The time of year for lighter food is rapidly approaching. Quick sautés because you don't want to spend hours in the kitchen, lemony flavors to entice warm weather appetites, and bright green garnishes for visual allure are what dinner need most. Food like this offers an attractive alternative to the inevitable barbecue grill or platter of cold poached fish.
The following recipe relies on veal scallopini. It is a costly ingredient that has been made to go a long way thanks to a bed of fresh young spinach and a sauce that is both rich and piquant, based on the Greek avgolemono technique of lemon juice thickened with egg.
The veal is not absolutely necessary. Chicken cutlets made from boneless chicken breast pounded thin, or even filet of sole, can be substituted. That will bring the price down without making serious inroads on the delectable results. Once the ingredients have been assembled, the dish will require 15 minutes at the most to prepare. It is a last-minute quickie with absolutely no staying or reheating power, so plan accordingly.
Scallopini With Spinach and Lemon
3/4 lb. veal scallopini (see note)
2 Tbsp. flour
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
4 Tbsp. butter
2 Tbsp. cooking oil
1 large clove garlic, minced
1/2 lb. fresh spinach, well-rinsed but not dried, stems removed, leaves coarsely chopped
2 scallions, chopped
1 Tbsp. minced fresh dill
Juice and grated rind of 1 lemon
3 Tbsp. chicken broth (see note)
3 egg yolks
You should have either six medium or four large scallopini. If they are medium-sized, cut each one in half; large ones should be cut in thirds, so you have twelve pieces of veal, each about one and a half by three inches. Dry the veal. Season the flour with salt and pepper and dust the veal scallopini with the seasoned flour.
Melt the butter with the oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add the veal and brown it lightly, about two minutes on each side (this may require two shifts in the pan). Place the veal on a heat-proof dish in a warm oven. Add the garlic to the skillet. When it is just beginning to brown, add the spinach, half the scallions and dill and the lemon rind. Cook over high heat, stirring, until the spinach has wilted. Season with salt and pepper.
Remove the spinach from the pan, draining it very well, and spread it on a serving platter. Add the chicken broth to the spinach liquid in the pan and shut off the heat. Beat the egg yolks and lemon juice together and pour into the skillet.
Return the veal to the skillet and toss in the sauce over VERY LOW HEAT just until the sauce has thickened to the consistency of heavy cream. It takes the minimum of heat and cooking to accomplish this — if the sauce comes to a simmer it will curdle. Arrange the veal on the spinach, pour the sauce over it and dust with remaining dill and scallions and serve at once, with rice. Serves four.
NOTE: 1. Instead of veal, you may use boneless chicken scalloppini or even sole filets in this dish. If you use the fish, substitute a light fish stock for the chicken broth. 2. This dish is virtually impossible to reheat. However, preparation will take no more than 15 minutes.
