Seasons by the Sea: Life Is a Picnic
This is the time of year when we want to spend as much time as possible outdoors on the water, at the beach, in a park. So naturally we want to bring along foods that are easy to transport, are tasty and stay fresh, and, most important, remain safe. Here are two facts: One, the more equipment you bring, the better equipped you will be. In other words, if you don’t mind bringing one or two coolers and a collapsible table, you will be so much happier. Keeping your food off the blanket in the sand is crucial. With kids and dogs, it is inevitable that sand will get kicked around and ruin your s’mores. Two, commercial mayonnaise is not Picnic Enemy Number One. It is, in fact, a stable food and perfectly safe at room temperature.
While researching picnic and boating excursion options I was appalled at some of the suggestions. Granted, a lot of the boat people weighing in with food ideas were men who clearly are not gourmets and are the least concerned about a balanced and delicious meal. One fellow suggested M.R.E.s (military food, just add water, yum!), Gatorade, and beef jerky. Another said bring a Thermos of hot water, then you can dunk some hot dogs in it to warm them up. Chicken tenders from a deli, Lunchables, Uncrushables (frozen peanut butter and jelly sandwiches), lunchmeats, and canned chicken were also popular. But this is supposed to be a picnic, not supplies for a survivalist bunker or a Navy SEAL training program.
One fellow suggested attaching a piece of metal to the boat engine above the exhaust manifold, wrap your dogs in foil and voila! Gas-fume-bilge-flavored franks! Or as this is most often referred to, “muffler meat.” Another website called “Healthy Quick Meals” was full of exactly not that. This site suggested a garlic, oil, and avocado dip mixed with canned salmon. They crowed, “these dips can be safely taken on picnics because they contain no mayonnaise.” F.Y.I., garlic in oil at room temperature (without acid such as lemon juice or vinegar) is a recipe for botulism. So don’t do this.
The reason two coolers are a good idea for boating or beach is one can be used for food, filled with gel ice packs or ice, and this container will only be opened a few times on your outing. The cooler containing water, beer, tea, juice, wine, etc. can be opened as often as you like without fear of spoilage.
What are some ideal foods for these outdoor activities? As long as things are kept cool, fried chicken, substantial sandwiches, and hearty pasta salads are all good. Fresh fruit, cut up or whole, is refreshing and healthy.
Dave Gibbons, an East Hampton resident, author of three cheese books, and columnist for Wine Spectator, had a number of suggestions for durable edibles for a long hike or all-day outdoor excursion. “Any hard, aged cheese is the perfect food: it’s transportable, concentrated nourishment, and along with a piece of whole grain bread, constitutes all a human being needs to complete a healthy balanced meal. After all, the Roman Centurions survived their decades-long picnic with a version of Parmigiano-Reggiano, bread, salami, wine, and water.” Mr. Gibbons recommends a high quality Pecorino Toscano, Gruyere, or a traditional cloth-bound cheddar, such as Montgomery’s or Keen’s or Vermont’s Cabot. “Never skimp on quality, especially if you are eating the cheese alone with bread. A little goes a long way.”
Madeline McLean, founder of Madeline Picnic Co., based in East Hampton, also had some great suggestions. She only uses local, organic produce and Carissa’s Breads for her sandwiches, tartines, and salads. She likes a hearty grain salad with vegetables that can marinate in a Tupperware container. Greek salad is a favorite. Currently popular with her clients is a Tuscan squash salad with zucchini, summer squash, cannellini beans, and toasted walnuts in an olive oil-lemon zest vinaigrette. She also recommends a Corkcicle for wine bottles. Open your wine in advance (how many of us have ventured out on a picnic and forgotten the corkscrew?) and stopper it up with this frozen plastic contraption. Wine stays cold . . . aaaaand accessible. For desserts, instead of messy, sticky, melty items like brownies, she includes madeleines in each picnic basket. They are little French cakes, the perfect size for one or two sweet bites.
Picnics began as an amusement for wealthy folks. They would bring elaborate meals into the forest or parks and spend the day frolicking and entertaining each other. Some sample menus from the 18th and 19th centuries make me glad I live in another era: “fried eggs, broiled sausage, onion and tomato sandwiches, pickles, doughnuts, and coffee.” Another suggestion: “baked bean sandwiches, potato salad, apples, gingersnaps.” How does “fish balls, graham bread with butter, and prune whip” sound? More like visitor’s day at San Quentin if you ask me.
If I know I am going to spend the day on a friend’s boat or hours at the beach, I like to make lots of portable food the night before. The other day I made Ina Garten’s fresh pea soup, which is marvelous hot or cold and contains no dairy. Delia Smith’s oven baked chicken is better and cheaper than store-bought fried chicken, and lastly, I made a chopped salad with watercress, mushrooms, cherry tomatoes, scallions, sweet potatoes, and toasted pecans in a ginger garlic dressing.
By all means, you can just pick up a Villa Combo or fried chicken from Brent’s, but homemade picnic foods are always so much better, healthier, and less expensive. Just remember to bring sunscreen, garbage bags, lots of water, and some wipes. After all, as the 1900 book “Science in the Kitchen” says: “it’s the spirit, not the food, that makes this meal special.” Well, kinda.
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