East End Eats: New, Newer, and Newest in the Restaurant Scene

By the time you read this column, some of the information contained herein will be obsolete. There will be additions, perhaps some corrections, maybe even subtractions. But as of mid-late May, this is the scoop on the new, newer, and newest restaurants on the South Fork.

In the category of “Wait, what? I’m confused,” there is Blue Mar and Bel Mare. If your friends say, “Meet us at Terrance Brennan’s new place for a caviar on buttered toast orgy,” they mean Blue Mar Hamptons in Southampton. I am a huge admirer of this gentleman, who opened Picholine and Artisanal in the city. This place will no doubt be very good and perhaps be very expensive. They will have Dover sole and “a robust selection of rosé.” Natch. I believe it is replacing the short-lived Maison Vivienne.

Bel Mare is going into the Michael’s restaurant space at Maidstone Park in Springs. The interior will be spruced up and the executive chef Luigi Del Conte will be serving some classic Italian dishes like penne à la vodka, veal Luigi, and shrimp and scallop Sambuca. He has his own line of sauces, which are sold at various markets including Whole Foods. I’m more interested in asking Chef Luigi about his years cooking at Mar-a-Lago.

Bostwick’s, which was on the water on Gann Road for 15 years (1995 to 2009) and is now located on Pantigo Road, will be returning to Gann Road and will be opening in early June. The Bostwick’s Chowder House on Pantigo will remain, and the Bostwick’s redux will be called Bostwick’s on the Harbor. I may or may not have gotten a sneak peak at the new menu, which will be offering somewhat healthier options and less fried fare.

In the category of “remind me to avoid that section of Napeague stretch this summer” is the opening of Morty’s Oyster Stand at the old Cyril’s. The partners, Jeremy Morton, Charles Seich, and Jack Luber, have brought on the celebrity chef Sam Talbott, he of the blueberry popcorn salad at Surf Lodge. They promise “high quality and sustainable seafood” and are bringing back the famously sweet and deadly B.B.C., Bailey’s Banana Colada. The menu thus far looks delicious: fried Ipswich clams with chili aioli, grilled local squid with zucchini, macadamia nut pesto, and pineapple serrano vinegar, and fried chicken with spicy honey and celeriac slaw.

In the mystery category, people are wondering what will become of the lovely spaces that were Red Bar and Little Red in Southampton. And when will Montauk Circle Burger open? What is Rosie’s: A Love of Fare in Amagansett going to serve?

People in Sag Harbor can look forward to the opening of K Pasa, at the old La Superica location. This space has been taken over by the folks of Sen, Jeff Resnick, Jesse Matsuoka, and Tora Matsuoka. They will be offering “beach street food with Latin influences.” At the old Bay Burger location, the chef and restaurateur Edward McFarland is opening another branch of his city restaurant Ed’s Lobster Bar. He intends to stay open most of the year, serving his signature lobster rolls, plenty of raw bar items, fried oysters, and spicy charred broccoli.

Where EMP Summerhouse spent two seasons, there will be yet another Upper East Side restaurant, Paola’s. Any place that serves fried chicken livers, cacio e pepe, and trofie Genovesi is alright with me. Southampton will also have T Bar, a steak restaurant and lounge situation at the old Jue Lan location on Elm Street. Think black angus and other bovine offerings.

I’ve been saving the best for last because these two places have been in the works for a while and involve local, seasoned professionals who don’t just talk the talk. If I hear “sustainable local seafood” or “we will build relationships with local farmers” one more time from a restaurant that is serving shrimp, tilapia, salmon, hot house tomatoes, and has a Sysco delivery truck in their parking lot, I’m just going to have a conniption fit! Stop paying lip service to our community.

Coche Comedor will be the fifth restaurant within the Honest Man restaurant group and the ongoing renovation of the diner next to La Fondita in Amagansett has been fascinating to watch. The name translates to “dining car” and the place has been transformed with a graffiti wall, tables painted by local artists, cool tile floors, leather booths, and more. Where La Fondita serves “street food,” Coche Comedor will serve regional Mexican cuisine utilizing local products. The executive chef Joseph Realmuto told me “it’s a fun cuisine and I love the diversity of it. Since we just opened it’s been a fun party in the dining room. People come in and order small plates. It’s a festive atmosphere.” He is particularly excited about the three complex mole sauces they are preparing, the ceviches, and the chicken and ducks cooked in the wood-burning rotisserie oven. The Honest Man team is even growing special peppers, tomatillos, epazote, and more in the garden behind Nick and Toni’s to serve at Coche Comedor. 

Another beaut will be Showfish at Gurney’s Star Island Resort and Marina. The whole Gurney’s shebang has undergone major renovations and now the chef Jeremy Blutstein is taking over at Showfish and Il Forno. Chef Blutstein, he of the perpetually Instagrammable food, Wu Tang Clan love, and credit to all his farmer and fisher folks, told me: “All the food and beverage venues here at the new Gurney’s Star Island Resort and Marina will be rocking localism harder and faster than anyone thought possible. The general public and our in-house guests will have access to dining with the best the East End has to offer from the land and sea.” Amen, brother.

Steve Haweeli and Nicole Castillo of WordHampton, the local P.R. company that represents a good number of the better restaurants out here, both offered their thoughts on the upcoming summer season. Steve said: “As long as it doesn’t rain every holiday weekend, it should be a solid year for restaurants and restaurant goers. There are plenty of new restaurants to try from Montauk to Southampton.” Nicole is particularly excited about Bostwick’s returning to her ’hood. “I’m so looking forward to dining outside, dining with a view!”

So that’s it for today. Stay tuned for news on Carissa’s Bakery opening another branch on Pantigo Road, the Princess Diner getting a midcentury makeover and new name from the folks formerly of Bay Kitchen Bar, and the groovy soul food truck called the Pike at the Open Minded Organics stand in Bridgehampton. How do blackened scallops, fried chicken po’ boys, and striped bass with roasted asparagus sound?

From the tried and true to the trendy and new, this summer is going to be a wonderful and tasty season.