Relay: Black Cat and ‘Cold Water’
Does merely passing through someplace on a bus count as actually visiting that place?
Not really, I have been told. Maybe it’s a superficial way to see what a small piece of a place looks like, but there is limited opportunity for a meaningful cultural exchange.
Consider my experiences on Shelter Island. I am a fairly recent arrival on the East End, having lived here for about a year and nine months, but I had never really spent time on Shelter Island.
My significant other, Jason, himself a recent arrival in my life, was a bit incredulous when I told him this. He’s a big fan of Shelter Island and resolved to take me there for a date. My only experience there was a bus ride I took as a reporter in the spring of 2015 with a group of John M. Marshall Elementary School fifth graders who were on their way to a field trip on Plum Island. The ride was fun and interesting, but mostly because fifth graders are pretty hilarious. However, I wouldn’t have described that trip as a meaningful cultural exchange.
That changed on the afternoon of Nov. 20, when Jason and I loaded our car onto the South Ferry with a plan to drive around the town, visit Black Cat Books, break in my new digital camera with some candid photography, and meet friends for dinner at Commander Cody’s.
The start of the trip was far from auspicious. It was raining and the wind had seriously picked up. Our car was first in line on the ferry, so it was a bit like riding in the first car of a roller coaster, which I normally like to do. This was different, though, and as water splashed horizontally across the windshield and the ferry rocked hard on the waves, the song playing on the radio was “Cold Water” by Major Lazer and Justin Bieber.
Stop judging my taste in music. For those who haven’t had the pleasure of listening to the lyrics, the chorus begins like this: “And if you feel you’re sinking, I will jump right over into cold, cold water for you.”
Jason turned the radio off and held my hand.
I sighed in relief when we finally got off the ferry. I had been holding my breath.
However gloomy the weather, Shelter Island welcomed me with the charming feel of a New England seaside village. The architecture intrigued me everywhere we went. I imagined myself living in a house there someday (then promptly imagined an almost daily round trip by ferry to work, at which point the anxiety returned). Why hadn’t I noticed the beautiful houses the last time I was here? Oh, right — that bus full of excited fifth graders was pretty distracting.
We drove to Ram’s Island, where Jason explained that the land bridge we were driving on is called a tombolo and told me all about the Shelter Island Conference of 1947. I later did a Google search to learn more about how the field of quantum physics was essentially born at the Ram’s Head Inn following World War II — fascinating. Sometimes you just never know what you don’t know.
At Black Cat Books, the floor-to-ceiling shelves of used and rare books were pretty exciting. After much exploration, my reading list grew by one — a second-hand copy of “Gone Girl” that Jason bought for me — and I found a Christmas gift for a family member: a hardcover book of reproductions of sketches by a famous Japanese artist.
The sun finished setting while we were inside Black Cat. Not long after we emerged and began driving again, some illuminated stained-glass windows in a building on a side road caught my eye. The rows of vertical windows with stunning colors are embedded in my mind, but I can’t figure out what building it was. It was so dark out, and I cannot recall what street we were on. Was it a church? Historical society center? Privately owned building? If anyone knows, please call me here at the Star office.
When our friends arrived, we headed to Commander Cody’s, which Jason had been talking up for weeks. The fried calamari was tender, clearly made fresh rather than from a frozen source. I burned my tongue on a spectacular cup of Manhattan clam chowder, then Jason and I shared a pound of killer baby back ribs and a plate of fish and chips. I can see why it’s his favorite restaurant.
We headed home after that. Because top-40 hits are all radio stations seem to play these days, we heard “Cold Water” again on the ferry ride back. That got turned off, too.
With regard to the to-do list we’d set out with, we accomplished almost everything. I took exactly one photo with my new camera the entire time we were there, and it’s pretty terrible. But I have a strong feeling I’ll be back for more.
Christine Sampson is a reporter at The Star.