Food

    I know very little about food and wine pairing but am an eager student. I appreciate meals moistened with wine chosen by a friend in the know. But I also agree with Richard Olney’s philosophy that “it is a mistake to freeze such a variable and seductive landscape with rigid rules.”

    The Lucy’s Whey cheese shop has shut its doors on North Main Street in East Hampton, where it was based for six years, but plans to relocate in East Hampton by late spring. In New York City, where there is a Lucy’s Whey shop at the Chelsea Market, another cheese store, with a cafe, will be opening in a few weeks on the Upper East Side, at Lexington Avenue near 93rd Street.

Fall Changes

   With the exception of Swedish meatballs and gravadlax, most Americans, no matter how culinarily sophisticated, have a limited knowledge of Swedish food.

   A lot of our ignorance is due to a concept of humility that informs the Swedish temperament called janteelagen, according to Andrew Reice, an American who lives in Sweden and mounted Swedish Culininary Summer, a marketing campaign to introduce South Forkers to both Swedish cuisine and culture this summer. “It’s hard to promote yourself when you’re not supposed to brag,” he said.

Here Comes Oktoberfest

    The annual Oktoberfest at Rowdy Hall in East Hampton begins on Saturday with a 3 to 5 p.m. celebration featuring a re-creation of a German beer garden, with outdoor picnic tables and communal dining tables in the dining room. There will be Bavarian music outdoors from 3 to 5, and a live broadcast by WEHM radio, along with German bar snacks such as knockwurst, brat­wurst, and bockwurst. Oktoberfest beer specials will be served in a commemorative pilsner glass for $8, with refills for $4, and an Oktoberfest beer tasting flight will be offered for $10.

    I have now had my little camp at Lazy Point for five years. Five years, long enough for the clams in my secret clam bed to mature and become sustenance. Long enough for me to learn what I need and don’t need to make time spent out there worthwhile, restorative, contemplative.

    With Labor Day now past, restaurants have begun to adjust their hours for the quieter season. In East Hampton Village, the Blue Parrot is now open Thursday for dinner starting at 5 p.m., and on Friday and Saturday for lunch and dinner beginning at noon. There are daily happy hour specials.

    Smokin’ Wolf, the barbecue takeout spot on Pantigo Road in East Hampton, has new hours as well. It is open Sunday to Thursday from 11 a.m. to 8 p.m., and on Friday and Saturday from 11 a.m. to 9 p.m.

   W­hy pickle, can, and preserve? The best reason is because of where we live. The bounty of fruits and vegetables available to us makes the effort worthwhile. It is also satisfying and economical. And the little jars of what you have made make swell gifts.

    Fall brings new options for foodies. Rowdy Hall in East Hampton will offer a weekly dinner and movie special beginning on Sunday. With the purchase of the nightly special entree, patrons will get a ticket to the East Hampton Cinema with their dinners for a combined price of $20.

    The special is available Sunday through Thursday. Featured entrees, for which a vegetarian dish may be substituted, include meatloaf on Sunday, burgers on Monday, Tuesday, and Wednesday, and moules frites on Thursday.

Football Season Fare

   In her native Uruguay, Luisa Masliah, who is called Luchi, earned a degree in clinical psychology. But her first business, started with friends right after college, was a gourmet takeout shop called Gula Gula.

    In its literal translation to English, the Spanish term “means more like gluttony,” she explained during a recent interview in East Hampton, but also refers to eating with enjoyment, or “comer con gusto.”

    The summer vacation season may be ending, but local restaurateurs continue to bring specials to the table.

    At The Bell & Anchor in Noyac, customers may choose either a two-course or three-course prix fixe, for $30 or $35. Both are offered all night from Sunday through Thursday, and on Friday and Saturday from 5:30 to 6:30 p.m.

    Among the choices are such appetizers as chowder, served with salad, and brandade, served with potatoes and garlic.

Pan-Seared Swordfsh With Black Olives and Cherry Tomatoes

    This recipe is just a guideline, feel free to play with it.

Serves four.

1 lb. thick-sliced swordfish, belly is good

1 cup cherry tomatoes, halved

1/2 cup pitted and chopped kalamata olives

1/2 cup each chopped fresh basil and parsley

1 lemon, 1/2 cut into thin rings and seeded, the other half for squeezing juice at end of cooking

2 Tbsp. olive oil

Salt and pepper to taste

    Swordfish are found around the world in tropical, temperate, and sometimes cold waters of the Atlantic, Indian, and Pacific Oceans. North Atlantic swordfish annually migrate thousands of miles along the eastern seaboard of the United States and Canada. They are one of the fastest and largest predators in the ocean, capable of swimming up to 50 miles per hour, thanks to their beautifully streamlined bodies.

   So, you’ve always wanted to make your fortune replicating Aunt Sally’s rhubarb shortcake. But the board of health might not okay your kitchen, given the dogs that sleep in the corners and the cats that trespass on counters. Due to the farm-to-table movement and the culinary artisans it has bred, a clutch of kitchens have sprouted up in East Hampton Town to provide a springboard for food entrepreneurs.

   Don’t bother asking the chef Tom Colicchio to name a dish that’s a standard crowd pleaser at home. As he has often said, his last meal would be his mother’s gravy — which, for an Italian from New Jersey, is tomatoes, meatballs, and braciole over macaroni, otherwise known as pasta. But when it comes to dinner with his wife and kids, Mr. Colicchio rarely makes the same thing twice. “There’s nothing favorite. It changes from time to time. I don’t like to repeat myself.”

   The highlight of Quail Hill’s At the Common Table on Saturday, the 10th such benefit for the community-supported farm overseen by the Peconic Land Trust, was dinner served in the orchard at a long table for 165, set beautifully with flowers, candles, and Mason jars of pickles — dilly beans, cucumber spears, garlic scapes — preserved from the Amagansett farm’s bounty.

Pie Making

    Farm stand shoppers enjoying luscious late-summer fruits and interested in learning about making pies with them will have an opportunity next Thursday, when Leslie Dumont, a onetime pie-crust purveyor, offers a class in her Amagansett kitchen. Ms. Dumont’s Proud to be Flaky Pie School will present a 6 to 9:30 p.m. session on summer fruit pie and autumn apple tart. Participants, limited to four, will master piecrust, she promises, and create a double-crust lattice fruit pie as well as a rustic fruit tart.

    Tickets are on sale for Harvest East End, a celebration of 40 years of winemaking on Long Island’s East End, to be held at the McCall Vineyard and Ranch in Cutchogue on Aug. 24. The event will include a tasting from 7 to 9:30 p.m. of regional winemakers’ current releases and barrel samples of wines yet to be released, along with foods from local farmers, fishermen, and other food artisans, prepared by a team of local chefs.

This year, while the corn is excellent, I have yet to try an outstanding tomato. Once again, the weather has not been helpful to local tomato crops, nor has the reappearance of tomato blight.

The Dory

185 North Ferry Road

Shelter Island

749-4300

Lunch and dinner daily

    Taking the short ferry ride over to Shelter Island is always a pleasant experience. Although you are only “traveling” for about five minutes, you really feel like you’ve gone somewhere. Somewhere quiet and charming and low key. A group of us took this little trip recently to try the Dory restaurant on North Ferry Road. You’ve seen the building, a pretty brick red structure with a dory on top.

    The Great Food Truck Derby will bring a caravan of mobile food vendors to the Hayground School tomorrow afternoon from 4 to 7. Tickets are $60 for adults and $20 for children and include drinks as well as one serving from every food truck, with at least 20 expected to be on site. They can be ordered at the Web site of the event sponsor, EdibleManhattan.com.

A Quarter Century

   Simply Sublime on Springs-Fireplace Road in East Hampton has just celebrated its first year in business, with edible offerings that range from cookies to kombucha and customers that range from construction workers to yoginis on a cleanse.

    “I like coming to work and helping the community,” said Alison Burke, who owns the cafe with her sister, Juliette Logie. Their original concept was to open a coffee bar, but it became much more.

    Midweek brings Weiner Wednesdays to Smokin’ Wolf BBQ on Pantigo Road in East Hampton. A $10 special includes two hot dogs, fries, and a drink.

Beer Tastings

    The Southampton Publick House will host a free beer tasting on Saturday at the Southampton Center on Job’s Lane in Southampton, before an indoor screening of “Drinking Buddies.” The tasting begins at 6 p.m. The movie, a comedy about two co-workers at a craft brewery, which was shown at the 2013 SXSW Film Festival, starts at 7:30.

    I’m not sure which was more exciting, attending the L.V.I.S. Fair on Saturday or being asked to work at the fair. At the cakes, cookies, jams, and jellies booth, no less! I have attended this fair almost every single year of my life, many times with my grandpa, then with my son. The Mystery Booth, cookbooks, and Rosita Medler’s iconic beach plum jelly have always been my priorities. I arrive at 10 on the dot and plot my strategy like General MacArthur. One year I scored a brand new fishing rod for $20. Another year, a first edition James Beard cookbook.

I remember a man, slicked-back hair, wire-rimmed glasses. He wore ironed blue button-down shirts with white collars and cuffs and a pink tie, pressed slacks, shining black shoes. He often carried a briefcase and he always kept his hand on his mother’s elbow, gently guiding her into her seat at their usual table in my section for their usual Thursday night dinner

Chefs Dinner at Hayground

    This weekend brings another annual Chefs Dinner to the Hayground School, a benefit for the school’s culinary center, Jeff’s Kitchen, and for the Jeff Salaway Scholarship Fund, both in memory of a school founder and restaurateur.

   John Domanic and Marsha LaTessa don’t have too many years of farming experience under their belts, but by starting small with a farm stand and leased farmland on Pantigo Road just west of East Hampton Town Hall, they think they’ve got a pretty good shot at it.

A Taste of Montauk

    Locally made beer and wine will be served along with fare from a number of Montauk restaurants on Sunday at “A Taste of Montauk,” a Montauk Chamber of Commerce event to be held at the 360 East restaurant at Montauk Downs from 6 to 9 p.m. Tickets are $55 in advance ($65 at the door) and can be reserved online at montaukchamber. com. Sponsors, besides 360 East, include Gurney’s Inn and the Bridgehampton National Bank. 

Vegan Potluck

    There are certain foods that come into our lives and we wonder how we ever lived without them. All of a sudden everyone is talking about them, serving them, altering them, wrecking them, and serving them again. Fad foods and food trends, they’re like child stars. We love them briefly, then we just want them to go away or grow up. This is a completely subjective topic, and I would like to defend some of these foods and rip a few others to shreds.

Boisterous, done-up middle-age men wearing collared shirts and women in flowing maxi dresses dripping with bling. Six of them. For the most part all drinking vodka. Then this guy on the end of the table wearing flip-flops, jeans, and a T-shirt, asks for a beer.

   Montauk’s first Polynesian tiki bar opened in June and the people — locals, vacationers, fishermen, and even kids — have found it. Lynn’s Hula Hut, owned by Lynn Calvo, is located in a sandy “island” in the Montauk Marine Basin’s parking area.

    Before opening the Hut, Ms. Calvo was hired to serve Polynesian-style drinks at South Fork parties from her small pickup truck, which has fringed palapa leaves (dried palm leaves) hanging from its bed.