There is no better fish to exemplify maritime territoriality than the cod, sought after and fought over by fleets of many nations. Sacred cod.
Codfish has changed for me, in much the same manner as lamb. That statement is not as far-fetched as it sounds. The well-done roast lamb and lamb chops that I suffered as a child (I only liked the crisp parts of the chops along the rib), at their worst served with mint jelly, have become the succulently juicy, pink medium rare treasures I now adore.
Paralleling this experience, codfish, overcooked, grainy, stringy and edible only in fish cakes, has been rediscovered as a silken, moist richness when steamed or poached in a trice. Another Cinderella.
Steaks
The following calls for steaming cod steaks — thick, cross-cut slices — and then blanketing them with a velvet pale gold egg and lemon sauce and adding a feathery herb garnish. Cod is not an absolute essential for this preparation; other fish steaks such as halibut, striped bass, fluke or even salmon would do nicely. Like the great trawlers, process whatever lands in the net.
Fish Steaks in Egg and Lemon Sauce
1 large onion, sliced
1 lemon, sliced
2 large sprigs fennel or dill
1/3 cup chopped fresh fennel (or 1/2 teaspoon fennel seeds)
1 bay leaf
1 tsp. salt
6 peppercorns
2 cups water
1 1/2 lbs. codfish steaks, about 3/4 inch thick
3 eggs
2 tsp. cornstarch
Juice of 2 lemons
Spread the onion, lemon, one sprig of the fennel or dill, the chopped fennel or fennel seeds, the bay leaf, 1/2 teaspoon of the salt and the peppercorns in a casserole. Pour in the water, bring to a boil and cook for five minutes. Place the fish steaks in the casserole, over the onion and lemon, cover and cook until the fish just turns opaque, seven to eight minutes. (If you are using salmon, it may take slightly longer.)
Remove the fish to a platter, cover with a clean towel wrung out in hot water and keep warm. Strain the fish stock into a small saucepan and bring to a boil. (There should be about one cup of stock—add water to make up the difference if necessary.)
Beat the eggs lightly. Mix the cornstarch and lemon juice and add to the eggs, along with 1/2 teaspoon of salt. Add any liquid that has accumulated around the fish to the saucepan. Slowly add the boiling stock to the egg and lemon mixture, stirring constantly, until the sauce is thick and smooth. Pour over the fish, garnish with remaining sprig of fennel or dill, and serve at once. Serves 2-3.
