The dynamic Dutch capital’s reputation for stag parties, spliff, and sex tourism belies diverse offerings for those willing to stray beyond the tourist hot spots. There’s no denying the city’s palpable yet joyful tension between serene beauty and beery hedonism — visitors either come for the picturesque charm of higgledy-piggledy houses on narrow streets or for sweaty techno raves in converted factories — but Amsterdam has it all, from the arts and entertainment to design, food, and greenery. Its canals are prettier than ever, the vibe is friendly and relaxed, and there’s no shortage of great things to do with the kids that won’t even cost you a guilder.
See
The famous Rijksmuseum has designated 2019 the “Year of Rembrandt” marking the 350th anniversary of the Dutch master’s death with extraordinary exhibitions and special events. The Van Gogh Museum is unmissable, and the inevitable lines can be managed by booking an afternoon slot online in advance. The Anne Frank House does not disappoint but it’s not the only secret attic in Amsterdam: Museum Ons’ Lieve Heer Op Solder is a 17th-century Catholic church constructed in the attic of a merchant’s house during the Protestant reformation. Lacking the queues of the more renowned museums, Op Solder is a great place for a reflection on religious freedom and a splendid example of Dutch Golden Age architecture.
the city’s palpable yet joyful tension between serene beauty and beery hedonism
Eat
Amsterdam’s Foodhallen, housed in a former tram depot, offers about two dozen stalls serving delicious international food. When in Amsterdam West, head to De Bakkerswinkel for breakfast or to get married (it’s one of the few places in Amsterdam that has a wedding-venue permit). Afterward, grab some Dutch ice cream at nearby Ijscuypje or a chunky bar of Dutch chocolate at Tony’s Chocolonely, where flavors include a milk popcorn Discodip. For the best pancakes, try Pannenkoekenhuis Upstairs, reached by ascending an incredibly narrow staircase. On the other side of town, Sidney Schutte of the Michelin-starred Librije’s Zusje has opened a no-fuss alternative, Café Cliché, that has a neighborhood atmosphere and affordable, no-nonsense dishes. Or, hang out with the cool kids at Pllek on NDSM Island, once the biggest shipyard in Europe. A free ferry ride from behind Centraal Station will take you to this trendy restaurant housed in a jumble of old shipping containers with a glass front looking out over the river.
Shop
Amsterdam has lots of markets, each with their own character, such as the weekly Noordermarkt farmers market in the Jordaan, where you can fill up just by sampling all the organic food on sale. The Waterlooplein flea market is jammed with antiques, bicycle parts, vintage coats, jewelry, silk scarves, boxes of old keys, and camera parts. Bloemenmarkt is a unique floating flower market with more tulips than you could possibly sneeze at. For something more contemporary, check out Moderne Hippies, a recent addition to the city’s market lineup, hawking lefty lifestyle fare.
The nine little alleys crisscrossing the main canals, from Reestraat through to Wijde Heisteeg, are Amsterdam’s most charming shopping area and very much worth a visit, even if only for an atmospheric stroll.
Stay
Hotel Pulitzer Amsterdam stretches through 25 houses and between two canals. Many rooms have gorgeous views of Amsterdam’s most picturesque canal, Prinsengracht. Modern art from the hotel’s collection finds its way into the rooms, too.
A true budget beauty, the Volkshotel, housed in the former offices of De Volkskrant newspaper, offers an affordable alternative for, according to its website, “stockbrokers and punk rockers, dandies and poets, dishwashers and underwater welders” — you get the picture. It’s the hotel of the people, with thoughtfully designed rooms, a club, an artists-in-residence program, and rooftop bar-restaurant serving adventurous new Dutch cuisine.
Do
Amsterdam is synonymous with cycling, but biking in the busy center is not for the fainthearted. Opt instead for a countryside tour astride a bakfiets (the quintessential Dutch family bike). WeBike Amsterdam offers family-friendly, four-hour tours through a picturesque Dutch village, pedaling past windmills and waterways. Alternatively, explore the city from the water on the Gs Brunch Boat, a converted coal barge with a retro interior and sunshine roof — a nice alternative to the regular tour boat formulas. The round trip lasts an hour and 35 minutes, includes a meal and drinks, and passes through the historical centre and out to the IJ harbor with its modern architecture.
Of all the green oases sprinkled throughout the city, Vondelpark is the largest and prettiest. But the Rijksmuseum’s public gardens make for an even more scenic option, with meticulously tended flowerbeds and an impressive sculpture collection.
