When the singer-songwriter Warren Zevon learned that he had terminal mesothelioma, he carried on with his life, recording one more album and making one last appearance on David Letterman’s “Late Show.” They had a frank and meaningful talk. David asked him if he had any wisdom or advice to impart, knowing that his life would be over in a matter of months.
“You put more value on every minute,” he began seriously. And finished with: “You’re reminded to enjoy every sandwich.”
“Enjoy Every Sandwich” is the title of the posthumous tribute album and the advice has been my mantra ever since.
Here’s the thing about sandwiches: They are versatile, economical, quick and easy to prepare, they’re good for breakfast, lunch, and dinner, and there are some versions of sandwiches in every part of the world.
It is believed that in 1762 John Montagu, the fourth Earl of Sandwich “invented” the sandwich simply by asking a servant to bring him some meat between two slices of bread. This way he could eat with his hands but not get them dirty because he was deep into a card game. He was very fond of gambling and was able to pay for Capt. James Cook’s Pacific expeditions with his winnings. In return, Captain Cook named the Hawaiian islands the Sandwich Islands in his honor.
If one were to loosen the interpretation of “sandwich,” then it would be more accurate to say the Chinese invented a version of it called rou jia mo. Their bread dates back to the Qin dynasty (221-206 B.C.).
I recently utilized my favorite lazy research tool to ask friends far and wide on Facebook: “What is your favorite sandwich and what is the BEST sandwich?”
It was delightful to see that the Reuben got the most mentions, along with the addendum “but don’t tell my cardiologist. ” The Reuben is my favorite sandwich, but it is impossible to get an authentic one out here, the quality of corned beef is essential and I’m sorry, your Boar’s Head meats don’t cut it. The good news is, you can get vegetarian and vegan versions locally at Carissa’s (pastrami-spice-cured beets) and Provisions (tempeh).
The F11 at Luigi’s in East Hampton got several mentions, this sando contains turkey, fresh mozzarella, sundried tomatoes, and arugula on focaccia. Villa Italian Specialties got a few shoutouts as well for its Villa Combo: capicola ham, Genoa salami, provolone cheese, sweet pickled peppers, lettuce, tomato, with Villa vinaigrette on a hero roll. My favorite at Villa is the DiMaggio: roast turkey, crispy pancetta, mixed greens, sliced red onion, melted Monterey Jack cheese, and sundried tomatoes on a hero.
There are certain sandwiches that you simply have to try at their place of origin, like a muffuletta or oyster po’ boy in New Orleans, a Cuban sandwich in Key West, or a banh mi at an authentic Vietnamese restaurant. The bread used for these particular sandwiches is very specific: There are the huge, round Sicilian sesame loaves for muffuletta and soft and airy but crunchy-crusted rolls for a Cuban or banh mi.
The best thing about playing around with sandwiches at home is they can be customized to your liking. For instance, I love the olive salad in a muffuletta more than the heart-stopping cured meats and cheese piled into it, so I go heavy on the salad, lighter on the naughtiness.
The Reuben is my favorite and I am willing to wait for my next trip to Katz’s Delicatessen in New York to get a decent one. The BEST sandwich in my opinion would be the fleeting seasonal tomato sandwich. You don’t even need a recipe, just a sentence. Slice a great tomato, slather white bread with your preferred mayo, add some generous pinches of salt and pepper, eat over sink.
Here are some recipes to inspire you. Enjoy every sandwich.
Olive Salad (for a Muffuletta)
Although you probably cannot find the gigantic traditional Sicilian rolls for a muffuletta around here, a hero, hoagie, or kaiser roll will do. Don’t make it with a baguette, focaccia, or ciabatta; they’re just a little too dense and chewy.
Here is a recipe for olive salad that should be enough to serve two to four people. The meats that go into a muffuletta traditionally are capicola ham, Genoa salami, mortadella, provolone, perhaps mozzarella, salami, and sopressata ham.
1 cup green olives with pimentos
1/4 cup kalamata olives, pitted
1/2 to 3/4 cup giardiniera (pickled vegetables available in supermarket)
1 Tbsp. capers
2 cloves garlic
1 tsp. dried oregano
Olive oil and red wine vinegar
Chop the first five ingredients into small bits. Rub the oregano in your palms, then add. Add a little bit of olive oil and red wine vinegar if you like. Let mixture marinate for about an hour to blend flavors.
To assemble the sandwich, put olive salad on one side of bread, pile meats and cheese on other. Wrap sandwich in plastic wrap and refrigerate for an hour or so.
Unwrap sandwich and rewrap in tin foil, heat in a toaster oven for a few minutes until bread gets a little crisp and inside of sandwich slightly warmed.
Shortcut Banh Mi
This recipe for a “shortcut” banh mi is from an ancient New York Times column. It’s not exactly a shortcut, but it is delicious.
Serves six.
For pickled vegetables:
3/4 cup shredded carrots
3/4 cup thinly sliced European cucumbers
1/2 cup shredded daikon radish
2 Tbsp. rice vinegar
2 Tbsp. sugar
1/4 tsp. salt
For the Pork:
1/2 cup mayonnaise
4 Tbsp. finely chopped scallions
2 to 3 Tbsp. sriracha or other hot sauce
1 Tbsp. peanut oil
4 garlic cloves, finely chopped
1 lb. ground pork
2 Tbsp. fish sauce
1/2 tsp. each salt and pepper
1 tsp. sugar
1/2 cup chopped fresh basil
Finely grated zest of one lime
Juice of 1/2 lime
6 small hero rolls
Fresh jalapeno slices, mint leaves, and cilantro leaves for serving
Toss first six ingredients in bowl and set aside for 30 minutes.
Combine mayonnaise with scallions and 1-2 Tbsp. chili sauce, set aside.
Sauté pork in peanut oil until cooked, then stir in one tablespoon chili sauce, fish sauce, pepper, salt, and sugar. Let cool five minutes then add mayonnaise mixture.
Fill bread with pork mixture, press the jalapeno, cilantro, and mint leaves into pork mixture, then top with pickled vegetables.
Russian Dressing (for a Reuben)
If you can get your hands on some good corned beef, here is an excellent Russian dressing recipe I found on a website called Striped Spatula. Now you can make a Reuben! This dressing is even better the next day.
Makes approximately one and a half cups.
1 cup mayonnaise
1/3 cup ketchup
1 Tbsp. horseradish
2 Tbsp. grated sweet onion (like Vidalia)
1 tsp. Worcestershire sauce
2 Tbsp. minced cornichons (or any other briny pickle)
1/4 tsp. smoked paprika
A few dashes hot sauce
Combine all together, let sit in fridge for an hour or so to blend flavors. Enjoy!
Open-Faced Sandwich of Spinach, Caramelized Onions, and Roasted Peppers
Maybe sometimes you want a more elegant open-faced sandwich. This is one of my favorites from Deborah Madison’s book “Vegetable Literacy.” It takes some prep work but it is worth it!
Serves two to four.
5 to 6 medium onions, sliced, and caramelized in about 2 Tbsp. olive oil, salt, and pepper
2 roasted and peeled sweet red peppers, sliced into strips
1 lb. spinach, quickly sautéed in olive oil with salt and pepper
1 piece of bread per person, such as ciabatta or whole grain levain
Thinly sliced ricotta salata cheese
1 clove garlic
Toast the bread slices, then rub with garlic clove. Top with caramelized onions, followed by spinach, then cheese. Lay red pepper strips over the top and drizzle with olive oil. Enjoy this with a knife and fork!
