“Think of the 2004 cellphone — our code was designed for that cellphone,” Jeremy Samuelson, director of the East Hampton Town Planning Department, told the town board in urging it to adopt a brand-new wireless master plan. “The pandemic alone taught us the extent to which we’re reliant upon these technologies, but our infrastructure wasn’t matching it. We had to take a cultural leap and get to a place where we were saying, ‘This actually is critical infrastructure.’ ”