Connections: Potatoes and Dunes

I had been saying that I was going to Nova Scotia, but that turned out to be one of those typically American mistakes about Canadian geography that so horrify our neighbors to the north: Prince Edward Island, which we visited last week, sits above Nova Scotia and is a province of its own. 

Everyone refers to the island as P.E.I., and I did, too, despite my aversion to cutesy short takes, acronyms, and the like. We had been told Prince Edward Island is like the South Fork of 40 or 50 years ago, but based on a week’s evidence I disagree. P.E.I. is another country not only because — as in all of Canada — its signage and governance are bilingual, with written French and English everywhere, but because the people seem to share a disarming temperament. They’re easy-going, warm, and engagingly friendly!

Of course, I did find myself making comparisons. Like the East End, Prince Edward Island has a three-month resort season (although it’s now true that ours stretches to May and September), and many businesses there that cater to tourists close up, as many of ours do, after Labor Day. Also, we’re both into potatoes. Some 88,000 acres in P.E.I. are planted in spuds, I was told, providing one-quarter of all those grown in Canada. I told anyone who evinced even mild curiosity that eastern Long Island was once known for its potatoes, too, but that our fields these days mostly sprout McMansions. P.E.I. also grows wheat, barley, and canola. Lobster remains a common denominator; the P.E.I. lobster is a bit smaller, on average, than those that are still harvested by the boatload in the Gulf of Maine. And we feasted on mussels and Malpeque oysters.

In much of Canada, especially the west and north, aboriginal people are a powerful presence, but on P.E.I., as on Long Island, aboriginals’ presence isn’t very evident to visitors — in our case, the Montauketts, in theirs, the Mi’kmaq. Tourists on P.E.I. tend to be from Ontario or Nova Scotia, or from Japan, of all places. What draws droves in tour buses all the way from Tokyo? The timeless appeal of the “Anne of Green Gables” books, which schoolgirls everywhere clearly still adore.

Then there are the Acadians. As a child I learned about their plight in the 18th century from Longfellow’s “Evangeline,” but I didn’t know that others, who sought safety in the Canadian Maritimes, suffered expulsion and tragedy, too. We visited P.E.I.’s Acadian museum, on the west end of the province, which described what befell them, as well as their eventual return. Today, those of Acadian descent savor their own culture and support public schools where French is the first language.

As for the landscape, it is similar to what ours used to be — in that the classic P.E.I. vista is an open stretch of potato fields ending in beach-grass-covered dunes and ocean waves — but there are many very distinct differences: For starters, their soil is red (really red! there’s even a folk song about red dirt, and shops selling “dirt shirts” dyed with soil). Much of the province unfolds in gorgeous rolling hills dotted with cattle; we watched combines as they mowed hay, leaving behind picturesque rows of big, round hay rolls instead of haystacks. We visited a goat farm, and a mill making wool blankets. Ocean dunes and empty beaches stretch for uninterrupted miles on the north coast.

In addition to Acadian culture,  a musical throwback to the Scots and Irish who settled in P.E.I. certainly makes it very different from eastern Long Island. A ceilidh (pronounced KAY-lee) is basically what the Nova Scotians call a “kitchen party”: a good-humored musical evening. Ceilidhs are popular tourist attractions, and they seemed to occur every night in small community halls rather than pubs. 

The one we attended was led by a talented musician on accordion, piano, and guitar, and an Irish jokester and storyteller on harmonica and accordion. The audience sang as directed and clapped and stamped its feet with gusto. Two young women showed off their step-dancing prowess. A 50-50 raffle was introduced with a song and explanation that the money went to the women’s institute that ran the hall. A man from Ottawa won $90 Canadian.

Another surprising difference between P.E.I. and home is that the surf there, arriving on the beaches over multiple sandbars — and, coming down from the north over the Gulf of St. Lawrence without as broad a fetch — is too low and mild to attract surfers, who don’t seem to exist. Despite the warmth of the water, we saw none (and hardly any evidence of yoga chic).

Then there is Charlottetown, the capital — a town, really, rather than a city — which boasts old  buildings that have not been torn down, three bookstores, a used-comic-book store, and a candy store called Freak Lunchbox, which sells every imaginable sweet, from the familiar to the intentionally disgusting (to the delight of my grandchildren, and the disgust of grandma). Of course, there was also an “Anne of Green Gables” store and “Anne of Green Gables” chocolate shop on Queen Street, the main commercial thoroughfare.

At The Star, I have tended to disparage travelogues readers sometimes send us for publication, thinking I’d rather pay attention to the opinions of someone who isn’t “from away,” a term that is still used in P.E.I., as it still is, in some circles, here. Still, I really want to tell you about my trip to Prince Edward Island . . . and I will try to bite my tongue next time I scoff.