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In Season: Health Food for Beginners

Thu, 03/29/1973 - 10:50

To buy wheat germ, a useful food or food supplement, one need not be initiated into the secret rites of “health food” culture. It is (and probably always was) sold in normal supermarkets close by the candied breakfast puffs and cardboard pop-tarts.

Wheat germ is the innermost central kernel of wheat. In it are concentrated most of the nutrients: the B and E vitamins, iron, and protein for starters. Except in the newer whole grain breads, it is notable for its absence from food sold in supermarkets largely because of that “raison d’etre” of food packaging: shelf-life. It spoils. The oils in wheat germ can turn rancid rather quickly.

Starting back in 1874, the old-fashioned grist mill was phased out by the introduction of the rolling mill in the Midwestern flour-milling industry. The germ of the wheat found in stone-ground flours could not stand up to the heat generated by the rolling mills without spoiling.

Sold Separately

This factor, plus the dem and for super-refined white flours, led to the extraction of the germ from the wheat before it is milled, hence its elimination from most of the wheat we eat. Instead of being re stored to foods, it is packed and sold separately. Pick up a jar of it and reintroduce it into your family’s diet. A mere tablespoonful contains 10 percent of a child’s recommended daily allowance of protein. Wheat germ can be easily hidden in foods (sprinkle it on the candied breakfast yummies, mix it into peanut butter, tuna salad, cooked rice, etc.), used in place of other ingredients (to coat chicken for baking or frying or as a casserole topping instead of bread crumbs, in baking instead of nuts, in salads instead of croutons, etc.) or even enjoyed plain (there is a honey-toasted kind which is a fine breakfast cereal). You may be surprised to find your family actually likes it and that it is not necessary to sneak it into them.

Refrigerate

Since wheat germ is so perishable it must be refrigerated once it has been opened. This is as true of the toasted supermarket variety as the natural health-food store kind. The advantage to the latter is that it is less obtrusive in taste and texture and is therefore more versatile. Bread baked with wheat germ in it is automatic health food. Similarly, fancy party fare need not be completely frivolous. Lacy French cookies, served for tea or to accompany an elegant dessert, also benefit from the addition of wheat germ, as do the diners.

Fortified Florentines

1/4 cup dark corn syrup
1/2 cup butter (one stick)
1/3 cup light brown sugar
1/2 cup flour
1/2 cup wheat germ (any kind, unsweetened)
1 tsp. grated orange peel
1/2 cup golden raisins (sultanas)

Preheat oven to 325 degrees. In a saucepan, combine syrup, butter and sugar and bring to a boil. Remove from heat. Combine flour, wheat germ, and orange peel. Blend in syrup mixture and beat until smooth. Fold in raisins.

Drop scant teaspoonfuls onto a greased cookie sheet, placing them three inches apart (you will fit only 12 on a standard cookie sheet). Bake eight to ten minutes. Allow to cool a couple of minutes to stiffen slightly before removing carefully with a spatula. When completely cooled, place on absorbent paper for several minutes before storing or serving.

Yields 24-30 cookies.

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