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Long Island Larder: Pumpkin Mousse

Thu, 12/24/1987 - 10:01
The East Hampton Star Archive

Although this recipe appeared in a Larder column several years ago, I heard that several people had loved it but lost it, so here it is again. Choose a plain or fancy fluted mold of two-quart capacity (or a bundt cake pan). Oil it lightly and chill it before you start. Another advantage of this dessert is that it can, and should be, made at least 24 hours in advance — even two days is fine. The flavor and firmness develop and the mousse is easier to unmold after this time. Unmolded before dinner, covered with plastic wrap, and replaced in the refrigerator, this is a fairly carefree finale to dinner. Serve with clouds of real whipped cream only barely sweetened.

Serves 12.

1 envelope unflavored gelatin
1/4 cup cold water
4 eggs, separated
1/2 cup heavy cream
1 lb. can cooked pumpkin puree OR equivalent fresh puree, well drained
1 cup brown sugar, NOT packed
1/2 tsp. each: cinnamon, nutmeg, ginger
Pinch of clove
1/2 cup white sugar
1 cup heavy cream, whipped (for garnish)
1 Tbsp. bourbon
1/4 cup black walnuts, chopped (for garnish)

Sprinkle gelatin over the cold water to soften. In the top of a double boiler or a very heavy non-aluminum sauce? pan, beat the egg yolks light, then beat in the cream, milk, and half the pumpkin. Beat in the brown sugar and spices, then cook, stirring over low heat or in the double boiler until the mixture becomes a thick custard. Cool to tepid; otherwise the hot custard will collapse the egg whites to be added. To speed this, set the pumpkin custard pan into an underpan of ice water and stir until the custard is cool, changing the water several times.

Beat the egg whites to a stiff meringue, adding the white sugar last. Add bourbon. Fold the meringue into the custard mixture with a rubber spatula using an up and over motion to avoid breaking down the air cells. Scrape the mousse gently into the chilled, oiled mold, cover it tightly with plastic wrap, and tuck it away in the refrigerator for a day or two.

Unmold the dessert at least half an hour before serving time, cover with plastic, and allow to set in the refrigerator. Lightly oil the plate before inverting the mousse on it so that you can move it around if it doesn’t land directly in the center. Getting the mousse out of the mold is the only tricky part of this recipe: lower it into very warm water for a few seconds, place the serving plate on top, then invert and give the mold a sharp downward jerk. This step can be re? peated but don't make the water too hot or the mousse will lose its definition. Sprinkle the mousse with nuts and decorate with whipped cream just before serving.

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