to the specialty coffee.”

Java Nation serves up coffees by country of origin; you won’t find flavored coffees there. Instead, the Bedinis rotate different coffee beans based on the time of the year. “Coffee from Honduras is unbelievable right now. They’re having an incredible year. Colombia is having a big rebound year,” he said. “Brazil is having a bad year for them. They usually produce 60 million bags a year. This year it will be 50,” he said, referring to the drought that affected the crop and caused the price of coffee to double in 90 days over the winter.

Java Nation stayed open through the winters from the start, but didn’t get busy year round until 1998. “That was kind of the time when Sag Harbor really started booming,” Mr. Bedini said.

“It was a lot of hard work,” Ms. Bedini said. “It was exciting. We were always learning something new. We had mistakes and successes and we learned from those. That kept it stimulating.”

The store has always kept a narrow focus on being a roastery, as opposed to a coffee shop, and wholesale is a large part of their business, especially since moving to Bridgehampton. Java Nation’s coffee is sold at Provisions and served at the Altantic Golf Club, for example. The store also ships whole beans and ground coffee by mail.

The key to staying in business for two decades, Mr. Bedini said, is adapting. “That’s just life. It’s constantly throwing you curve balls. Change is constant,” he said.

The past few years have been especially difficult. In 2012, Java Nation had to leave its home of 18 years when the landlord rented the space to another coffee shop, angering longtime customers. In July of that year, it opened in its more industrial space on Maple Lane near the Bridgehampton train station.

The following year, Ms. Bedini’s father, Wesley Carrion, who was 90, died after his house caught fire in Sag Harbor Hills. Mr. Bedini said Mr. Carrion had always championed their business.

Java Nation’s reincarnation is showing promise. “It’s a lot busier than I thought. We’ve got a lot of new customers,” Mr. Bedini said, adding that he also has more wholesale customers now. Open 7:30 a.m. to 6 p.m. seven days a week, with little help other than in the summer, Mr. Bedini said the shop has taken new shape. Customers don’t linger like they used to in Sag Harbor, and the weekdays are busier than the weekends, the opposite of what was true in Sag Harbor.

Mr. Bedini said while he had thought about calling it quits, he is proud, but modest, about surviving two decades in business. “Your customers make you. If they still want you, it’s worth it,” he said.

 

 

News for Foodies 9.18.14

News for Foodies 9.18.14

By
Joanne Pilgrim

Duryea’s Lobster Deck in Montauk will remain open daily through the Columbus Day weekend for customers to order and eat on the Fort Pond Bay-front deck starting at noon. The takeout seafood market will be open through the Christmas holidays. Seafood can be pre-cooked for customers, upon request.

 

Champagne at Gig Shack

In Montauk, 668 the Gig Shack is continuing its “champagne campaign” through the fall. Every Sunday beginning at 5:30 p.m., various types of champagne will be offered at half price, while a bubble machine pumps out bubbles, a la “The Lawrence Welk Show.” Children will be given their own bubble wands to blow bubbles.

 

Mexican Specials

The lineup of Mexican takeout specials at La Fondita in Amagansett is as follows: tacos rancheros and huarache, a dish of layered meat, refried beans, cheese, and corn flour on Wednesdays, chicken chipotle tacos, tostadas, or quesadillas, or posole on Thursdays, and on Fridays, chiles rellenos and pork or steak tacos. On Saturdays, the special is marinated steak tacos or roasted marinated pork tacos al pastor. The takeout shop is closed on Monday and Tuesday.

 

Happy Hour

Specialty cocktails are offered at two-for-one prices, and complimentary pizzas served at the bar at Nick & Toni’s in East Hampton during a 5:30 to 6:30 p.m. happy hour on Mondays, Wednesdays, Thursdays, and Fridays.

 

Oktoberfest Begins

Rowdy Hall restaurant in East Hampton starts its annual Oktoberfest celebration on Saturday with a festival from 3 to 5 p.m. featuring German bar snacks and a live radio broadcast from the eatery’s courtyard, which will be set up with picnic tables as a traditional German beer garden. Inside, there will be communal dining tables.

Each week through early October, Rowdy will offer a German prix fixe dinner special. The first, offered from Saturday through Wednesday, will be wienerschnitzel with sautéed black kale and lemon, with plum cake for dessert. Next Thursday, the new special entrée will be kassler rippchen, served with apple strudel, through Sept. 28.  The cost is $24. Oktoberfest beer specials will be available from Sunday through Oct. 5.

 

New in Sag Harbor

The Harbor Market & Kitchen will open early next year in Sag Harbor, in the Division Street space formerly occupied by Espresso’s.

Paul Del Favero, a chef, and his wife, Susana Plaza Del Favero, will offer takeout breakfast, lunch, and dinner items, as well as groceries.

Renovation of the building, which has been a market since the 1950s, including as Federico’s Superette, began during the summer and will continue through the fall.

A redesigned kitchen will include a wood-burning oven to be used to make pizza, sandwiches, and some Mediterranean-style specialties. The menu, which will change with the seasons, will also include daily soups, breakfast specials, and kid-friendly items.

The market will offer fresh produce, local eggs, and other staples.

Mr. Del Favero’s background on the East End includes stints at Nick & Toni’s and the Maidstone Arms. For the past decade or so, he has been chef de cuisine at Bobby Flay’s Mesa Grill in Las Vegas.

 

Beer and Bed in Montauk

The Montauk Blue hotel is offering a two-night stay special through October that includes a beer tasting at the Montauk Brewing Company. Rates begin at $249 a night.

 

Chefs Together

The American Culinary Federation’s Eastern Long Island Chefs chapter will host an event on Sept. 28 at the Westhampton Beach Country Club that will raise money for Slow Food’s Edible Garden project and the federation’s Chefs Move to School initiative. Both efforts involve local farmers and chefs in planting, harvesting, and cooking foods from gardens planted at East End schools.

More than two dozen chefs, farmers, and brewers will participate. Among the restaurants to be represented will be Noah’s, Fresh Hamptons, the Plaza Café, and the Jedediah Hawkins Inn. George Hirsch, a chef and TV host on PBS, will be the master of ceremonies.

Tickets are $75 for general admission and $125 for V.I.P. admission, which includes admission to a screening of the documentary “Shellshocked: Saving Oysters to Save Ourselves,” at the Westhampton Beach Performing Arts Center. It will be followed by a reception featuring sparkling wine and oysters.

Tickets may be reserved at acfelichefs.org or be purchased at the door.

 

At Cafe Max

At Cafe Max in East Hampton, two-for-one entrees are offered daily between 5:30 and 6 p.m. Cafe Max also offers a $22 prix fixe all night Sundays through Thursdays.