Though it feels like a lifetime ago (like everything pre-Covid) it was actually in 2017 that Southampton's Princess Diner disintegrated into scandal and infamy. A wage-withholding scheme made national news, ending with indictments, heavy fines, and finally, jail time for one of its owners.
Since then, except for a brief pop-up restaurant, the space has sat bleak and empty, like an old bruise that won't heal. Worse, it was positioned at a highly-visible location on Route 27, so that nearly everyone coming and going from the South Fork was forced to recall its sad demise.
Hopefully now, half a decade later, the bad mojo has finally passed. The owners of Napeague's Lobster Roll sure think so, having recently taken over the abandoned space for a second branch of their legendary brand.
Besides the menu, the new Southampton Lobster Roll seems a stark contrast from its original. "Lunch," as it is affectionately known, opened in Amagansett in 1965, and despite a minor expansion and a few nips and tucks, it hasn't changed much. Its menu was simple enough, but it had charm to burn. This seafood shack by the ocean was so quintessentially "Hamptons" in fact, it became a permanent icon of the East End aesthetic. Most recently it was featured in the successful cable series "The Affair," which gave Lunch a considerable jolt of exposure and popularity.
The Southampton Lobster Roll, however, is no picturesque shack nestled in the dunes. The old deco-design of the Princess's facade remains virtually intact except for a large sign outside that says "Lunch." So little has changed, in fact, one could drive by utterly oblivious to the new ownership.
Inside, however, there's been an overhaul. While the layout is much the same since the diner days -- booths in front, tables toward the rear, and a large counter-space with stools -- everything seems spiffy and new, especially the steel-rimmed bar stools so shiny you could see your reflection. Behind the counter the giant coffee urns and mis-en-place are gone, replaced by a bar that includes wine, beer taps, and a full array of cocktails.
As for the food, all the old hits are here. This begins, of course, with the lobster roll. The classic is an exact replica of its original, the meat tossed with homemade mayonnaise and crunchy celery and served on a split bun. The hot lobster roll is here as well, all claws and knuckle meat served with drawn butter. So too, the lobster sliders -- all these options served with the Lobster Roll's very good, if slightly over-sauced, coleslaw.
For starters, there's classic raw seafood, including local clams or oysters, and, of course, shrimp cocktail. A table favorite was the seafood nachos, which was a large plate of chips with a seafood chili -- essentially spiced beans and shrimp -- along with pico de gallo and sour cream. Popcorn shrimp were good too, lightly fried and fresh, coming with both cocktail and tartar sauce.
The Manhattan clam chowder is described on the menu as "loaded" with clams, shrimp, scallops and cod. It was not, but was still very good, with a uniquely tangy tomato broth.
For main courses, a pound-and-a-quarter lobster was split and steamed to perfection, the meat tender and noticeably sweet. (For those who like the roe or tomalley, you must ask that they not be removed.) We realized too late that our seafood combination was lacking the advertised scallops, but the flounder and shrimp were fresh and flavorful, served scampi-style in a small casserole dish, and with what some (though not us) might call an excess of butter.
For vegans there's a "plant-based," section, the most successful of which is a Dr. Praeger's veggie burger, served with a honey mustard, which compliments a veggie patty much better than ketchup. Smartly, everything served on a bun has a gluten free option for a (slightly petty) $1 upcharge.
For dessert, there is ice cream or a selection over-sized homemade cupcakes. We skipped the ice cream and went straight to the cakes, knocked out by the moistness and silky buttercream frosting.
As for pricing, this Southampton outpost is slightly less expensive than Amagansett. But cost-conscious diners may want to inquire on anything listed as "market." Lobster prices will wax and wane and you can be taken by surprise. Our lobster rolls came in north of $30, with our steamed lobster landing in the mid-40s. One of those great cupcakes will run you $7. The days of running into the diner for a cheap lunch after a long drive are over. A party of four can hit $200 here without breaking a sweat.
You can be sure, however, that the food will be exactly what it should be. While not wildly ambitious, the Southampton Lobster Roll has done a great job of preserving the solid quality and freshness of its original. The rub, it seems, is whether diners will find the new atmosphere satisfying. It is one thing, after all, to bite into a $33 lobster roll in flip-flops with the sound of waves roiling in the distance. It's quite another when the view is the slow dirge of standstill traffic.
Does it matter that the aesthetic in Southampton is utterly incongruous with the Lobster Roll's food and branding? Or will its heavily-trafficked location be the very thing that makes it fireproof?
To be continued...
