Many, many times have I written about holiday baking, homemade food gifts, cookies, cakes, and goodies galore. I have probably shared every single favorite recipe, perhaps even more than once. What is left to say when the next holiday season rolls around? Plenty!
There are reflections on the past this time of year, thoughts and ruminations on how different cultures celebrate their holidays, and, as always, lots of baking.
If you are going to bake cookies, cakes, or breads as gifts, it's important to consider shelf life and travel distance. Perishable dainties are fine for walking to your neighbors or serving at home. Sturdier baked goods are better for shipping to far away family and friends.
Every year Google Trends shares data on the most searched Christmas cookie recipes state by state. It's a pity the search wasn't expended to include all holidays, but the results are fascinating nonetheless. The East Coast states showed more interest in internationally diverse cookies, ginger bread and sugar cookies were overall very popular, and the Southern states really like their peanut butter blossoms. Although chocolate chip cookies are probably America's favorite, they're not considered holiday cookies, so very few searches appeared for those. Year to year, the searches also reflect fad diets and eating trends. For instance, a few years ago, keto cookies and gluten-free Christmas cookies were most searched in four states, now these have gone the way of the dodo.
A holiday tradition that is popular in some parts is the cookie exchange, also known as cookie swap and cookie trade. The general idea is that participants bake three to four dozen of their best cookies, take them to the exchange (along with a cookie tin), and everyone goes home with a wonderful variety of cookies for the holiday season. There are rules, of course. No chocolate chip cookies, no super gooey cookies (they don't last), and no supermarket cookies, unless you accidentally burnt your batch. Information about the history of cookie exchanges varies wildly. Some say they originated during World War I, some say they were a Dutch tradition introduced around 1703 in New Amsterdam, a.k.a. New York. George Washington would have cookie parties at the White House, but there is no indication he was swapping shortbread with Admiral Lord Richard Howe and his bro Major General William Howe.
Cooks and chefs often discuss what dishes would be part of their "last supper." Cooks and chefs are often asked by others "what is your fantasy dinner party guest list?" My question to myself these days is "Who would be my fantasy cookie exchange pals?" I would begin with Richard Sax, Nancy Silverton, and Rose Levy Beranbaum for Hanukkah baking help, even though I can make wicked good hamantaschen and rugelach myself. Mr. Sax would be there because his book "Classic Home Desserts" is foolproof, fun, and full of historical tidbits in the margins. Ms. Silverton because she is an icon and one of her book titles begins "The Cookie That Changed My Life." Ms. Beranbaum because she once said "bakers are born, not made. We are exacting people who delight in submitting ourselves to rules and formulas if it means achieving repeatable perfection." Brilliant.
Locally, I would humbly hope that Kathleen King of Kathleen's Cookies and later Tate's Cookies would show up and tell her incredible life story. I'd also be thrilled if Susan Spungen appeared with some of the crazy beautiful abstract art cookies she created for The New York Times in December 2019. She is a food stylist, recipe developer, and all around cool chick. I would also like to invite Emily Meggett of Edisto Island, who was a community leader, chef, and author of "Gullah-Geechee Home Cooking," published when she was 89 years old. She could teach us all about the travels of benne (sesame) seeds from Africa to the Low Country, cooking on plantations while raising 10 children, perfecting airy biscuits, and her philosophy that "if that side door is open, there is food in this kitchen. At this house there are no guests, just friends and family."
Food for thought: Dec. 22 is National Cookie Exchange Day. Let's share with everyone.
Shortbread
This recipe is a variation on Kathleen King's shortbread recipe. My mother's best friend, Fanny, would cut the recipe in half and bake it a little longer so that it was thin and crisp. This is the kind of recipe that travels and keeps well.
3 cups flour
3/4 cup granulated sugar
1 1/2 cups cold salted butter cut into small pieces
Preheat oven to 325.
Mix flour and sugar. Add butter and mix with hands. Press into two 9-by-11-inch pans. Bake half an hour to 45 minutes until golden. Cut into squares while still warm.
Charleston's Famous Benne Wafers
This recipe came from a package of benne seeds (sesame) from Charleston Specialty Foods.
Makes approximately six dozen.
1/2 cup benne seeds, toasted
3/4 cup butter softened
1 large egg, beaten
1 1/2 cup flour
1/2 tsp. baking powder
1 tsp. vanilla
1 cup light brown sugar, packed
Preheat oven to 325.
Cream butter and sugar. Blend in egg and vanilla, then add dry ingredients. Drop batter by half teaspoons onto a cookie sheet lined with parchment paper. (Alternatively, I roll dough into small logs, chill, then slice and bake. Easier and faster.)
Allow space to spread. Bake 10 minutes. Allow to cool. Store in air-tight container.
Molasses Cookies
This is one of my favorite "Silver Palate Cookbook" recipes. It is easy as can be. You can bake the cookies for less time for a chewy texture, or longer for a crisper cookie.
Makes approximately two dozen large flat cookies.
12 Tbsp. butter
1 cup granulated sugar
1/4 cup molasses
1 egg
1 3/4 cup flour
1/2 tsp. ground cloves
1/2 tsp. ginger
1 tsp. cinnamon
1/2 tsp. salt
1/2 tsp. baking soda
Preheat oven to 350.
Melt butter, add sugar and molasses, mix thoroughly. Lightly beat egg and add to butter mixture. Blend well.
Sift flour with spices, salt, and baking soda, and add to first mixture. Mix. Batter will be wet.
Lay a sheet of foil, parchment paper, or silicone pads on cookie sheet. Drop tablespoons of cookie batter onto the sheet, leaving three inches between the cookies. They will spread during cooking.
Bake until cookies start to darken, eight to 10 minutes. (I find that 10 to 15 minutes is better.)
Remove from oven while still soft. Let cool on foil (or parchment, etc.)
