Galettes are rustic French open-topped pastries, usually made with fruits. Inspired by some reading I was doing on the food of Southwest France, where most of France's pumpkins are grown, I decided to try putting the two ideas together for something new to do with pumpkin or its many cousins (Hubbards, butternut, acorn, Turk's turban, or sweet dumpling [Delicata] squashes).
My invention is a savory pie, not a dessert, that makes a good vegetarian main dish or a lovely side dish to serve with turkey, roast pork, or ham.
Makes one 10-inch tart.
The Pastry:
2 cups pastry flour*
1/2 tsp. kosher salt
1/4 lb. cold unsweetened butter (1 stick)
1 egg yolk (reserve the white for glaze)
3 Tbsp. very cold water (or a bit more)
*Note: Pastry flour can easily be made by sifting together 2 lbs. cake flour with 13 ozs. plain unbleached flour. It makes a very superior short pastry.
Originally published Nov. 9, 2000
This can be made entirely by hand but it's quicker and more successful (because less handled) made in a food processor. Put the flour in the processor with the salt. Cut the butter into eight pieces and process in short pulses until it is the size of very small peas.
Mix the egg yolk and water together and quickly add it through the feed tube using several pulses. If the flour is very dry, you may need a bit more cold water.
When the dough starts to come together in just a few seconds remove it to a clean surface and press the dough into a cake about 11/2 inches thick. Wrap in plastic wrap and refrigerate until needed. Re-move about 15 minutes before rolling out the pastry to a 14-inch circle about 1/8 inch thick on a lightly floured surface.
I begin the rolling with the cake of dough in a plastic baggie, then transfer it to a floured board, in order to avoid incorporating too much flour.
The Filling
1 butternut squash, about 3 lbs.
Walnut or peanut oil
1 Tbsp. sweet butter
1 small (large egg size) onion, minced
1 tsp. coarse salt
1 1/2 tsp. ground cardamom
1/2 tsp. freshly grated nutmeg
1 Tbsp. ground dried wild mushrooms (optional)
1 tsp. fresh white pepper
4 ozs. heavy cream
1 cup Gruyere cheese, cut in 1/4 inch cubes
Preheat oven to 425 degrees F. Split the butternut vertically with a large heavy knife and a small rubber mallet. Steady the squash on a folded dish towel, place the knife along the center, and strike it with the rubber mallet until it is cut all the way through.
I suppose an electric knife might do a very good job of this if you have one. Or possibly a machete from the toolshed. Don't laugh: I brought one from South Florida, where it is an indispensable garden tool.
Place the squash, cut side down, on a well oiled sheet of foil lining a cookie sheet or something similar. Leave the seeds and pith in the cavity for extra flavor. Slide the pan into the center of the oven and roast for about 40 minutes, or until tender when pierced with a sharp fork. The sugars in the squash will caramelize slightly on the foil and it adds flavor.
When cool enough to handle, scoop out seeds and pith with a sharp-edge spoon, then peel off the outer leathery skin and discard. Chop up the squash and puree it in a food processor. Add the spices, seasonings, and cream. Remove the puree to a bowl and stir in the cheese.
Heat the oven to 425 degrees F.
Line a large baking sheet or a pizza pan with parchment paper. Nothing, but nothing, sticks to it. Fold the pastry in quarters and gently place the rolled-out pastry on the center of the pan. Mound the filling in the center, then bring up the edges of the pastry, pleating as you go, over the filling for about two inches to form a rough container for the filling. The center will be open. Glaze the pastry with the slightly beaten egg white.
Bake the galette in the center of the oven 15 minutes, reduce heat to 375 degrees, and continue baking until the crust is lightly browned, about 25 minutes longer. Let the galette cool about 10 minutes before cutting into wedges. Delicious hot or warm, never cold.
If you don't have time to make the pastry, the butternut puree may be baked in an oval gratin dish for about 25 or 30 minutes depending on the depth. But the galette presentation is immensely more impressive and this crust is exceptionally flaky and delicious. If there's any left over, the galette can be reheated in a 400-degree oven for about 10 minutes if it's been refrigerated. Microwaving will ruin the pastry.