Rosie's Arrives in Amagansett

Many years ago a longtime food photographer for The New York Times, Vogue, and Harper’s Bazaar was overheard saying to a friend in Amagansett, “There is no food on Long Island.”

Even if it was true then — and we know it wasn’t — now there seem to be new cafes and restaurants popping up everywhere you turn, and they are often intermeshed with the movement in local, sustainable farming that has grown up here. New in Amagansett are not only Coche Comedor and Morty’s Oyster Stand, coming soon to the former Cyril’s on Napeague, but Rosie’s: A Love of Fare, which just opened on Saturday morning.

Frank Trentacoste, who owns and farms Bhumi Farms, and Christina Isaly, who worked in fashion and for her family real estate business, closed the deal for the space only on March 15. The restaurant is named after Ms. Isaly’s mother, who died last July.

The business partners hired two co-chefs: Leo Mamaril, who worked at Stone Barns with Dan Barber for three years, and Josh Cohen, the former sous chef at Flower Shop in Manhattan and most recently, Gem.

Mr. Trentacoste is vegetarian; Ms. Isaly is an omnivore, and Rosie’s menu combines a few meat dishes with “elevated” vegetables. The meat comes from Happy Valley, north of New York City, where one cow at a time is slaughtered, but only if there is a use for every part of it. Some of the ingredients come from Mr. Trentacoste’s farm, and there are small things the chefs add that put the food on a different level, he said. There is a B.L.E., maple glaze bacon, butter lettuce, tomato jam, and fried egg. The Blue Collard is braised greens, cheddar, and crispy shallots.

The mussels with cider, tomato marmalade, bacon, and served on grilled sourdough bread, are pretty to look at, and the sauce is yummy.

“Everything starts with a seed and continues on to be produce,” said Mr. Trentacoste. “Then it is handed over to the chefs, whose mental motion begins, and it turns to physical motion. Presenting the vegetable to the consumer brings the local ecosystem full circle.”

Frampton Co. of Bridgehampton and Manhattan designed the interior, guided by Ms. Isaly. It has muted blue-gray walls and deep blue tiles over an arch that separates a dining alcove for up to eight from the main dining room. The alcove is the only table that can be reserved in advance. 

The chefs, owners, designers, farmers, fishers, and even the P.R. people are all friends of one or the other, and the result, Mr. Trentacoste said, is that Rosie’s feels like a family instead of a business. 

The restaurant opens at 7 a.m. For breakfast, egg dishes, pastries, and chia pods are available for customers to order at the counter and take to their tables. From 11 a.m. to 3 p.m., pasta dishes, salads, and sandwiches are added. Mr. Trantacoste called it “blunch,” and explained that by eliminating table service, it puts control in the customer’s hands. 

The “après beach” service runs from 4 to 10, with small shared plates and table service, although customers also can have a main course alongside the small appetizers.

Until June 23, Rosie’s will be closed on Tuesday and Wednesday.