In New Orleans, this delectation was called “La Mediatriece,” a peace offering to an enraged wife when her husband trundled in after an evening in the French Quarter. I have served this for a first course, but it is really more suitable to Sunday lunch or a late supper. Serves four.
2 small Italian “hero” loaves
1/2 stick melted butter
18 freshly opened oysters
Juice of half a lemon
1/2 cup heavy cream
Salt and pepper to taste (or a dash of Tabasco)
Preheat oven to 425 degrees.
Slice a lid off the top of each loaf. Hollow out the loaves, leaving a shell about a quarter-inch thick. Brush them and the lids with melted butter and toast in the oven to a light golden crispness. Meanwhile, drain the oysters and put them into a pan with the lemon juice, cream, and seasonings.
Cook over low heat until the oysters plump up and ruffle on the edges. This should only take about three or four minutes; if you overcook them, the oysters’ sea flavor will evaporate and the texture will be like bubble gum.
When the loaves are toasted, stuff them with the oysters (add a bit more hot cream if you like a juicier loaf), clap the lids on and rush them to the table. Each loaf serves two people, or you can use hard dinner rolls for individual helpings, but it’s more work. Serve with a dry white wine or beer, and a salad.