Seasons by the Sea: Eight Nights of Latkes
When it was suggested to me that I participate in a latke-making party and write a story about it, my initial response was, “Hmmm, doesn’t sound like much of a food story. Grated potatoes fried in oil? How interesting or complicated can that be?” When I heard that a number of children would be helping, I thought, “Now it’s getting interesting.” And when I learned about all the delicious varieties of latkes in existence, I was much enthused.
The latke-making marathon was held at Toby and Arnold Spitz’s house in Sag Harbor for a Hanukkah party and concert to be held at the Temple Adas Israel, the oldest synagogue on Long Island. Toby, a fun, energetic lady, is the chairwoman of the cultural programs committee and, we were delighted to discover, an awesome cook. She had already prepped most of the ingredients to make several hundred of three varieties of latkes — classic potato, a curried sweet potato, and zucchini with feta.
When the kids arrived — Clark, Jessica, Julian, and Siena, ranging in age from 8 to 12 — we got to work. There were still plenty of potatoes that needed peeling, onions to grate, spices to be measured, and eggs to be beaten. Jessica and Siena enjoyed dancing to the Klezmatics as they peeled potatoes . . . mostly over the trash can. Clark and Julian took on the manly tasks of egg beating and onion grating. Fortunately, the food processor was standing by to perform in three seconds what it was taking eight people an hour to do.
There were two big nonstick skillets and one griddle on the stove ready for frying. We began with the Sephardic zucchini pancakes, which were full of green onions, fresh herbs, and feta cheese. These are Toby’s favorite latkes, especially in late summer when zucchini is so plentiful.
As the kitchen floor got a bit littered, the countertops covered in flotsam and jetsam, and the air filled with oily-fry odors, I asked Toby what made her so lucky she was saddled with this massive task. “Apparently, I’m the only member who has a five-burner stove!” she laughed good-naturedly. In between directing the kids and moms, she explained that the Festival of Lights is considered one of the minor Jewish holidays, but certainly a wonderful one for food. In essence “we were persecuted, we survived, let’s eat!”
Next up were the sweet potato latkes, inspired by the now-defunct New Prospect Cafe in Park Slope. These were lightly sweetened with brown sugar and had a bit of curry and cumin in them. Toby suggested serving them with chicken and a salad.
There were now 10 of us in the kitchen, in various degrees of helping out, and we were getting more peckish by the hour. Latkes were disappearing. “This is a latke-making party for the temple, not a latke-tasting party!” I might have heard someone say.
At one point, Arnold, who had been a jovial good sport throughout the takeover of the kitchen, asked, “Could I have some lunch now?” Alas, the major production of a quadrupled potato latke recipe was about to begin. Out came some red wine. The kids tested the old wives’ tale theory of “a piece of bread in the mouth will protect your eyes from grated onion gas.” It does not work.
Then the moms, Soozy and Sharon, took over the frying. I marveled at the kids’ willingness and camaraderie of working for hours together on a cooking project. They are all experienced cooks and had no fear of spattering oil, sharp box graters, and unwieldy peelers. They have been friends for life and attend Hebrew school together.
I asked Toby her theories on potato starch. Rinse the grated potatoes or not? Squeeze out in a dishtowel? Submerge in water to discourage discoloration? Cook in schmaltz? I even tossed out a bit of my own Yiddish knowledge, explaining “fleishig” to the kids. This earned me the nickname “goychick.” Haha, I’ll take it.
Finally, the three kinds of latkes were done, drained, and getting stacked up on parchment-covered sheet pans for Sunday night’s concert and celebration. I enjoyed imagining the members of Temple Adas Israel marveling at the delicious and plentiful array of latkes, made with small hands and big hearts. It was an honor and an education to be a part of it. Thank you, Toby, Arnold, Soozy, Sharon, Jessica, Julian, Siena, and Clark!
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