Budding Sommeliers

When Robert Fairbrother moved to the East End a year or so ago to become general manager of the Laundry, he was surprised to find there was no local chapter of the Sommelier Society of America.

He asked around and found that others were interested in the trade organization as well, and in November a Long Island chapter was formed, quietly perhaps, except to those in the restaurant and wine businesses.

The local chapter's first activity was to organize a 21-week course leading to a sommelier's certificate. It began last month at SagPond Vineyards in Sagaponack.

Big Turnout

Mr. Fairbrother expected perhaps a dozen students. In fact, 26 restaurant owners, wait staff, and winery personnel, all but one of them from East End businesses, have signed up.

The course covers such topics as viticulture and winemaking, the various growing regions of the world, different varietals and styles of wine, how to pair food and wine, other beverages, and the practical sides of purchasing and storage.

It is intended to give "a good strong foundation" to restaurant personnel and others involved with the world of wine, Mr. Fairbrother said.

"It really broadens their horizons and makes them a bit more educated about their products."

Sommelier's Credentials

The course is a prerequisite for certification as an advanced sommelier and, finally, a master sommelier. The instructors include local winemakers and members of the national organization.

Mr. Fairbrother taught the first session, on purchasing and storage, sales and service, and cigars. Roman Roth, the winemaker at SagPond Vineyards, helped give students an introduction to viniculture and viticulture, and will return as a teacher to discuss wines from Germany and the Southern Hemisphere and to give a vineyard and winery tour.

Larry Perrine, the winemaker at the new Channing's Daughters Winery in Bridgehampton, has taught a session on the wines of Burgundy and will also explore those of Loire, Alsace, and other regions including the American Northeast.

International Master

Last March at Pellegrini Vineyards in Cutchogue, master sommelier members of the society competed to represent this country in an international wine-tasting event. The winner, Andrea Immer, at the time one of only three women in America to hold the title of master sommelier, is also volunteering her time for the East End class.

She is teaching the wines of Bordeaux, Spain, Portugal, and emerging regions. Roger Dagorn, a master sommelier who is chairman of the national society, will teach champagne and sparkling wine and port, sherry, and Madeira.

Students in the East End course will receive their sommelier certificates on June 29.