A Fish-Stinking History

The 40-pound striped bass that lately have been blanketing East End fishing docks were drawn to local waters by the arrival of Atlantic menhaden, or bunker as they are known locally. The name menhaden is derived from a blend of Native American words that mean “he fertilizes,” which refers to the fish’s early use as fertilizer, including by the pilgrims in the early-17th century.  

Menhaden are critical to the ecology of coastal waters. They are foraging open-mouth feeders that can filter up to four gallons of seawater a minute. Menhaden consume large volumes of algae, which mitigates dangerous algae blooms generated by nitrogen runoff from fertilizers, wastewater, and failing septic systems. The fish also are a favorite prey species of sport fish, including striped bass, bluefish, tuna, and sharks, as well as an important food source for many local bird species including ospreys, egrets, seagulls, and herons. 

Atlantic menhaden are the most heavily commercially harvested fish, by volume, on the East Coast, according to the National Ocean and Atmospheric Association. Only pollock off Alaska are landed in greater volume. 

Omega Protein Corporation, founded in 1913, takes about 90 percent of the menhaden collected in United States waters to manufacture fish oil, fishmeal, and aquaculture feed products. The total quota for Atlantic menhaden set by the Atlantic States Marine Fisheries Commission in 2016 is 187,800 metric tons. To paraphrase Elvis, that’s a hunka hunka bunker. 

Menhaden are highly valued as a rich source of omega-3 fatty acids, which have been shown to cut risks of heart disease and possibly other ailments, including Alzheimer’s. The balance of the menhaden bounty is sold commercially as bait. 

The history of East Hampton and the bunker are intertwined. At one time there were multiple factories that processed menhaden into fishmeal on Napeague and in Promised Land, an area along Gardiner’s Bay west of Napeague Harbor. A 1998 East Hampton Star article reported that Fannie Gardiner — who may or may not have been right — claimed that the name Promised Land arose when “an act of Congress ‘promised’ that [a] fish factory could be located at Napeague and never moved due to odor from fish.”

In calm seas a school of bunker can be recognized from a distance by an agitating ripple on the surface of the water. One school of bunker can cover an acre of water and contain tens of thousands of fish. The more tightly compact the school the greater the chance a predator is in the vicinity. Menhaden are said to surface more often on a flood tide than on the ebb and more often in gentle seas than in rough ones.  

There are several strategies for fishing with bunker and around bunker schools. A common and proven approach is to cast a weighted treble hook into a packed school of bunker and jerk the line until one is snagged. The hooked and injured bunker is left in the water to attract a striped bass, bluefish, or other target species. An alternate tactic is to retrieve the snagged bunker and rig it on a traditional “J” or circle hook and cast it around the edge of the bunker school where its impaired condition will attract predators looking for an easy meal. Those who want to fill a live well with the bronze beauties should try using a cast net, which, when artfully tossed, can capture a large quantity of uninjured fish. Anglers can also cut bunker into chunks and fish them on the bottom. 

The Atlantic menhaden cleans our turbid waters, provides life-enhancing oils, and attracts sport fish for anglers’ enjoyment. Yet, like the Suffolk County native and departed comedian Rodney Dangerfield, it gets no respect. If New Englanders can call a menhaden a pogie, maybe we East Enders should call it a Rodney. Just seems right.

Local waters are very warm, if not hot, and so is fishing.  

Fluke fishing around Montauk Point is cranking. Frisbees and Midway rips are particularly productive now, reported T.J. at Gone Fishing Marina in Montauk. Some big stripers have been landed but over all striper fishing has moderated as a result of the bunker moving out of Montauk, he added. Sea bass, porgy, and bluefish up to 18 pounds continue to bite aggressively. T.J. noted that offshore action is picking up with one boat returning with an 80-inch bluefin tuna, a 185-pound bigeye, and several yellowfins. A sailfish was sighted by multiple boats not far from the Lighthouse, said T.J., another indication of very warm local waters. 

Fluke, sea bass, and porgy fishing are all strong on the far side of Gardiner’s Island, but fish have moved into water as deep as 80 feet, according to Sebastian Gorgone at Mrs. Sam’s Bait and Tackle in East Hampton. Harvey Bennett at the Tackle Shop in Amagansett reported bass at Georgica Beach and Sammy’s Beach, fluke at Napeague, and hot freshwater action in Montauk’s Fort Pond.  

Weakfish continue their strong showing in the Peconic Bay, though fish 12 to 16 inches are the norm, reported Ken Morse at Tight Lines Tackle in Sag Harbor. Crabbers can find blue claws in the Peconic Bay. Morse recommended crabbing at night and using a flashlight to spot blue claws along the shoreline. No bait needed. Fluke and porgies can be found at Cedar Point, he added.

Peter Honerkamp, a local businessman and former softball great, caught a 30-pound striper at the Sluiceway on a drifted eel while fishing with Capt. Ken Rafferty. It was Honerkamp’s first striped bass. 

The 14th annual Montauk Mercury Grand Slam honoring Jake Nessel of the Ebbtide was held last weekend.

The winners of the recreational division from the boat Jezebel were Jonathan Perkins, Shawn Ackley, Al Williamson, and Jeff Harrison. They received a 150-horsepower Mercury motor, compliments of Dan DeGray and Mercury Marine. Bryan Pieros’s boat Day Tripper came in second and won an 8-horsepower Mercury motor. Isaac Tilstra’s boat the Sarah Rose came in third and received a 5-horsepower Mercury motor.

In the individual angler awards, Sam Doughty won for striped bass with a weight of 44.55 pounds. William Callas won for bluefish with a weight of 14.2 pounds, Jonathan Perkins for fluke with a weight of 9.05 pounds, and Isaac Tilstra for sea bass with a weight of 4.2 pounds.

In the professional division, Capt. Rick Etzel and the Breakaway beat Richie Nessel and the Nasty Ness by less than a point to win the $3,000 cash prize.

Capt. Mike Vegessi and the Lazybones won the party boat division.

All kids that caught a fish were automatically entered in a raffle for a Mercury inflatable with a 2.5-horsepower motor. The winner was William Quackenbush.

The 24th Annual Mako, Thresher, and Tuna Tournament at Star Island Yacht Club and Marina runs next Thursday through July 30. Details can be learned at 631-668-5052.