Isn't it handy that the first vegetables of spring begin with the letter A! Artichokes and asparagus. They affirm the new season.
Artichokes, ancient, wild, Mediterranean thistles, tamed and cultivated, require a commitment on the part of the diner. You may leave your peas or string beans on the plate but you cannot ignore the stunning presence of an artichoke.
Artichokes are never served casually, the vegetable of the day. They are more likely to be le plat du jour, presented on demand to those who pleasure in them.
Determination
It takes the determination of a lobster lover to ferret out every morsel of flesh from every leaf and then to remove the fuzz and prickles before attaining the prize, the tender heart (or bottom). I have had a nightmare about a dinner of artichokes and hard-shelled crabs, the meal that cannot be finished, a classic dream of frustration like the endless staircase.
Artichokes come in all sizes, from one-inch babies to imposing softball-sized monsters. The following recipe calls for very large ones although smaller ones may be used. Be sure the artichokes you buy are tightly closed and green, streaked perhaps with purple but not blemished with brown.
For the classic boiled artichoke, follow the first part of the recipe. You may fill it with other combinations than the one I suggest.
Aegean Baked Stuffed Artichokes
4 large artichokes
A slice of lemon
3 Tbsp. pignolias (pine nuts)
1 cup finely chopped onion
1 large clove garlic, minced
1 1/2 lbs. ground beef
1 Tbsp. minced fresh dill
1 tsp. oregano
1/2 tsp. ground cumin
1 1/2 tsp. salt
Freshly ground black pepper
1/4 cup sweet vermouth
3 Tbsp. tomato paste
1/4 cup grated parmesan cheese
3 Tbsp. butter
3 Tbsp. flour
1 1/2 cups milk
Pinch of nutmeg
Select a large kettle or pot which will hold the artichokes in a single layer. Half fill it with salted water and set it over high heat to boil. Meanwhile, prepare the artichokes. Rinse them well (there may be creatures lurking among the leaves).
Slice the stem off flush with the base so the artichokes stand level. Rub the cut area with lemon. Slice off the top inch of the artichokes and rub this area with lemon. Using kitchen shears, snip off the top half-inch of each leaf, to remove the prickly tip.
Place the artichokes, base side down in the boiling water, lower heat to the simmer and weight the tops of the artichokes with a dish, pot lid or some other object which will fit into the pot and keep the artichokes submerged.
Simmer the artichokes for about 30 minutes, or until the base can be easily pierced with a knife point. Remove the artichokes from the water and allow them to drain upside down.
While the artichokes are cooking prepare the filling and sauce. Heat the olive oil in a large skillet. Add the onion and saute until tender. Add the garlic and pignolias and saute for another minute or so. Stir in the meat, breaking it up with a fork. Cook it, stirring to break up the pieces, until it has lost its color.
Add the dill, oregano, cumin, one teaspoon of the salt and a generous grinding of pepper. Stir in the vermouth and tomato paste and cook for five minutes. Remove from heat, stir in three tablespoons of the cheese, and set aside.
For the sauce, melt the butter in a small saucepan. Stir in the flour and cook for several minutes. Add the milk gradually, stirring constantly with a whisk, and continue to cook over medium heat until the sauce is thick and smooth. Add 1/2 teaspoon salt and the pinch of nutmeg. Cover until ready to use.
After the artichokes have drained and cooled somewhat, set them upright and gently spread the leaves away from the center. Using a tablespoon, scoop out the center cluster of leaves and scrape out all of the hairy "choke" beneath them. Make sure you have removed all the choke but try not to scrape away any of the succulent fleshy bottom. (If you are forced to remove any of the tender leaves which surround the very center, save them to use in a salad.) Each artichoke should have a fairly large center cavity now.
Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Brush the outside of the artichokes with olive oil. Arrange them in a well-oiled baking dish. Spoon a little of the sauce into the center of each artichoke. Then fill each artichoke almost to the top with the meat mixture.
Spoon the rest of the sauce over the meat in each artichoke and sprinkle each with the remaining cheese. Bake in the upper third of the oven for about 50 minutes, or until the topping is lightly browned. Serves four (main course servings).
NOTE: This recipe may be used to fill six or even eight smaller artichokes. It may also be used to fill green peppers, eggplant halves, zucchini, or tomatoes. Regardless of the vegetable you decide to fill, the recipe may be prepared in advance, to be baked just before serving. It may also be completely cooked and held at room temperature to be reheated before serving or served at room temperature.
