Agricultural Tourism Gets a State Boost
New York State has a big push under way to promote what is known as agritourism. On the East End, this is mainly the phenomena of drawing large masses of paying visitors to wineries, as is seen on the North Fork. And it also extends to breweries and distilleries. This week, Gov. Andrew M. Cuomo announced a $2 million program to promote destinations and events. A mobile app backed by the state will be revamped to further pump up food and beverage travel.
Growers and producers have come to depend on direct-to-consumer sales. Many say the money that comes in that way is what keeps them in business. But for neighbors and public safety officials agritourism comes at a high cost. Traffic on the North Fork is intolerable on weekends when the wineries are full and wedding season under way. In an extreme example, four young women were killed and four injured when a limousine in which they were riding to a bridal party at a winery in Cutchogue made an illegal U-turn in front of a pickup truck whose driver was allegedly under the influence of alcohol.
Local planning and zoning laws are supposed to help guide potentially problematic business development. However, thanks to favorable state laws, certain tasting rooms and agricultural retail operations are exempt from them. This upends meaningful land use and can lead to an unfair commercial advantage for brewers and farmers over other businesses. The rapid growth of Balsam Farms in Amagansett, the big crowds outside the Montauk Brewing Company in Montauk, and the booming success of the Wolffer Estate stand on Montauk Highway in Sagaponack are examples of enterprises that would be much more difficult, if not impossible, had they been entirely subject to the rules that apply to ordinary retailers, restaurants, or bars.
On the plus side, wineries, farms, and beer makers provide jobs and, in downtrodden areas of upstate New York, for example, can be an important source of economic activity. On the South Fork, however, their benefit is less obvious and the rationale for special treatment is a little bit muddy.
It is good that Albany as been putting money toward promoting agriculture. However, as agritourism appears only ready to grow — especially here on the South Fork — more control must be returned to local government. As much as we might like our wine and beer, it is important to make sure retail tasting rooms and wineries expand in keeping with their communities’ rules and expectations.