This is one of the world's great peasant soups, the emblematic soup of Quebec, in fact. Despite this, with our normal maddening indifference to our 'friendly giant to the north,' Canada, there are no recipes to be found for this great soup in any American cookbook I've seen. I tracked it down through a friend in Montreal.
Yellow split peas are the authentic thing to use in this soup. The commoner green ones may be used but the taste, to say nothing of the color, is somewhat different.
The quantity is because it’s impractical to make a smaller amount and besides, who can know how many people will wind up at your house during the holidays. It freezes perfectly. Serves six amply.
1 lb. yellow (or green) split peas
1/4 lb. slab bacon, cubed, OR a precooked ham hock
2 Tbsp. bacon fat or olive oil
2 large onions, chopped
1 large carrot, peeled and diced finely
1 rib celery, chopped finely
2 bay leaves
1/2 tsp. dried thyme leaves
2 quarts water, approx.
Salt and freshly milled pepper to taste
1/4 cup fresh parsley, minced
Note: Yellow split peas can be found in some large supermarkets, or in health food stores or fancy food shops.
Turn the peas into a large basin and rinse them thoroughly, picking them over, although, unlike other dried legumes, they rarely contain impurities or stones. Drain off water several times, then set them aside and prepare the soup base, which takes longer to cook than peas. This soup freezes well, and reheating is an advantage.
Try out the bacon slowly until the fat begins to run, then add enough oil to make up two tablespoons. If using the ham shank, put bacon fat or salad oil into a deep, heavy pot and saute the onions, carrot, and celery until soft but not brown. Add all remaining ingredients except the peas, salt, pepper, and parsley.
Cook until the ham is falling from the bone, remove the shank and cut the meat into tiny pieces. Return these and the bone to the pot with the split peas. Cook until the peas have almost disintegrated, about 45 minutes. This, and all dried legume soups, scorch easily, so use a “Flame Tamer” and stir fairly often to avoid having the peas settle on the bottom where they will most assuredly burn. Non-stick pots are ideal for these thick soups.
Add more hot water if the soup gets too thick. When the soup is finished cooking, taste and add salt and pepper. The soup should have a sprightly seasoning. For ideal flavoring, refrigerate it overnight, then slowly reheat it and serve sprinkled with parsley. Triangles of crisply fried bread make a perfect counterpoint to the creamy soup. This is not only one of the earth’s finest soups, it is one of the cheapest.
