Seasons by the Sea: Farewell, Market Season

Here it is, early November, and the farmer’s market in Sag Harbor this past weekend still had peppers, corn, lettuce, and other greens, along with the usual suspects of winter squash, potatoes, apples, onions, garlic, and more. Maybe it was the fact that the last market of the season (the 12th) was on Halloween, but there was definitely a festive atmosphere, along with a few early-morning costumes.

For the last 20 years out here I have been working as a pastry chef, therefore did not have Friday (Nick and Toni’s) or Saturday (Sag Harbor) mornings off to go to the markets. This past summer was more “leisurely” for me, and I made a point of going every Saturday, stocking up on greens and other vegetables, flowers, fruits, olive oil, soaps, salts, bread, fish, cheese, honey, even dog treats. Some of the vendors I have known for years, but some, like the farm interns from Quail Hill, change from year to year.

Of the 24 vendors participating, only about 12 were still manning their tents this past weekend. Blue Duck Bakery dropped out a few weeks ago; Dennis from True Blue Coffee ran out of coffee a while back; there are no more flowers, and I have no idea why Gula Gula Empanadas hasn’t been there for a while, cuz they make a tasty breakfast treat.

Dave Falkowski                                                                                                                     Laura Donnelly

I find that I linger the longest at Open Minded Organics, Dave Falkowski’s stand. I’m pretty sure he may have been a hawker in an Asian market in a previous life because that boy can sell! You can hear his voice carrying over all others, sharing recipes, explaining the mushrooms’ culinary and medicinal uses, and telling folks how and when to plant seed garlic. This weekend he expressed some relief that the season is over and shared a drawing of a cold smoker he built himself.

Jeri Woodhouse of Taste of the North Fork had discounted his frozen pestos (cilantro, arugula, basil) to $5 each, so I stocked up. I probably have enough jars of Charissa harissa, the marvelous Moroccan condiment that goes with everything, but I bought more anyway. For gifts, I swear!

Philip, representing Wolffer Estate Winery, was wearing a fighter pilot uniform. When I suggested he keep the noise down when he flies into our local airport, everyone laughed. Definitely a local crowd at Saturday’s market.

On that last day I purchased the following: cauliflower, red cabbage, and onions from Quail Hill; a bag of lettuce, fingerling potatoes, and shiitake mushrooms from Dave; cornmeal, apples, and the last-of-the-season sweet corn from Dale and Bette, a.k.a. Under the Willow Farm; a bottle of white wine from Wolffer, and halibut from my buddy Alex of the Seafood Shop in Wainscott.

Alex from the Seafood Shop                                                                                                   Laura Donnelly

The fingerlings were sliced and roasted with olive oil and rosemary, the red cabbage was braised with a bit of bacon fat, apples, onions, vinegar, and maple syrup. I made a polenta with the cornmeal, which was a colorful variety of ground flint corn. As I cooked it, the color changed from light sand to lavender to taupe to something between all three. Not very attractive, but I can assure you, once I topped it with sauteed shiitakes and fresh herbs, it didn’t matter.

I roasted the cauliflower florets with onions and curry powder, and the apples shared a pie filling with huckleberries I’d gotten from a chef friend.

Between cooking I walked back down to the market to watch the dismantling of the season and take a few pictures. Gabriel and Ryan from Quail Hill found it hard to believe I had cooked so much in the few hours since I’d seen them that morning. They rewarded me with some smoked peppers and more cabbage. Thanks, guys!

I steamed the corn to cut off the cob and freeze for winter. I have to admit, this last batch was a bit watery, but I figure once it’s in a chowder in February, nobody will complain.

Lastly, what to do with the lovely halibut? I decided to go all Frenchie and make a mash-up of bechamel-Bercyvelouté. In other words, I just winged it by making a light bechamel, adding shallots that had been boiled down in the Wolffer white wine, and fresh herbs still struggling valiantly in my garden. It was divine. All in all, I was quite pleased with myself and had made enough food for dinner for two, leftovers for three neighbors, and enough still for one more meal for moi.

Halibut                                                                                                                                    Laura Donnelly

The atmosphere at the last market was festive and panicky at the same time. Festive for those who don’t have to work so hard again until spring, panicky for those of us who abhor winter and will miss the ritual of waddling down to the market on the bay every Saturday for company and sustenance.

I will purchase a winter share at Quail Hill, and I can buy Bee’s Needs honey, Charissa harissa, and Blue Duck breads at my local I.G.A., but it’s just not the same. Maybe I should have gotten a few more potatoes and cabbages and peppers and heads of garlic and oil and, and, and. . . .

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