Specialty Of The House: Yama Q, Bridgehampton

Hisao Shiroyama has paved his path to the new Yama Q restaurant in Bridgehampton with culinary gold. As the sushi chef at the East Hampton restaurant Fresno Place in the early 1980s, Mr. Shiroyama and the restaurant's owner, Dean Golden, introduced sushi to this end of the South Fork.

They built a solid base of fans, who followed them to Sen, a wee bit of a restaurant they opened on Sag Harbor's Main Street that made sushi and other Japanese dishes a mainstay. After a year of partnership there, Mr. Shiroyama bought the restaurant from Mr. Golden.

By the early 1990s, sushi had caught on. People were ordering favorite items by their Japanese name - tekka maki, ebi, unagi, wasabi. The fan list grew.

Two years ago, Mr. Shiroyama, whose culinary interests had expanded over his years at Sen, took on a partner and eventually left the Sag Harbor restaurant. Under new ownership, it continues to be popular. However, he reappeared on the restaurant scene this spring after buying the Simple Pleasures Cafe in Bridgehampton. Those who know his cooking thought Bridgehampton might finally have a sushi restaurant to call its own. Not so.

At Yama Q Mr. Shiroyama has teamed with Barbara Smith, a former chef at the Sag Harbor health food cafe, Provisions, to bring Bridgehampton what they call "health oriented" cuisine. Please note that this is not the same B. Smith of the eponymous restaurant in Manhattan.

Not strictly health food, not strictly Japanese, the Yama Q menu contains a little of what each chef is known for and a cornucopia of items inspired by the lightest and most healthful of cuisines.

The dishes share characteristics of Japanese, Indian, and African food and the selections change daily.

The name Yama Q is derived from the "Yama" in Mr. Shiroyama's name and the Japanese character for his first name, Hisao. He began cooking in his native Japan while at college studying religious philosophy. His sushi apprenticeship was in a Japanese restaurant in Connecticut.

Now, well settled on the East End, he brings much of his background to bear on his restaurant in subtle, but noticeable ways. In his kitchen he is an open and willing host, taking time out from preparing for a busy Fourth of July weekend to talk about his hopes for the new restaurant.

Mr. Shiroyama said that for many people choices about food are also choices about broader issues.

"A lot of people are looking for natural foods; they're concerned with the environment, with eating organically and without artificial flavors or chemical preservatives." Not everything served is wholely organic, but the chefs hope their own "honest" approach will fit these concerns.

At Yama Q diners can find fish, chicken, and vegetarian dishes. A classic Japanese accompaniment like miso soup shares space on the menu with roasted beet salad, grilled tuna, and tomato chutney.

Mr. Shiroyama lives in Sag Harbor with his family. Ms. Smith also lives there. Both hope to serve a year-round crowd in addition to summer diners.

Hisao Shiroyama's Soy Lime Barbecue Marinade

(Enough to Marinate Fish, Vegetables, or Chicken for Four)

Ingredients:

8 oz. low sodium soy sauce,

2 oz. lemon or lime juice

2 tsp. ground garlic

2 tsp. ground ginger

2 oz. melted butter or sesame oil

2 oz. rice vinegar or other white wine vinegar

Method:

This is a light, simple sauce that can be modified to suit individual tastes. It works well as a marinade for tuna and other fish and is also nice with chicken, and a variety of vegetables. Mr. Shiroyama also suggests skewers of tuna and vegetables.

Whisk ingredients together in a bowl and marinate chosen meat or vegetables for about 10 minutes.

While grilling, brush fish, chicken, or skewers with excess marinade.