The rules of purchase for steamers are the same as for hard clams: no broken shells and only those which are closed or which close when tapped should be selected. Steamers are soft-shelled clams which flourish from Virginia to New England.
They are eaten steamed or fried. Water, beer, or white wine are the usual steaming media. If you can sacrifice the butter dip, they are a low-cal, high-energy food.
Regardless of where you obtain your steamers, a well-seasoned broth may be a nice change.
Spicy Steamers
4 quarts soft-shelled clams
2 cups water
2 stalks celery, including the leaves
1 bay leaf
1/2 to 1 tsp. crushed red pepper (depending on your penchant for fiery food)
6 Tbsp. butter, melted and mixed with 1 tsp. lemon juice
Rinse clams well to remove any muck or sand from the shells. Discard any broken or open ones which refuse to close. Place water, celery, bay leaf, and pepper in bottom of a kettle or steamer and bring to a boil. Add clams, cover tightly and steam about 15 minutes, or until clams open.
Turn off heat. Remove clams to individual plates or bowls and cover with plates or napkins to keep warm. Strain broth into cups. Serve clams with broth and lemon-butter for dunking. When clams have been consumed, any remaining lemon-butter may be added to broth to enrich it for drinking (quickly reheating it at this point would be a considerate gesture). Serves four.