Service Station

100 Montauk Highway

East Hampton

631-267-5603

Lunch and dinner daily Once upon a time there was a restaurant in East Hampton called Nichol’s. It was tiny and cozy and chock full of Anglophilia and served good pub grub. The drinks were cheap and large, wine served in goblets, beer by the bucket. It was popular with those who appreciate good value. It changed hands a few times. For a while it was Winston’s, with the same decor but with a few Jamaican accents added to the menu and decor. Winston’s was good, but now it is the Service Station and it is better.

The warren of small rooms has been opened up and lightened. The floors and trim are dark, the walls off-white, and there are a few hints that this location was, in fact, once a service station, such as the old-fashioned bell hose outside that gives a little “ding ding” when you walk or drive over it.

There is a nice outdoor patio next to the parking lot for those who don’t mind dining 20 feet from the zoom-zooming traffic of Route 27. The inside is still cozy but now feels bigger. There is an attractive copper bar in the back with two big flat screen TVs.

We began our meal with very reasonable, very good cocktails, along with Caesar salad, calamari, beef satay, and spinach artichoke dip. Now, I consider myself quite a connoisseur of Caesar salad. I make it at home all the time and feel very strongly about the balance of flavors. It must be lemony and garlicky and have at least a whisper of anchovies. A somewhat creamy consistency is good, homemade croutons a must, and it needs just the right amount of freshly grated Parmesan cheese. The Service Station version was most excellent — tart, flavorful, well-balanced dressing on a whole wedge of crisp romaine with house-made croutons. We all agreed it was just right. 

The calamari was also very good and a good-size portion. One of the best parts about it was the addition of string beans, lemon slices, and strips of peppadew peppers that had also been fried with the calamari. It was served with a slightly spicy sriracha aioli. But the aspect that really caught our (okay, just my) attention was the spectacular batter on the squid and its little vegetable buddies on the plate. Extra crunchy and savory, it was so good it convinced us to order more fried stuff, as in chicken. More on that later. 

The beef satay was also delicious: six skewers with tender, marinated grilled meat and a zesty peanut sauce. It was almost as tender as filet, but I’m guessing it was hanger or skirt steak. The spinach artichoke dip (compliments of the management because one of our guests is a friend) was served in a warm ramekin with creamed spinach on the bottom and marinated, chopped artichokes and red onion on top. The fried flour tortillas served alongside were a good accompaniment.

For entrees we tried the fish tacos, seared scallops, Lee Roy’s Southern-fried chicken sandwich, and a special of that evening of chicken thighs with polenta. 

The two codfish tacos were on grilled flour tortillas with a creamy slaw, pico de gallo, and a tart avocado sauce. They were very good. 

The scallop dish was pretty good but a bit messy, as was the chicken thigh dish. Both were completely covered with a layer of arugula. The scallops were tender and cooked properly, but my guest found them to be a bit sweet. The corn orzo served underneath was pretty good, but the big leaves of curly kale didn’t add anything. The Southern-fried chicken sandwich was a winner. It was served on a brioche bun with a tomato slice, red onion, lettuce, more great slaw, and a hidden treat of pancetta bacon. Once again, the batter on the chicken was superb. The sandwich also came with a little basket of excellent skin-on French fries. 

The chicken thigh special was tasty, but as I mentioned before, the huge layer of arugula covering the whole dish made it hard to navigate slicing the meat. But the flavors were good — creamy, somewhat cheesy polenta with boned, very crisp thighs, and a slightly sweet glaze.

Service on the night of our visit was excellent, and the place filled up quickly. Our waiter, Dominique, was helpful and knowledgeable, and one of the owners visited our table several times. It was a happy, professional, and welcoming environment. 

Prices are reasonable. Starters and salads are $10 to $17, main dishes are $17 to $26, sides are $6 to $8, kids’ menu items are $10, and desserts are $9 and $10.

For dessert we ordered the brownie sundae and strawberry rhubarb pie. The cookies and brownies are made in house. The brownie sundae had a very good fudgy brownie with chocolate chips, along with a premium dark chocolate ice cream and vanilla ice cream. I’m not sure where the strawberry rhubarb pie came from, but it was tart and fresh with a good flaky crust. The slice was enough for two people.

The Service Station offers very, very good comfort foods at reasonable prices and is a family-friendly place. What kid wouldn’t love getting “breakfast for dinner”?!

I was never a fan of fare at Nichol’s, and I admit I will miss Winston’s jerk chicken, but the Service Station is just what we need out here: open every day, year round. Fill ’er up? Yes, please.

Holiday Fare

For those hosting meals or get-togethers to mark the Jewish holidays, Art of Eating in Amagansett is offering catered menu items for breakfast and other meals. Orders for Yom Kippur must be placed by Sunday. The choices include a smoked fish platter, salads, salmon — smoked, lox, and poached and roasted — and noodle pudding. 

For starters, one can order mini potato pancakes, hummus and eggplant caponata, chopped liver, gefilte fish, and chicken soup with matzo balls. Entree choices include fish, filet mignon, roasted turkey, chicken, and brisket. Side dishes and desserts are available as well. 

Smokin’ Wolf

Smokin’ Wolf, the barbecue takeout shop on Pantigo Road in East Hampton, will be open on Monday, the Columbus Day holiday, for both lunch and dinner. The spot is normally open Tuesday through Thursday from 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. and Friday and Saturday from 11 to 9. 

At Baron’s Cove

Baron’s Cove restaurant in Sag Harbor is open year round, and on Saturday will have a fall festival from 1 to 8 p.m. featuring barbecue brisket, ribs, beer-can chicken, and smoked striped bass, along with sliders, burgers, and hot dogs. Taking care of the outdoor barbecue pits will be Matty Boudreau, the Baron’s Cove chef, Rob Shawger, the owner of Pig Beach in New York City, and a special guest, John David Wheeler of the Memphis Barbecue Company, who is well- known for his barbecue. There will be live music from 2 to 5 p.m. 

Outdoor service at Baron’s Cove continues on the terrace, where a fireplace and heat lamps help make it comfortable for an extended season. 

A lounge menu is available from noon to 9 p.m.

Momi Ramen

Wednesday is locals’ night at Momi Ramen in East Hampton. From 5 to 10 p.m., Sapporo draft beer is two-for-one, and free snacks will be served at the bar.

Wine Wednesday

Wednesday is also the night for wine sessions at Wainscott Main Wine and Spirits, which has a weekly fall series of wine tasting and discussion sessions under way. Next up will be a field trip to the tasting room at Wolffer Estate Vineyard in Sagaponack, led by Roman Roth, the winemaker and a partner in the vineyard, and Richie Pisacano, the vineyard manager. Reservations are a must as there is a limit of 30 participants. The full line-up of wine sessions, which cost $10 each and begin at 5:30 p.m., can be found at the shop’s website. On Oct. 19, Christian Troy of Indie Wineries will discuss wines for Thanksgiving. 

Maude Muto, the owner and chef at Hampton Herbivore, and a member of the team at the Wellness Foundation of East Hampton, will demonstrate how to make a delicious plant-based dessert at a potluck dinner on Wednesday at 6 p.m. at the South Fork Natural History Museum in Bridgehampton. Those who plan to attend have been asked to take a dish made without animal ingredients to share, as well as one’s own utensils and plate to sample the variety of heart-healthy, plant-based foods. In addition, a donation of $10 has been recommended, to benefit the museum and the Wellness Foundation’s W Kids program. 

Fall Menu

The fall menu at Baron’s Cove restaurant in Sag Harbor includes dishes based on locally sourced ingredients, such as scallops with spaghetti squash from the Milk Pail farm, roasted North Fork fennel and radishes with brown butter vinaigrette, parsnip soup, and cauliflower beignets with a spicy carrot dipping sauce.

Baron’s Cove is open for morning coffee at 7 a.m. daily, with an a la carte breakfast served on Saturdays and Sundays from 7:30 to 11 a.m., brunch on those days from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m., and dinner nightly beginning at 5.

Dave’s Gone Fishing

In Montauk, Dave’s Gone Fishing on East Lake Drive is open for dinner tomorrow and Saturday starting at 5:30 p.m. before closing for the season.

Bridgehampton Prix Fixe

The restaurant at the Bridgehampton Inn is offering a three-course prix fixe dinner for $35 on Wednesdays through Sundays before 7 p.m. There is no corkage fee on Sundays. The inn has a new cocktail lounge for relaxing before or after dinner. 

Sunday Dinner

Babette’s will offer a $19.95 “locals” prix fixe on Sundays from 5 to 9 p.m. Appetizer choices will include turkey meatballs, barbecue tofu, steamed edamame, and crisp goat cheese dumplings. Among the entrée choices will be pan-roasted Atlantic cod, chicken mole enchiladas, vegetable pad thai, roasted organic chicken, and entrée-size salads, and for dessert, there will be a choice between two vegan options: carrot cake or chocolate fudge cake. 

Oktoberfest

On Saturday at Baron’s Cove restaurant in Sag Harbor, Matty Boudreau, the chef, will serve up a menu in honor of Oktoberfest from 1 to 5 p.m. Bratwurst, sausages, grilled corn, German-style pretzels, apple cider, seasonal brews, and more will be offered. 

Clam Pies

After the “Bonacker Clam-Shucking and Grinding Extravaganza” held last weekend at the East Hampton Historical Farm Museum, volunteers have been baking traditional clam pies that will be sold at the museum, at North Main and Cedar Streets in East Hampton, on Saturday, beginning at noon. They will cost $30, and the proceeds will benefit the museum’s exhibits and programs.

Prix Fixe at Babette’s

Babette’s restaurant on Newtown Lane in East Hampton is serving its menu of health-conscious fare this fall at breakfast, lunch, and dinnertime, Fridays through Sundays, and for breakfast and lunch on Mondays and Thursdays.  A Sunday-night prix fixe, offered from 5 to 9 p.m., is $19.95 and features a choice of turkey meatballs, barbecue tofu, steamed edamame, and crisp goat cheese dumplings, among other items, for starters, followed by entrees such as chicken mole enchiladas, vegetable pad thai, roast chicken, salads, and Atlantic cod. Dessert is included as well. 

At the Living Room

The Living Room restaurant at c/o the Maidstone inn has begun “meatball Mondays,” when the Swedish inn’s signature meatball dish will be offered for $28. On Fridays, pot pies are on special for $19, and on Sundays, burgers, with beer, are $25 in the lounge.

Pizzas, Prix Fixe

Prix fixe dinners at Nick and Toni’s in East Hampton include a $30 option with salad, a pasta entree, and two scoops of gelato or sorbet; a $35 choice with salad or penne to start followed by roast chicken and tartufo for dessert, and the “chef’s choice” for $40, which features the appetizer, entree, and dessert of the day. The specials are offered Sunday through Friday, but not on holidays, and are not available for takeout.

The restaurant also has a Sunday through Thursday pizza menu, with all different toppings from its wood-fired oven, from $10 to $19. During happy hour on Monday through Friday from 5:30 to 6:30 p.m., and on Sundays from 2:30 to 6:30 p.m., a glass of wine selected by the sommelier is $8, a bottled beer of the house choice is $6, and selected cocktails will be half price. Bar bites for $10 include pizza margherita, a salumi plate, and a cheese plate. Sliders, bruschetta, a hummus plate, and more are also on the happy hour menu for under $10.

Fall Fest Fare

A fall festival at the Amagansett Farmers Market on Saturday from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. will include an opportunity for foodies to sample offerings from the food truck sponsored by Shelter Island’s Vine Street Café, seasonal sweets from the Mill House Inn, and Joe & Liza’s pumpkin ice cream.

Cafe Max to Close

After 25 years in business, Cafe Max, the mainstay restaurant on the Montauk Highway in East Hampton, will close its doors for good on Thanksgiving weekend. The owners and staff have said they hope to see their longtime loyal customers before that takes place.

Is there a food or food product that you remember from your childhood with great fondness? Have you ever revisited that food in the hopes that the taste satisfaction would match your memory of it? Did it?

It is a scientific fact that our taste memory is our strongest, stronger than sight, sound, and smell.

A friend recently reminded me of Durkee Famous Sauce and insisted we find it so we could make ham salad. We found it, we made the salad, he was swooning in an ecstasy of nostalgic flavors, I found it ghastly. His taste memory was satisfied, but all I could taste was bad egg yolks and vinegar.

I put this question to my gazillion friends on Facebook, because nothing gets people’s enthusiasm going more than a nostalgic food memory. For those with a Pennsylvania connection, Tastykake products came up a lot, like Butterscotch Crumpets and jellyrolls. For those who had remembered these fondly, they just didn’t taste as good anymore. Same for Entenmann’s baked goods. A lot of people miss Sara Lee banana cake and golden fudge cake. One friend in the D.C. area recently drove all over southern Maryland looking for Ring Dings, Ding Dongs, and Devil Dogs so he could share this childhood favorite with his daughter.

Some of these items (most seem to be in the junk food category) have been reformulated into a “healthier” version, less trans fats, less partially hydrogenated oils, less sugar. Let’s face it, if you were ever a Twinkies fan, you would agree they are not the same.

Some companies just change the name. Since we now know that sugar is the devil’s scouring powder, that word has been removed from the names of numerous cereals where it once was considered a selling point. Sugar Crisp is now Golden, Sugar Chex are now Honey Nut, Sugar Pops are Corn, Sugar Frosted Flakes are now just Frosted, Sugar Smacks are Honey, and Sugar Rice Krinkles are, well, actually extinct. But don’t let the names fool you, some of these cereals are still as much as 56 percent sugar!

Spam is a block of foodstuff that just won’t die. Even the Hormel website begins with “the Spam family of products is all around us.” At the end of their “brand overview,” they say “the Spam family of products are great for yesterday, today, and tomorrow.” It’s not the bad grammar that bothers me so much as what appears to be a veiled hint to survivalists filling their bunkers with the distinctive square blue cans.

Spam contains six ingredients: pork, salt, water, sugar, potato starch, and sodium nitrate. The potato starch is to keep the gelatin nicely coagulated, the sodium nitrate preserves color. Some people think the name is an acronym or a shortened version of “spiced ham,” but it contains neither ham nor spices. It was named at a Hormel New Year’s Eve party. Some drunken fellow just blurted out the word “spam,” and it stuck. 

I grew up eating Spam. My father had developed a fondness for it during World War II, so my mother would serve it occasionally, all gussied up with pineapple rings stuck with cloves, and a cherry in the middle. The last time I tasted Spam I had to marvel over the fact that this was a frequent centerpiece at our family meals. And yet it remains hugely popular in Hawaii, especially in the Japanese and Korean communities. It is used in sushi as “musubu,” wrapped in nori on seasoned rice. 

For a while the famous Animal restaurant in Los Angeles was serving “Spam and foie gras loco moco,” traditionally a rice bowl topped with egg, hamburger, and gravy. This Spam dish has been described as being an “emblem of the restaurant’s giddy, sophisticated stoner sensibility.”

A lot of friends brought up Lucky Stars cereal, which no longer tastes so “magically delicious.” Some remember liverwurst sandwiches as being a favorite comfort food, but it just doesn’t taste the same. I am guilty of the occasional liverwurst craving, on rye bread with mustard and red onion, but when I read the fat content I take two bites and throw the rest away. Kraft Macaroni and Cheese, Campbell’s cream of celery soup, black and white cookies, Wonder Bread rolled into dough balls, ketchup sandwiches, Mrs. Paul’s fish sticks — eww. Domestic chocolate candies such as Reese’s Peanut Butter Cups were cited as tasting more waxy than chocolatey nowadays.

So have our tastes changed, or become more discerning with age? Or have the actual products changed? It’s probably a combination of both. For those of us who grew up with no seat belts in cars, doctors smoking in their offices, and our parents innocently serving us these newfangled convenience foods, it’s a wonder we are still alive.

The craving for nostalgic foods remains. Why else would the revered chef and author David Chang of Momofuko fame come up with the hugely successful “cereal milk”? Yes, it is milk that tastes like what’s left in your bowl after eating all the sugary cereal. A restaurant called Park Avenue changes menus every season, and one of its most popular autumn recipes is a broccoli dish swimming in a heavy cream, garlic, and cheese sauce, topped with Cheetos. And it is delicious!

Most people who answered my query found that their childhood favorite food just didn’t taste the same and they had no desire to try it again. This is a good thing. We have all become more health-conscious, we read labels, and we have access to better and more varied foods. But for those who don’t mind being led down the primrose path, just a little ways, here are some naughty recipes you might want to try every now and then. And for the record, marshmallow Rice Krispy treats still taste the same to me. I will occasionally buy one at a gas station before a long drive, and I savor every, chewy, sugary bite.

Click for recipes

At “Garden to Table: Eating for Wellness,” a program on Saturday at Bridge Gardens in Bridgehampton, Rick Bogusch, the garden manager, will lead a trip to the site’s vegetable garden to harvest fresh vegetables, and will demonstrate how to create a delicious salad from them, which will be shared. Barbara Kinnier of the Wellness Foundation of East Hampton will explain how one can get all needed nutrients and protein from a plant-based diet. Those attending have been invited to take a picnic of vegetarian foods to share. The cost is $10 per person, and reservations, with the Peconic Land Trust in Southampton, are required.

North Fork Foodie Tour

The 10th annual North Fork Foodie Tour sets sail on Sunday from the Agricultural Center in Southold. Self-guided visits to 20 different locations of interest to foodies, from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m., will include a behind-the-scenes look at farms and vineyards, cooking demonstrations, talks by food producers, and tastings. Participating locations include Deep Roots Farm, Lavender by the Bay, Macari Wines, 8 Hands Farm, and the North Fork Roasting Company. Tickets are $25 per person, with no charge for children under 12. Tickets can be purchased online at northforkreformsynagogue.org, or on the day of the tour at any of the locations.

Napa Wines

Next Thursday night brings the Living Room restaurant’s wine dinner, featuring four courses made with seasonal and local ingredients, paired with wines from the Napa Valley’s Frank Family Vineyard. The East Hampton restaurant will begin serving sparkling rosé and nibbles 15 minutes before the 7 p.m. start of the dinner. The price is $135 plus tax and gratuity.

Garden Gala

And on Saturday, Estia’s Little Kitchen will host its “Gala in the Garden,” a dinner and wine tasting, with a wine auction and live music, to benefit Slow Food East End, ALS Ride for Life, and Project Mosr. Tickets are $350 in advance only and can be reserved at slowfoodeastend.org.

It’s that time of year. Perhaps you are sending a daughter or son off to college, or in my case, helping a son set up his first singleton apartment. Hopefully, by now, you have taught your offspring one of the most important life skills: how to cook for his or herself. If you haven’t, woe be to those children, for they will be eating Domino’s pizza and Subway sandwiches and bagels from the cafeteria.

Some colleges and universities have meal plans and some do not. Your darling may be in a dorm room where cooking is not feasible or even allowed, but she may also be moving into her own or a shared apartment and be faced with preparing her own three squares a day.

When I attended Kenyon College in Ohio, they used a food service called Saga. There were four levels of quality: A, B, C, and D. D was for prisons and mental hospitals, C was not much better, A and B were for nice hotels and clubs. Our college had C. Hence I gained 25 pounds freshman year, because I survived on a gloppy concoction of cottage cheese, peanut butter, honey, and granola. Campus housing was 90 percent dormitories with no facilities for cooking your own food.

My son attended McGill University in Montreal, which has no meal plan. His roommates freshman year were Canadian hockey players, and as far as I can tell they all subsisted on a jumbo jar of peanut butter and beer. (The drinking age is 18 in Canada.) But my intrepid gourmet found the cheap, ethnic food courts of the underground shopping malls and survived on the relatively balanced Ethiopian, Middle Eastern, and Korean foods he found there. He did not succumb to the ghastly Tim Horton’s doughnuts found on every street corner, nor poutine, the national Quebecois dish of French fries topped with cheese curds and smothered in gravy.

If your child is fortunate enough to have cooking facilities in his dorm or apartment, here is a simple primer to get him started. First, equipment. Every kitchen needs three basic knives and they must be high quality and kept sharp: a paring knife, a chef’s knife, and a bread knife. 

Teach him how to sharpen the first two. You do know how to sharpen knives, don’t you? Second, two frying pans, one cast-iron and one nonstick. Cast-iron frying pans are cheap and can be used for baking as well as searing, sauteeing, frying, etc. For both pans, you might as well have 10-to-12-inch sizes; they are more versatile than several small ones. For the nonstick pan, I’m sorry to say you’ll have to get a moderately expensive one because it will last longer and is made with safer materials than the Teflon of yore. 

Next, get a large enough pot with a steamer basket so he can make any manner of steamed vegetables and pasta, pasta, pasta. If your darling really does like to cook, treat him to a Dutch-oven casserole. This is perfect for chilies, soups, stews, anything that calls for long, slow, even cooking. And by the way, you can often find these in perfect condition at yard sales and thrift stores. They are virtually indestructible. I am still using the Dutch ovens that my grandparents and parents used. 

Now, let’s be ever so hopeful that your child will make and eat salads often, so give him a nice wooden salad bowl with serving implements. Or a set of stainless steel or glass bowls that can do double or triple duty. A few of the boring necessities are a can opener, a set of measuring cups, baking sheet, a microplane grater (for grating ginger, garlic, nutmeg, etc.), two spatulas, two big spoons, oven mitts or pot holders, and some dish towels. 

Let him pick out his own. I was very unsuccessful in trying to pawn off some old, blue-flowered dish towels on my son. For glassware you can’t go wrong with Duralex, the cheap French, almost unbreakable glasses that come in a variety of sizes. For flatware, I recommend solid pieces. Don’t be tempted by the colorful, plastic-handled sets. Someone will inevitably leave them soaking in the sink for a few days, and they will fall apart. 

Lastly, give him one or two good, basic cookbooks like “The Joy of Cooking” or Fannie Farmer’s “Boston Cooking School Cook Book.” If your son or daughter is a vegetarian, give him or her a Deborah Madison or old school Moosewood cookbook.

I say this over and over to young people and non-cooks and newlyweds: If you know how to roast a chicken and make a decent vinaigrette, you can cook for anyone, anytime. Shortcuts are okay, too. Get some already cooked brown rice from your local Chinese takeout and make fried rice with it. Take advantage of salad bars to get the ingredients you need to make a good salad at home. Buy the preshredded cabbage from the supermarket to save time on coleslaw or the recipe for okonomiyaki. 

Always have a well-stocked pantry with canned tuna, beans, pasta, and tomato sauces. If you keep eggs, onions, shallots, Parmesan, and other cheeses in your fridge, you will always have an omelette at your fingertips within five minutes. Keep a loaf of sliced, whole-grain bread in your freezer; just take out what you need when you need it. Frozen peas and chopped spinach are damned adequate staples to keep in the freezer as well.

Don’t let your soon-to-be-independent child rely on crappy cafeteria food, overseasoned, fatty takeout, or the glop I ate in college for his or her meals. Teach this most important of life skills and he or she will be healthier, more independent, and will save a lot of money to boot!

Click for recipes

Estia’s Little Kitchen

1615 Bridgehampton-Sag Harbor Turnpike

Sag Harbor

631-725-1045

Monday, 8 a.m.-3 p.m., Wednesday through Sunday, 8 a.m.-3 p.m. 

and 5-9 p.m.

There is something about a small, cozy restaurant that creates an atmosphere of jollity and camaraderie. Estia’s Little Kitchen is such a place. 

If you’ve ever driven by around breakfast or lunchtime, you would see a massive number of cars lined up, some parked willy-nilly. It’s hard to believe that this many people can fit into this tiny spot. In Italy, it would be called a trattoria, in France a bistro, in Greece a taverna. It’s not a cafe, and you certainly can’t call it a diner, especially if you’ve had the good fortune to dine there in the evenings.

Estia’s Little Kitchen is located on the Bridgehampton-Sag Harbor Turnpike and consists of one small dining room with about 10 tables, some bar stools, and another even smaller dining room off to the left. What used to be a bunch of weeds and grass in the back has been transformed into an oasis with a big garden and a grassy seating area with tables and a lot of charm. The interior is painted a pale yellow, and the simplicity of furnishings belies what is about to appear on your plate.

While this place is best known for its breakfasts and lunches with a Mexican accent, it transforms in the evenings with a somewhat more sophisticated atmosphere and more diverse menu. The tables don’t just have a perfunctory sprig of chrysanthemum or single rosebud, they have pretty bouquets in Mason jars: purple dahlias and white cosmos, no doubt picked from the garden in back.

I visited Estia’s Little Kitchen recently with some fellow year-rounders who had been for breakfast before, but not dinner. We began our meal with tortilla soup, crab tostadas, and adobo pork nachos. We were told the soup was spicy, and we all agreed it was just spicy enough. It was full of flavor from peppers and tomatoes, pureed and served with crisp, fried tortilla strips, cubes of ripe avocado, and bits of cotija cheese. 

The crab tostadas were two crunchy tortillas on top of refried black beans, topped with a mayo-y crab salad. The coleslaw served alongside was full of Napa cabbage, carrots, red onions, cilantro, and bright bits of pickled red peppers. This dish was delicious, but we all agreed that the cold bean puree on the bottom was superfluous. 

The adobo pork nachos were insanely good and a big enough portion to be an entree. The tortilla chips were freshly fried, topped with just enough jack cheese, and smothered with chunks of tender, flavorful pork. The salsa on top was perfectly balanced, spicy and tasting of roasted tomatoes. The occasional bit of chorizo gave it an extra kick, and it was topped with excellent guacamole and sour cream.

For entrees we had the shredded pork burrito, crisp California chicken, and crab cakes. The shredded pork burrito was very good, full of more tasty pork and served with a lighter slaw full of corn, carrots, avocado, diced tomatoes, and red onions. A cup of pico de gallo was served with it. 

The crisp chicken was indeed crispy, even with a generous topping of more salsa. It was a boned breast with the wing bone attached and was perfectly seasoned and juicy. The mashed potatoes served with it were a nice old-fashioned version, a little bit lumpy. The coleslaw served with the chicken seemed lighter and more citrusy than the previous slaws, which provided a nice contrast to the chicken and potatoes. 

The crab cakes were excellent — three good-sized sturdy ones with a crunchy panko breadcrumb crust and enough slaw to feed three people. A dollop of tartar sauce was on the side of the plate, but it was more fun to sample the two hot sauces on the table with the crab cakes, one a tart, creamy tomatillo, the other a peppery, vinegary tomato version. As we were passing our plates around for each of us to taste, one guest refused to surrender the burrito until his chicken dish came back. It was akin to a hostage-trading situation, which I took as an excellent reflection on the food!

The service on the night of our visit was very good. Our waitress, Julia, knew the menu well and agreed that our choice of wine was perfect with the dishes we had chosen. Prices at Estia’s Little Kitchen are moderate, especially for the quality and size of the portions. Starters, salads, and soups are $9 to $16, entrees are $17 to $32, and desserts are $9 to $12. There is no hard liquor, but there is a nice selection of beers and wine. And for those who are so inclined, the corkage fee for bringing your own bottle is a ridiculously reasonable $20, which is about a third of what you would pay at other restaurants.

For desserts (which are all made in house) we tried the tres leches cake, chocolate flan cake, and carrot cake. 

The carrot cake was definitely the star of the three — moist, nutty, just sweet enough, and with an excellent cream cheese icing.

The tres leches cake was pretty good, a pale white cake with a cinnamon dappled whipped cream topping and a few berries on the side. We couldn’t quite detect the traditional moistening layer of sweetened condensed and evaporated milk. The chocolate flan cake was okay. It was a bit dry on the bottom, and the flan layer was slightly overdone and lacked the caramel syrup one expects swimming on the plate.

After our meal we took a peek into the back dining room. Only one couple was there, and they looked a bit startled to see us. “This is our private room,” they said, and laughed. We all agreed it was a fine and cozy place.

Colin Ambrose, the chef-owner, has been in the restaurant business on the East End for a long, long time, first with the original Estia’s in Amagansett. He is known for his vigorous support of organic farming and use of the freshest local ingredients, and it shows in everything he serves. Looking back, I wish we had sampled his famous homemade pasta or the potato-crusted flounder. Next time.

Bravo, Mr. Ambrose, your seemingly humble little restaurant on the turnpike packs a superb and flavorful punch. I wouldn’t call it a hidden treasure, just a treasure.

It took longer than anticipated, but last month a 1977 Citroen H van rolled into the Kirk Park Beach parking lot in Montauk and Bex Waffles was open for business. 

With an original spin on the classic waffle, Becky Moody and Tanya Simmonds-Rosa were in the van six days per week through Labor Day, serving up waffle sandwiches infused with handmade ingredients like bacon, chicken, or fruit like banana or mango. The sandwiches include additions like guacamole or maple cream and extras like cinnamon, Nutella, or peanut butter. For the adventurous, there is a roasted ratatouille vegetable waffle sandwich, featuring eggplant from a neighbor’s garden in Sag Harbor and said to be reminiscent of pizza. On weekends, Bex Waffles offers a potato, egg, and salsa breakfast sandwich. Gluten-free options are available. 

“It’s ‘build your own waffle sandwich,’ ” said Ms. Moody, the managing director, or Bex to her friends in London, where she did a postgraduate internship. “You get two waffles with your order. Anything gets baked right into the batter. Then, you can take anything from sweet or savory to go in it — people like bacon-maple, chicken-maple. Bacon, guacamole, and cheese is really popular. Banana is popular with peanut butter or honey. We do a lot with dark chocolate or Nutella, like mango-coconut cream.” 

A career detour from corporate work to pastry chef, both in Manhattan and then to a food truck on the South Fork, was decided more than a year ago, said the Arizona native, after she found the Citroen van, manufactured in France and nicknamed Barry. “I saw one like this for the first time in London,” she said, “and then found a guy that brings them over to England and restores them. It was in the South of France, then it went to London, from London to New Jersey, from New Jersey to Brooklyn. We built the kitchen in Brooklyn, and it arrived in Montauk a little over a month ago.” 

That was after a month-long holdup, courtesy of the United States Customs and Border Protection. The permitting process with the Town of East Hampton and Suffolk County delayed the launch further, “but we finally got done, and now we’re here,” Ms. Moody said.

The response has been “really good,” she said. “It’s taken a while, but we see a lot more locals now than we used to. People really like the product, and they’re telling their friends. It’s a lot of fun, and really rewarding to see people enjoying it.” Ms. Moody also delivers orders — by bicycle — to customers in the downtown Montauk area. 

Ms. Simmonds-Rosa (official title: assistant to the director), a native of Kent, England, left a law firm in Hong Kong to help Ms. Moody with the launch. “People like the product,” she said while creating a delectable banana-and-maple-cream sandwich, “and we just want people to come try it. The community has been so great and supportive. They seem to love the food, and even go online and give us reviews. It’s been really good to have such great support.”

Patrick Kline, a Southampton native, is the third partner. “He’s been helping me learn all things local that I need to do to get set up,” Ms. Moody said.

Bex Waffles has a three-year permit for the Kirk Park Beach lot. This year, “We are definitely sticking it out through September and into October,” Ms. Moody said. “I plan on being open as long as possible, roaming a bit more on the South Fork in the off season, and definitely doing any events, weddings, or parties.”

The Southampton Publick House, settled in at its relatively new Job’s Lane location, is serving Sunday brunch from 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m. A $16 prix fixe includes pancakes, French toast, eggs Benedict, huevos rancheros, quiche, omelets, and steak and eggs, along with coffee or tea. 

The Publick House will tap its first keg of this year’s Octoberfest Lager at the start of a 4 p.m. happy hour tomorrow. That will kick off a celebration to include German dinner specials such as sauerbraten, ale-braised short ribs, horseradish-crusted cod, smoked salmon salad, and a bratwurst and knockwurst platter. Happy hour drink specials will be offered as well. 

Learn About Wine

A new wine-tasting workshop series begins at Wainscott Main Wine and Spirits on Oct. 5. The fall session will take place weekly on Wednesdays at 5:30 p.m. through Dec. 7, and will include, besides different presentations, a BYOC (bring your own cheese) potluck, with participants encouraged to bring noshes to contribute to the appetizers served weekly. At the first session, Andrew Bell of American Sommelier will give a refresher course on “tasting like a pro,” and at the last session, in December, Michael Cohen, the wine director at the 1770 House restaurant in East Hampton, will give his “Shop It Like a Somm: Value Wines for Your Celebration Table” talk. Information on sessions in between, and registration information, is available on the shop’s website. Each session costs $10; all levels of oenophiles will be welcomed, and R.S.V.P.s have been encouraged. 

Pancakes in Paris and Sag

Pancakes will be served at Canio’s Books in Sag Harbor following a talk on Saturday at 5 p.m. by Craig Carlson, the author of a memoir, “Pancakes in Paris: Living the American Dream in France.” The book discusses his efforts to introduce the traditional American breakfast to Parisians. 

Nick and Toni’s Brunch

Another Sunday brunch choice is Nick and Toni’s in East Hampton, which offers an a la carte menu and specialty brunch cocktails each week between 11:30 a.m. and 2:30 p.m.  Pastries, salads, pizzas, egg dishes, pasta, and more are on the menu. 

Evening Eats

At Momi Ramen in East Hampton, a bar menu offered on Fridays and Saturdays from 8 to 10 p.m. includes oshinko (Japanese pickled vegetables) and eda­mame for $5; two types of gyoza, a Japanese-style dumpling, for $8, and kara-age, fried items, for $8.

Pre-Theater Dinner

In conjunction with Guild Hall’s John Drew Theater Lab shows on Tuesday and on Oct. 4, the 1770 House in East Hampton will offer a $27 prix fixe dinner for those who place orders by 6:30 p.m. in order to make the theater’s 7:30  curtain time. A starter and main course, or main course and dessert, can be ordered off the a la carte menu. Reservations must be made using the code JDTLab. 

Fall Sports, Food, Drink

At Townline BBQ in Sagaponack, specials available at the bar Thursdays and Fridays from 4 to 7 p.m., and all day on Saturdays, Sundays, and Mondays to coincide with football games, include drinks as well as orders of half a dozen chicken wings (choice of style) for $6, and a cheeseburger or hot dog with fries and a beer for $9, or without the beer for $6.50. 

At Indian Wells Tavern in Amagansett, a snacks menu will accompany drink specials offered in the bar room on Sundays and Thursdays. Wings, nachos, chili, chowder, quesadillas, potstickers, and more are among the snacks. On Monday nights during football games, a burger, a half-dozen wings, and a draft beer can be had for $25.