It may also feel like we’ve already reached the end of the harvest season, yet there are plenty of cold-tolerant vegetables being grown nearby to fill the dinner plate. If you say “winter vegetables” and think of bland and pallid winter squash, think again.
Late fall and winter vegetables are full of flavor, color, and culinary possibility.
Layton Guenther is the director of Quail Hill Farm in Amagansett, overseeing 500 different types of plants every year — and enjoying cooking with them, too. Quail Hill offers community-supported agriculture shares, in addition to growing produce for a few South Fork restaurants and food pantries. Its fields along Town Lane and Deep Lane are still filled in November and December with cold-tolerant plants for C.S.A. boxes. Given the spectrum of produce, it is an idyllic place to ask, “What’s to eat?” In short, a lot.
Each season, Quail Hill strives to grow the usual familiar offerings, as well as a few of the unusual ones, Guenther says. The last few weeks of the summer C.S.A. share wind down in October; the C.S.A. winter share begins just before Thanksgiving.
Looking out over the patchwork of rows underscores how rich and colorful the cold-weather crops can be, the nuanced shades of deep-green kale playing against blue-hued cabbage with purple veining. The Barbie-pink stalks of the vibrant Swiss chard would fit right in at a candy shop, and add a new twist to eating all the colors of the rainbow in your diet. These greens (and pinks) are high in vitamins C and B, as well as iron, potassium, and calcium.
One unexpected vegetable halfway down one of the fields is kohlrabi. The deep blue-purple orbs hover above the soil on long thin roots and look positively ethereal in the bright fall light. The blue-purple Kohlrabi tastes mild yet bright, similar to the more common pale-green kohlrabi varieties. Guenther says the flavor is often described as “broccoli-flavored apple.” That’s oddly appropriate, though it is possibly selling the vegetable short. Chop it into matchsticks or grate it into a salad, offers Guenther. Or pickle it; it can keep in the refrigerator for a couple of weeks.
Guenther enthusiastically describes how the spicy mustard greens pair with Asian or Thai dishes. The sweet potatoes and squash easily complement curries. Cold-tolerant greens such as escarole work well in bean soups.
Roasting is an easy and obvious option for an assortment of fall vegetables. Low heat breaks down the sugars, while filling the house with warmth. Tomatoes, carrots, leeks, onions, and even fennel work roasted.
While on the subject of roasting, let’s talk squash. Delicata and similar winter squash such as jester, carnival, and honeynut have gained in popularity, due in part to their manageable size, thin skin, and nutty flavor. Whereas the hefty size of a butternut squash is a commitment and requires a sharp knife to cut through the solid mass, the smaller squash varieties are easier to prepare. Winter squash roasts with little effort and can easily become a main course or side dish. Filling half a delicata or other squash and roasting it with rice or quinoa changes up the flavors to make a heartier meal, and just a bit of crumbled bacon may convert a carnivore to a veg-forward dinner.
Storing seasonal vegetables can take some thought, as different families of vegetables prefer different conditions. Winter squash prefer warm and dry storage with air flow, whereas potatoes will last if kept in a cool, dark place with higher humidity. Carrots and fennel require refrigeration if you don’t intend to eat them right away. Don’t wash before storing, as the added moisture and possibility of damaging the skin may cause the vegetable to rot. Freezing or pickling are options as well. Leftover roasted squash can be puréed into soup and can play up different flavors.
It may take some culinary curiosity to incorporate winter vegetables into a menu, yet at this time of year it can be cozy and relaxing to spend a bit more time in the warmth of the kitchen. And discovering a new set of go-to recipes from seasonal vegetables can add new energy to meal preparation. It may impress your family or friends to introduce the unexpected ingredient to your next dinner.
Amagansett Stuffed Squash
Please don’t follow this recipe! Get creative with what’s available in your kitchen and what flavor combinations you like. If you can cook rice and sauté vegetables, then you can play with flavors and never make the same dish twice. It’s most important to cook the squash until fork-tender with water in the baking dish so that it cooks thoroughly without drying out.
For those striving to cook more meatless meals, squash creates a hearty and flavorful meal. Adding toasted nuts or grated cheese will ensure the dish is filling. C.S.A.s often have a hoop house with fresh herbs, which are a welcome addition to winter cooking.
Squash
Delicata, jester, koginut, acorn, or similar medium-size winter squash
Filling combinations
Farro with toasted hazelnuts, crispy sage, roasted garlic, and pancetta
Brown rice with tomato, sausage, garlic, fresh oregano, pine nuts, and pecorino
Quinoa with dried cranberry, toasted pecans, sauteed leeks, crispy sage, and pecorino
Roasted peppers, zucchini, tomatoes, oregano, and parmesan
Method
Preheat oven to 350 degrees.
Cut the squash lengthwise, from the point to the stem. Use a grapefruit spoon to scrape out seeds and pulp. Set aside seeds to roast.
Place squash in a roasting pan with cut side up. Season with salt, pepper. Add thin shavings of butter or a small splash of olive oil for flavor and to maintain moisture. Add water to fill the base of the pan and cover with another pan or with tin foil. The steam will speed up cooking and maintain moisture in the squash. Cook for 20 to 30 minutes and use a fork to test if the squash is tender. Carefully remove pan from oven, mindful of the hot water in the pan.
While squash is baking, prepare filling. Plan on roughly a cup of filling per squash half, depending on the size. Filling may be prepared ahead of time, but reheat it before putting it in the squash.
Place filling in squash halves, top with grated cheese and heat for 10 minutes.
Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Butter and sugar a souffle mold, then set aside. Whisk together yolks, sugar, , and cinnamon until well mixed. Whisk the whites until they hold their peaks, the recipe says, or until “a whole egg floats on top of them.” Fold into the yolk mixture, then pour into molds. Bake 20 minutes or until a knife or wooden skewer inserted into the souffle comes out clean.
Even if it flops, it’s delicious with vanilla ice cream!
