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In Season: Stew Into Soup, 1976

Thu, 01/08/1976 - 11:34

There are two ways in which a pound and a half of boneless beef stew can be made to serve eight. If the meat is really terrible, it might feed even more than eight (unless the diners are too hungry to care). On the other hand, excellent boneless beef, cut into small cubes and simmered in a rich, spicy "Gulyassuppe" will satisfy eight. Simply provide bread, salad, and dessert to round out the meal.

Gulyasuppe is actually a means of stretching some leftover stew. The Austrians thin down the stew and it becomes soup. There is no reason why the soup can't be the beginning instead of the end of the recipe.

Two Parts

The recipe is given in two parts. First, the ragout or "gulyas." You might want to serve it as it is and skip the soup version altogether. Or, double the recipe, serve the gulyas one day and turn the rest into soup for another, the classic method.

Again, let me emphasize the importance of using superb beef. Rump or prime chuck is called for, rather than pre-packaged, anonymous "stew meat." Just as it is with steaks and roasts, the quality of the meat used will affect the end result in stew. To economize, use less meat and more vegetables or make meatballs altogether, rather than lavishing culinary effort on meat of indifferent quality. Saving without sacrifice.

Ragout of Beef

2 Tbsp. cooking oil
1 1/2 lbs. beef rump, well trimmed and cut into small cubes (about 3/4 inch square)
1 cup finely chopped onion
1/2 cup finely chopped celery
1/2 cup finely chopped carrot
3 cloves garlic, minced
1 cup dry red wine
1 cup beef stock or bouillon
1 1/2 Tbsp. tomato paste
1 1/2 tsp. salt
Freshly ground black pepper
1 tsp. oregano
1/2 tsp. thyme
1 tsp. paprika
1 bay leaf

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Heat oil in a three-quart casserole. Add beef and brown over high heat (you may have to do this in several shifts). Remove meat and reserve. Lower heat, add onion, celery, and carrot, and sauté until beginning to brown.

Stir in garlic. Return beef to casserole. Add remaining ingredients (pepper to taste). Bring to a simmer, cover, and bake in a preheated oven for one hour. Remove bay leaf. Taste for seasoning. If too much of the sauce has evaporated, you may add a little water or stock. Serve with noodles, potatoes, or dumplings. Serves four.

Now, the same recipe can be extended to serve eight by making it into "Gulyassuppe," a hearty soup, unquestionably of main course character.

Gulyassuppe

1 recipe Ragout of Beef (above)
1 1/2 lbs. "new potatoes"
Salt and pepper
4 cups water
1 Tbsp. tomato paste
1 tsp. butter
2 tsp. flour
Pinch red pepper flakes
1 Tbsp. chopped parsley
Sour cream (optional)

While ragout is baking, peel and quarter potatoes. Cover them with cold, salted water, bring to a boil and simmer for 10 to 15 minutes, or until just tender. Do not overcook. Drain and cut them into somewhat smaller pieces. Season with salt and pepper, and reserve.

After the ragout has baked for the required hour, remove it to the top of the stove. Add the four cups water, the potatoes, and tomato paste. Simmer for 10 minutes. Taste for seasoning. With the fingertips, work the butter and flour together and add it gradually to the soup. Stir and simmer for another 10 minutes, or until the soup thickens somewhat. Sprinkle with pepper flakes and parsley and serve, with sour cream on the side if you wish. Serves eight.

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