Luscious, ripe strawberries may herald summer but, somehow, they can’t match the raspberries that follow for sybaritic luxury. Perhaps it’s the price, raspberries always having been the dearer of the two (except when they happen to be abundant in the wild). I’d rather think it has more to do with the intense perfume of the ripe fruit and its rich concentration of bright flavor.
Whatever your source of raspberries (farm stands, Gristede’s, your back yard or picking them at Wickham’s Farm in Cutchogue), try them in the following dessert, a heavenly confection that will transport dinner guests to a state of utterly dazed wonderment. Such rewards come after a little effort exerted well in advance.
Raspberry Tortoni
3/4 cup sugar
1/4 cup water
3 egg whites, at room temperature
7 tablespoons framboise (See Note)
2 cups well-chilled heavy cream
3 pints fresh raspberries
Superfine sugar
Mint sprigs for garnish
Line the bottom and long sides of a six cup metal loaf pan (preferably aluminum) with waxed paper, allowing enough of the paper to extend beyond the pan to cover the top. Place pan in the freezer.
Mix sugar and water in a small saucepan, bring to a boil and cook until the mixture registers 237 to 239 degrees on a candy thermometer (soft ball stage). While the sugar is cooking, beat the egg whites until soft peaks form (using a standing electric mixer rather than a hand-held one or a whisk is the most efficient method — otherwise you may need a helper).
Now slowly drizzle the hot sugar syrup into the egg whites, beating constantly. Continue beating for at least five minutes, until the meringue (this is called Italian meringue) is stiff and glossy. Add three tablespoons framboise, one tablespoon at a time, beating for 30 seconds after each addition. Refrigerate this mixture.
Whip the cream until soft peaks form, add one tablespoon framboise and beat until stiff. Fold the whipped cream into the meringue, spread in prepared pan, cover top with waxed paper and freeze at least six hours. Tortoni may be prepared up to several days in advance and kept in freezer.
Puree one pint of the raspberries. Strain and sweeten to taste (but do not oversweeten) with superfine sugar. Add one-and-a-half tablespoons framboise. Refrigerate. Sweeten remaining whole berries with superfine sugar and sprinkle with one-and-one-half tablespoons framboise. Refrigerate. Refrigerate an oblong or oval serving platter that is quite a bit larger than the mold to allow for berries and sauce and also refrigerate the dessert plates you plan to use.
Just before serving, loosen the unwaxed-papered sides of the mold with a knife. Lift off the paper covering the top and unmold tortoni on serving platter. Peel off waxed paper. Pour the raspberry puree around but not over the tortoni. Spoon some of the whole raspberries on top of the tortoni and spread the rest around it in the puree. Decorate with mint sprigs and serve at once.
Serves 12 to 16.
Note: Use framboise eau de vie, a clear raspberry spirit. If unavailable, substitute half white rum and half kirsch but the results will not be quite as divine.
