East End Eats: Bay Street Cafe

When snow is forecast and the skies are gloomy and there's a howling wind coming off the harbor, it's hard to drag yourself away from the comforts of home, even for a promising meal in front of a fire. Remember, though, that dining out in wintertime, you have the chance to experience what V.I.P. treatment feels like, especially at a smaller restaurant like the intimate Bay Street Cafe in Sag Harbor.

The elements, nasty and chilling outside, were working in our favor on a recent visit. We had the best seats in the house, right in front of a flickering gas fireplace. White Christmas lights decorating artfully arranged branches in the rafters gave the place a warm glow. And because everyone else had fallen prey to the hibernating impulse, the place was ours and the service was as attentive and welcoming as we could ask for.

Chef From Spot's

The Bay Street Cafe, run by Judy Simonson, her son, Justin Levine (the chef), and his fiance, Diana Nolan, opened just over a month ago in what was, until recently, the All Seasons Cafe. If the name sounds familiar, it's because it is. A restaurant at the same spot a few years back was called the Bay Street Cafe. If Ms. Simonson and Mr. Levine also seem familiar, it's because they briefly ran the now defunct Sag Harbor brunch and dinner place called Spot's.

As he proved at Spot's, Mr. Levine is a talented chef with a broad repertoire. He seems able to make chicken wings as interesting as beef carpaccio, and that's no small feat. Even the few dishes we sampled were enough to hint that everything on the menu is likely to be first-rate.

Great Wings, Plump Mussels

The staff is still working on a wine list. "I'm it," the bartender said with a smile, when we asked for one. She recommended a pinot grigio that fit well with the meal.

The Bay Street menu is Asian-French and is quite varied for such a small place. From a savory Asian barbecue sauce on the chicken wings to a delicate parsley and Dijon cream sauce that flavored a wild mushroom ragout in pastry to an exotic coconut-red curry broth for the mussels, the chef proved that he can deliver what the menu promises.

The wings were the best I've ever had - the sauce spicy and sweet with bits of ginger. The mushroom ragout was subtle and pleasant. The mussels were as plump as can be in a sauce that was delicious but not overpowering. The tasty pepper-seared beef carpaccio, a fourth appetizer, was sliced paper-thin and served over baby spinach with black truffle oil and balsamic reduction.

When it came to entrees, filet mignon, grilled salmon, and duck breast won out. Each was cooked to perfection. The duck was served with stir-fried greens and rather dull rice, but was covered with a fantastic ginger barbecue sauce. The filet mignon with pink peppercorns was stellar. It came with a huge mound of truffle whipped potatoes and spinach that was cooked just to wilting, as it should be, but was a bit over-salted.

Souffles A Specialty

A piquant and zesty grilled salmon steak had a lemongrass soy glaze and was accompanied by a cous cous zucchini timbale. Wonderful.

We were tempted, too, by the Bay Street bouillabaisse and the tuna with a sesame seed crust and coconut ginger sauce, but decided to save those for next time.

Grand Marnier, chocolate, and praline dessert souffles for two are a Bay Street Cafe specialty and must be ordered by the time your entrees arrive. We took the bait and discovered that a chocolate souffle for two will easily serve four. Don't say we didn't warn you. In addition, we sampled a wonderful banana creme brulee and fresh raspberries with a white chocolate sauce.

The meal was a winner from start to finish and surely it won't be long before the place is packed every Friday and Saturday night. All the more reason to try it before the crowds descend.

While prices are on par with some of the more expensive local restaurants, the Bay Street Cafe is one of those where the food is well worth the indulgence. At dinner, appetizers range from $7 to $10; entrees are $21 to $28. On Wednesdays and Thursdays the restaurant has a three-course prix fixe starting at $28.

Given the scores of dinner deals this time of year, the cafe may want to consider going a bit lower, just to get those first-time patrons in the door. The food is special enough that they're sure to return and spread the word.

I know we will.