Looking for some Valentine’s Day inspiration the other day, I ventured into one of those mega-blocklong-bookstores. Surely there will be a lovely display of Rumi’s love poems, Shakespeare’s sonnets, or perhaps some bodice-ripper novels. Anais Nin?
More important, I was hoping to find cookbooks with sexy, silky desserts. Alas, I had to ask the elderly gent at the superduper information booth where I could find some romance-related reading.
“Valentine’s Day isn’t like it used to be when you and I were 16,” he said, winking at me lasciviously and then pointing me in the right direction.
As I’m thinking, “Dude, you’ve got at least 30 years on me,” my eyes landed on the display. Indeed, it looked like something assembled by Paris Hilton and Kim Kardashian for a swinging night in Las Vegas.
“Sex Scratchers” lottery tickets, erotic massage kits, hot pink boxes of hideous, cheap chocolates, and there in the midst of it, the book I should have bought years ago, “He’s Just Not That Into You.” Oh, dear!
But there’s a new man on the horizon, and I can’t wait to cook a romantic meal for him. When it comes to aphrodisiacal foods, I’m inclined to believe the teachings of M.F.K. Fisher, the late, great food writer and a woman who understood the potential sensuality of every meal. She wrote: “When I write of hunger, I am really writing about love and the hunger for it, and warmth and the love of it and it is all one.”
Ms. Fisher’s advice was to keep it light, colorful, simple, and fresh. Oysters and a fine Champagne (Billecart-Salmon Brut Rosé, please, sir!) A dainty piece of sole or flounder. Perhaps a salad of arugula with pine nuts, both considered aphrodisiacs.
And to clobber my new guy over the head with my intentions, a bright, white heart-shaped coeur a la creme drizzled with a brilliant pink, tart raspberry coulis. And, of course, some very dark chocolate with a drop of antique cognac to end (or begin) the night.
Some people’s idea of a romantic meal is one filled with rich, expensive, elaborate, and decadent ingredients. I love steak with béarnaise sauce, a slice of foie gras, and potatoes gratin as much as the next gourmand, but it has no place on a Valentine’s Day menu. Why? Because your stomach will be expending all of its energy trying to digest, which does not leave much for the romantic portion of your evening.
The name Valentine comes from the Latin word “valor,” meaning worthy. Valentine’s Day became associated with romantic love thanks to Geoffrey Chaucer and his cronies of 14th-century England. Before this, it was a feast day to honor one of many Saint Valentines.
The Russian Orthodox Church has several, the Catholic Church lists seven, including a martyr, a couple of priests, a bishop, and some hermits. Go figure. The most likely (or “worthy”) was Valentine of Rome, a priest and doctor known for treating all of his patients whether they could pay him or not.
In the Islamic world “Sepandarmazgan” is secretly celebrated by young boys and girls with an exchange of gifts on Feb. 17. “Giri-choko,” meaning “obligation-chocolate,” is popular in Korea and Japan. In these Asian countries, it is the gals who give chocolate on Valentine’s Day, and the men are expected to reciprocate a month later on March 14, called “White Day.”
According to the greeting card industry, a billion cards are circulated around the world on this day, and 85 percent of them are purchased by women.
If you have children, let them get in on the act this weekend by making heart-shaped cookies or heart-shaped cornmeal pancakes.
The theme and meaning of love varies through time and different cultures. Some, such as the Sufis, view it as redemptive. Others like the notion of unrequited, chivalrous love, as in the stories of the knights and ladies of medieval times.
As for me, I prefer the playful notion of love demonstrated by the Hindu god Krishna who frolicked mightily with the gopi-girls, the women of Braj who were ecstatically devoted to him.
Whatever your views, enjoy the day, and cook up something sexy, healthy, and romantic.
Coeurs a la Creme
This is such an easy, do-ahead dessert, but you will need some cheesecloth and the classic ceramic coeur a la creme molds. You can borrow mine (I’ll be making Grand Marnier soufflés!), or buy some at Williams-Sonoma or the Loaves and Fishes Cookshop.
Also feel free to try variations on the flavor of the coeur a la creme. Cinnamon or kirsch can be substituted for the vanilla, and the topping could be puréed peaches (frozen this time of year), blueberries, mangoes, poached figs, or pineapple.
Serves four.
4 oz. cream cheese, softened
1/3 cup confectioners’ sugar
1 tsp. vanilla
1/2 cup heavy cream, very cold
Cream first three ingredients until soft and well blended. Do not use a food processor, as this will make it gummy.
Whip the cream to the Chantilly stage, until soft peaks form, not stiff. Fold this into cream cheese mixture. Line four small or one large heart-shaped mold with dampened cheesecloth. Fill the mold, covering with any overhanging cheesecloth. Place on tray to catch whey, and refrigerate for 2 to 24 hours before unmolding.
Raspberry Coulis
2 cups fresh or frozen raspberries
Sugar to taste (I use about 1/2 cup)
1 Tbsp. lemon juice
Purée the fresh raspberries with sugar and lemon juice. Taste for sweetness and adjust to your liking. I confess that in a pinch, I have used slightly defrosted raspberry sorbet as a sauce and it’s pretty darned good!
Serves four.
James Beard’s Cornmeal Pancakes
1 cup cornmeal
1/2 cup flour
1/2 tsp. salt
2 eggs
11/2 cups buttermilk
1 tsp. baking soda
3 Tbsp. butter, melted
Sift together the first three dry ingredients. Beat eggs and add to one cup of the buttermilk. Add this to dry ingredients. Dissolve baking soda in remaining 1/2 cup buttermilk and add this to batter. Do not overbeat. Stir in melted butter.
If you have small heart-shaped cookie cutters, put them in a well-greased frying pan over moderate heat. Spoon a bit of batter into each mold and cook as you would regular pancakes. Serve with warm maple syrup and fresh blueberries.
The Best Pecan Sandies, Ever
The following recipe is from one of my pastry chef idols, Claudia Fleming, now making her ethereal desserts at the North Fork Table in Southold. Cut these into little itty-bitty heart shapes so you can pop a whole one in your mouth!
Makes about 24 small cookies.
1 cup pecans
2 cups flour
1 cup, (two sticks) butter, softened
2/3 cup confectioners’ sugar
2 tsp. vanilla
1 tsp. salt
1/2 tsp. baking powder
2 Tbsp. turbinado sugar
Toast pecans in 350-degree oven for about 13 minutes, as you want them nice and brown and toasty smelling. Cool.
In food processor grind nuts with one-quarter cup of the flour. Set aside. Using electric mixer, cream butter and confectioners’ sugar until creamy and smooth, about two minutes. Add vanilla and beat well. Sift remaining flour with baking powder and salt. Add to butter mixture, mix until blended. Add nut mixture and combine.
Form dough into round disc, wrap in plastic and chill for a few hours. Roll dough between two sheets of wax paper to about 3/16-inch thick, cut into desired shapes, sprinkle with turbinado sugar, and bake in 325-degree oven for about 10 minutes until a nice golden brown.
